Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Great result mate. Congrats.

So it's hitting full boost by 4000rpm.

That's pretty damn good, especially when you are running the stock manifold and the gate off the turbine housing aren't you?

what size exhaust are you running?

Not sure on the road speed conversion to rpm but it seems to be hitting 16psi at 4000rpm; 16psi is the boost level chosen not 'full boost' capacity of the turbocharger and system. Don't mean to be picky but its good to know the difference as it can be misleading.

If it were to run more more boost, it would take more rpm to generate that additional boost. Basic eg, full boost could be theoretically 45psi + and at that boost level, it would not hit that at 4000rpm but more rather 5000rpm or so. More relevant, if they were to turn the boost up to 25psi, they might see that figure anywhere from 4200rpm to 4500rpm.

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Glad to hear you got it sorted mate. great result!

Really makes me think about adding the juice to mine too. Be really interested to know what the higher compression would do with it.

How much would you estimate the additional costs were? do you have a ethanol meter? tuning etc?

So it's hitting full boost by 4000rpm.

That's pretty damn good, especially when you are running the stock manifold and the gate off the turbine housing aren't you?

what size exhaust are you running?

yeah 20psi at 4000rpm and yes stock manifold and gate off the housing, i have a 3 1/2inch system and 3inch muffler ,

Edited by SliverS2

Glad to hear you got it sorted mate. great result!

Really makes me think about adding the juice to mine too. Be really interested to know what the higher compression would do with it.

How much would you estimate the additional costs were? do you have a ethanol meter? tuning etc?

thanks mate, the juice had the tuner shaking his head laughing, he did the tune in about 45min which was pretty good going,

additional costs were

injectors and rail - $830

fuel reg- $270

modifying manifold -$50

others hoses,fitting ,fuel etc -$200

tune$200-$300

shit sounds like alot, best not thinking bout the total :closedeyes: dont have an ethanol analyser, its been tuned on the richer side and im just going to keep an eye on the knock levels.

Edited by SliverS2

Not sure on the road speed conversion to rpm but it seems to be hitting 16psi at 4000rpm; 16psi is the boost level chosen not 'full boost' capacity of the turbocharger and system. Don't mean to be picky but its good to know the difference as it can be misleading.

If it were to run more more boost, it would take more rpm to generate that additional boost. Basic eg, full boost could be theoretically 45psi + and at that boost level, it would not hit that at 4000rpm but more rather 5000rpm or so. More relevant, if they were to turn the boost up to 25psi, they might see that figure anywhere from 4200rpm to 4500rpm.

Im well aware of all this, but full boost to me usually refers to the maximum boost setting the owner has choosen to run for the supplied dyno graph. For the more novus reader though, i can understand where you are coming from.

I think 4000rpm is decent considering the flow capacity the gtx3076 has, I'd be stocked with the result. Wonder if the poncams made much of a difference?

Great result mate. Congrats.

Not sure on the road speed conversion to rpm but it seems to be hitting 16psi at 4000rpm; 16psi is the boost level chosen not 'full boost' capacity of the turbocharger and system. Don't mean to be picky but its good to know the difference as it can be misleading.

If it were to run more more boost, it would take more rpm to generate that additional boost. Basic eg, full boost could be theoretically 45psi + and at that boost level, it would not hit that at 4000rpm but more rather 5000rpm or so. More relevant, if they were to turn the boost up to 25psi, they might see that figure anywhere from 4200rpm to 4500rpm.

i just looked one of the video's i took , its actually before 4000rpm, ill try to upload it to show proof of the road speed v's revs,

it looks like 100km/hr is about 3500rpm in 4th so if thats right then i have 20psi at about 3800ish

Edited by SliverS2

haha.. even when cruising its like a kettle whistling and whining , dont have need for the radio much these days lol :whistling:

Haha nice result man! Gotta love that sound!

Your standard engine will take more boost and love it ;)

cos of the internal wastegate

Its an external wastegate, tial 44mm with a 0.82rear housing , i doubt it could ever fall over

It looks that way because of how the boost controller was set, i put in 90%duty up till 3500rpm to try and get it boosting early, and 60% for 3500-7000rpm

we never touched it on the dyno , just did a run and because the power was what i was after, decided to leave it where it was, there is no problem getting it too hold 20psi all the way thru if we wanted to, but this way the engine isnt being leaned on so hard toward the end of the revs, so a quick adjustment on the controller would see 350kw probably, but i dont want to be rebuilding an engine for a while yet so will just leave it for a while. :yes:

Edited by SliverS2

For ARTZ, I honestly think the external gate setup here helps with how impressive it is.

The internal gate would be a different story, a little lazier IMO.

Im pretty sure Mick_O is on par for spool with this car but has a GTX71, i dare say if he went external gate off the housing his spool would improve again.

Its an external wastegate, tial 44mm with a 0.82rear housing , i doubt it could ever fall over

It looks that way because of how the boost controller was set, i put in 90%duty up till 3500rpm to try and get it boosting early, and 60% for 3500-7000rpm

we never touched it on the dyno , just did a run and because the power was what i was after, decided to leave it where it was, there is no problem getting it too hold 20psi all the way thru if we wanted to, but this way the engine isnt being leaned on so hard toward the end of the revs, so a quick adjustment on the controller would see 350kw probably, but i dont want to be rebuilding an engine for a while yet so will just leave it for a while. :yes:

the answer was for the hks pro s (r31 power)

I went for a nice drive in Mick O's GTX3071 R33 today and am so blown away at how good it is that I honestly cannot see how he could improve such a potent weapon. Running e85 and an incredibly fast spooling gtx pumping 330rwkw it had me laughing madly all the way and being the really nice bloke that he is, he was laughing as much too! Thanks so much Mick O, Ur setups just so amazing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...