Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i have a 33gtr and i want to drill some surge holes in my turbo ,,,,,its a t88-34d mostly want it done for the sound it will make can u guys please help

Just get a drill out mate, space them so you can fit around 8 holes in if you want great sound.

That's crap Nismoid....

.......you need at least 10 if you want the sweet sound.

Lol.

Anyway Sam, the holes aren't drilled right through, they go down to a slot which has to be machined in on a lathe, at the height of the lower compressor blades. Perhaps Hypergear could get the slot and holes machined for you? Or can you use a gt35 front and bore it out? I've got a chinese .7 surge ported one here you can buy cheap.

What it will do for performance is anyones guess, do you have surge at the moment you're trying to get rid of or is it purely for the noise? Perhaps a folded gum leaf in front of the compressor would work well? :P

riiiight, so u have tried and proven this then ?

It's a well proven fact that surge slots SLIGHTLY increase lag, they are used on turbos with compressors that flow a lot relative to the turbine side as they are at a higher risk of surge than other turbos. You can't just drill holes in your turbo and expect it to work just like surge slots, it simply won't!

Are you 100% sure you know exactly what surge is and that your turbo is actually surging? If it is the easiest fix (albeit not ideal) is to make it slightly lazier coming onto boost.

I've tested it person that anti surge holes would reduce power to boost ratio and increase lag. I wouldn't run the anti surging setup unless it is surging, and the last thing I had to do to overcome this problem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...