Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

So getting dicked around by people so selling it again (not so much here)

2x 30m rolls of window tint.

One is 35% tint 1.5m x 30m

The other is 15% Tint 1.5m x 30m

$200 it bought together or $150 each separately.

post-100668-13779110925229_thumb.jpg

1997 WRX

121,000kms

1.5 way diff

Apexi and pedders lowered shocks

Hot dog exhaust

Turbo smart BOV

Turbo timer

3x HDI electric guages

Running stock boost

Sound system

Comes with BBS style 18" wheels and a set of stock wheels

Comes with 3-12 months rego depending on sale price

Best daily you can have while having fun on a cheap level.

$6500 or more with 12 months rego

post-100668-0-65215800-1378259943_thumb.jpg

post-100668-0-24129300-1378259954_thumb.jpg

post-100668-0-39179000-1378259961_thumb.jpg

post-100668-0-99027500-1378259970_thumb.jpg

Bren, managed to kill my hazards button over the weekend. Any chance you have one?

hey mate... not sure if you're still after a hazard switch.. i have a couple at home.. only the bulbs in them don't work.. only drama..

PM me if you are interested..

cheers.

Swap: I want to swap my s1 1993 gtst model for a series 2 stock gtst, nothing wrong with my car, it has full cream leather interior as well as cream leather dash, engine is at 96'000 genuine, amg rims, catback, aftermarket intercooler and radiator, looking to see if anyone has a series 2 stock they would trade!

Hi guys, doing a bit of a garage sale to clean out my shed a bit, got some parts leftover from old projects. Parts are located Southside ACT, I'm best contacted by SMS on 0404 303 954, I'm not very frequent on here but I try and check my PMs every so often. More pics available, just give me a buzz. Prices are pickup, happy to post at buyers expense, or deliver for a fee.

RB20/25/30 Engine parts:
- RB20DET silvertop forward facing plenum, deletes idle motor, factory cut n shut style, doesn't come with factory TB or sensors or anything $150
- Plazmaman FF Plenum, to suit RB30, as new unused condition. Comes with cold side cooler pipes, hoses and clamps, to suit XF TB, I paid $1160 new, after $800
- 6x VLT Injectors, 260cc, $150
- Various RB30E Injectors, $5 each
- RB25DET S2 CAS, ignitor, coilpack loom, $50 each

Pics of RB20 plenum:
2dm5kqf.jpg
33xg700.jpg

Thanks guys,

James

hey guys ive still go a few things left over from when i stripped my 33.

hubs $250

intake manifold $150

control arms $50-70

passenger door missing window reg $100

clutch brake pedal plus master cylinders $200

cas $100

tail lights $130

most interior panels

jjr 3" stainless steel cat back exhaust $250

Edited by dd33

hi all i have allo of stuff lying around

serires 1 rb25det loom

intake manifold /turbo intakes

cam angle sensor

cam gaskets with half moon aswell

new water pumo thermo stat

timming belt

many vacum hoses heater hoses and radiator pipes

r32 power steer pump

33 engine mounts

and other hose clamps and shit like that

0431434808

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...