Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

300kw-320rwkw easy??? spent about 25k on performance parts an labour to get 300kw atw. Prob cheaper if u find a happy dyno or dont tie the car down real tight to allow it to ride up, from wot i've been told it can make the exact same dyno read about 50-80hp different, depending on how u strap it down. As for the longivity of an engine's life (built or unopened) people usually only seem to quote a certain amount of years/months which isnt really informative, amount of track time, km since rebuilt, %of time driving the car spirited (or over 5-6k rpm) would be more informaitive. as a car that only does 3000km a year an 1 track day, an gets babied, is a lot different to a car that does 20,000km a year a 4 or 5 trackdays a year an gets thrashed every time it gets drivin.

I'll point at Simon and leave it at that ;)

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

300kw-320rwkw easy??? spent about 25k on performance parts an labour to get 300kw atw. Prob cheaper if u find a happy dyno or dont tie the car down real tight to allow it to ride up, from wot i've been told it can make the exact same dyno read about 50-80hp different, depending on how u strap it down. As for the longivity of an engine's life (built or unopened) people usually only seem to quote a certain amount of years/months which isnt really informative, amount of track time, km since rebuilt, %of time driving the car spirited (or over 5-6k rpm) would be more informaitive. as a car that only does 3000km a year an 1 track day, an gets babied, is a lot different to a car that does 20,000km a year a 4 or 5 trackdays a year an gets thrashed every time it gets drivin.

300kw-320rwkw easy??? spent about 25k on performance parts an labour to get 300kw atw. Prob cheaper if u find a happy dyno or dont tie the car down real tight to allow it to ride up, from wot i've been told it can make the exact same dyno read about 50-80hp different, depending on how u strap it down. As for the longivity of an engine's life (built or unopened) people usually only seem to quote a certain amount of years/months which isnt really informative, amount of track time, km since rebuilt, %of time driving the car spirited (or over 5-6k rpm) would be more informaitive. as a car that only does 3000km a year an 1 track day, an gets babied, is a lot different to a car that does 20,000km a year a 4 or 5 trackdays a year an gets thrashed every time it gets drivin.

Give me 25k and ill build you a 500kw+ engine lol, also you'd be lucky to gain 15hp by letting it ride on the top of the rollers, easier to put the air temp sensor in hot water and gain 30kw =)

Give me 25k and ill build you a 500kw+ engine lol, also you'd be lucky to gain 15hp by letting it ride on the top of the rollers, easier to put the air temp sensor in hot water and gain 30kw =)

With warranty? Wheres your shop, I want this 25k 500kw motor

I'd say VQ35HR, then TT (with 2 x 2860).

It will take 50kg out of the front of the car, have more power and torque and last longer. But you'll have to build it first.

I don't see much between a Neo and a RB26 for power/longevity. I'd take a stock NEO for the money with GT30 (0.86) ~280rwkw easy. Once you get over 200rwkw/tonne you're getting into serious grip/chassis issues.

what chassis issues would be ran into? for example a gts4 with a rb26 making 350 atw

The fact that he can run a very reliable and safe 330rwkw+ all day every day with nothing but injectors, fuel pump, exhaust, computer and a set of turbos or a single on it where as the Neo would be a ticking time bomb at those power levels on an unopened motor..

so we're clear here , what do you think the big difference is between the two internally , apart from the piston itself? .

If i were going to build an engine from scratch , i would start with a 'rips' 3 litre bottom end , and put a 26 head on it .

But i have to ask, do you have a car to put it in? , if the answer is no , don't bother with anything engine wise until you have one, there's no point having 400rwk if the rest of the car is dead stock , there is no way you would be able to use the power anywhere . If you want to spend your money wisely , put it in the bank , leave it there until you can legally drive the car you want to . If you still want the same car then , there will always be a few for sale somewhere , you may be lucky and find one with all the hard work already done.

what about a 300zx motor forged with heavy porting and a couple of gt28's bolted on with 25psi with E85, big cams etc...

or an ls1 with twin turbo and supercharger :)

Edited by SliverS2

what chassis issues would be ran into? for example a gts4 with a rb26 making 350 atw

http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/2396/team-america-world-time-attack--ark-designs-bnr32-skyline-gt-r-intro-part-1.aspx

3 parts, multiple pages each.

This car has nothing to do with me. But there has been VQ put into r-chassis before. A friend is putting a VQ30DET into an S15 at the moment (the parts are pretty cheap for the HP).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...