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same clutch again, I like it :)

No point going nismo twin plate for a car making about 350kW I reckon.. money better spent elsewhere. I got to stop letting people borrow my car, probably why it's lead to premature death of clutch.

same clutch again, I like it :)

No point going nismo twin plate for a car making about 350kW I reckon.. money better spent elsewhere. I got to stop letting people borrow my car, probably why it's lead to premature death of clutch.

They must be total muppets to kill it in such a small amount of time.

My thing; been in the car for almost 9 years, over 300 7000 RPM plus launches, holding 475 kw. No rebuild, no nothing. Feels the same as a brand new one which i drove last night. Pays for itself really.

  • Like 1

Well other guys here have had great success with the clutch, so either mine is faulty OR my mates really just wore down the clutch driving it.

I'll find out next week, determined to pull it out, inspect it and I'll also do the turbo next week too.. I have all the lines/bolts/nuts/intake/gate ready to go.. just need to fab up a dump & screamer pipe..

Oh yeah, the 2-way Nismo is in too :)

Iv got a Jim berry full Monty best clutch ever in my opinion great to drive with and can handle as much power you want to through at it realisticly I got mine for $1000 off here and installed it myself and got the slave reco'd and braided line for $100ish

^ yeah that was going to be my first option (a few years ago), then someone showed me exploding JB clutches and smashed up bell housings. Then I went for NPC :)

Everyone has been having great luck with them, except mine.

  • 2 weeks later...
^ yeah that was going to be my first option (a few years ago), then someone showed me exploding JB clutches and smashed up bell housings. Then I went for NPC :)

Everyone has been having great luck with them, except mine.

Is there a coolant leak or oil leak into the clutch area at all? Seems odd your having these troubles. My recon NPC clutch feels really good and just as bitey as always

Is there a coolant leak or oil leak into the clutch area at all? Seems odd your having these troubles. My recon NPC clutch feels really good and just as bitey as always

** weird thought I replied to this thread on that tapatalk app... clearly not

There are no coolant leaks or oil leaks around the clutch area, besides the typical RB cam over leak. I was supposed to pull out the clutch during the break but was hungover everyday so never got around to it lol

What people done realise is that there is very little available meat on the clutch that wears. The difference between New and worn is about 0.8 to 1mm. So any driving that slips the clutch wears it at a rapid rate. This includes people who can't use a clutch Properly and slip off the lights etc.

Pull it out and measure the wear. Might be able to get away with just replacing the disk

  • 2 months later...

UPDATE:

Pulled off the box (well I paid a pro this time, was lazy but glad I did).. turns out my NPC clutch looked as good as it did the day I put it on. We measured the disc it was about 0.04mm worn (which is nothing), both disc & pressure plate were in top notch. Had the pressure plate tested and the clamp was actually 1870 kg..

So why was it slipping you ask?

The previous owner had installed the incorrect bearing carrier so when the box was placed back onto the motor essentially the clutch was being ridden all day long ever so slightly.

So whilst the box was off, Scott from Western Clutch cleaned and inspected all my parts.. turns out ALSO my clutch fork was fractured.. lucky it never broke because that wouldn't have been fun.

Executive Decision Time

Since everything was off & being sorted, I told Scott I had issues going into gear on the track when I was in super dooper high RPM. He mentioned that the plates Doug used were heavy and when you press the clutch pedal to change gears, the inertia of the disc keeps the box spinning and hence it crunches when you select a new gear.. I bit the bullet and changed to a lighter custom carbotic plate.

At the same time, Scott modified my pressure plate, machined it and machined a step onto my fly wheel. He also replaced my bearing, bearing carrier (new), clutch fork (new) & spigot bush.

By the end of it, I now have a clutch that feels as light as a Yaris clutch (I'm not kidding either) with a clamp of 1700kg and no more crunching at high rpm shifts.

Sometimes it's actually worth paying a professional than doing it yourself.

Cheers & big thank you to Scott, his dad & team at Western Clutch at St Mary's :yes:

Now, anyone want to buy a 10" NPC Carbotic clutch disc that's nearly new? under 14 000 km old (3 track days, 1 skid day, and at the time car only had 200kW) :woot:

  • 1 year later...

Sorry for bringing up an old thread! But am looking at purchasing a clutch for my r34gtt. Plan to make about 350rwk.. just wondering if the npc 10" hd carbotic is still the recommended choice for handling street/few track days a year and launches ect.

Cheers guys

NPC can probably answer that question for you. Honestly, they are not just trying to sell as many clutches as they can, they will help you choose the right one for your application.

It should be fine. Go the Billet flywheel as well as it directs a bit of air through the clutch as it spins. The main killer of these clutches is excessive heat, so as long as you arent riding the shit out of it, you shouldnt have an issue.

Mine is street driven and taken to the drags once in a while, my clutch was fine last time it was out of the car, no signs of any problems at all. I got it rebuilt as a preventative thing, but I dont think it was necessary at all. Had an NPC clutch for probably 6 years now.

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