Jump to content
SAU Community

Using Two Oil Sandwich Plates?


Recommended Posts

Has anyone used two oil sandwich plates before (on top of the stock oil warmer / cooler) and has it caused any clearance issues with the fitment of the oil filter? My skyline is in a million pieces (engine out) at the moment so I can't have a look and estimate the clearance.

I know it's not ideal using two as its just another point of failure / leaks, but it will make my life easier :P

Cheers

Justin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No I mean two sandwich plates in addition to the stock oil warmer / cooler. I have an oil cooler to install with a built in thermostat in the sandwich plate, so it doesn't have room for the 1/8" NPT sensor holes. I need to install an oil pressure sensor and will possibly install another oil temp sensor down the track so i will need a second sandwich plate with the sensor holes.

I realise I could get rid of the factory oil pressure sensor and install the new one there, but then I would need to find a BPT to NPT adapter to fit it, and the (crap) factory oil pressure gauge would stop working, which whilst pretty much useless would annoy me to not have it working. I think you can get a BPT adapter with a tap for both a BPT and NPT sensor, but I havent been able to find one anywhere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, most common thing to do is get a relocator kit. Then the oil filter relo plate has the bungs u require

That is the third and probably smartest option :) - but if I did want to do go with the 2 sandwich plates do you think I would have a clearance issue between the oil filter and the drivers side wheel arch? As my engine in not in the car I cant visualise it.

I am just looking the oil filter now and I do use the smaller R34 type ones, so I am pretty sure there will be plenty of room.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just measured up the Nissan R34 oil filter against a Z145A, its about 1.3cm shorter so I think there will be plenty of room with the 2 sandwich plates whilst using the smaller filter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't you just drill and tap some holes in the thermo sandwich plate?

I thought of that but there is only a small area where that might be possible, and its kinda recessed and on an angle:

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1597/Mocal_Sandwich_Plate

Not sure it how well it would work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1/8 npt into 1/8 bpt won't seal?

Or tap pressure sensor hole to npt then use a tee?

Curious myself

Found this but don't ship out of US

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use two on my boat.

one for oil supply from dry sump + sensors

one mocal sandwich plate for thermostat - attached to heat exchanger

No dramas in terms of "its just another point of failure / leaks"

Not sure on clearance issues tho...

post-29626-0-81291700-1339281354_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use two on my boat.

one for oil supply from dry sump + sensors

one mocal sandwich plate for thermostat - attached to heat exchanger

No dramas in terms of "its just another point of failure / leaks"

Not sure on clearance issues tho...

Using an RB25 in a boat = awesome! :P

I'm going to order one of the Just Jap items linked to above, I think clearance will be fine.

Thanks everybody.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Hi all, I've just ordered a Driftworks oil cooler kit with the Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate, which doesn't have sensor points.

I have an existing sandwich plate for Defi sensors and I'm wondering if I can run both at the same time? The car is an R34 GTT with the Neo engine and standard small Ryco Z422 filter.

The other option is to add an extender piece (?) between the oil cooler sandwich plate and the braided line where you can hook the sensors but I'm not sure if such a part exists?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1/8 npt into 1/8 bpt won't seal?

NOPE

the threads are incompatible, but they are close enough that you can force it in. however that means you have over stressed some of the threads and it could develop a leak at any time. Which is probably a bad idea if you use it where you care about the quality of the seal, for example.. in a pressurised oil feed!

to answer the original question, in a GTT I don't see how clearance could be an issue. I reckon you could stack 5 or 6 sandwich plates before you have any issues.. there's a ton of room!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's probably an underlying issue with the A/C system too. I recently fixed mine, now it's fully control by the Haltech and car's factory HVAC controller  Have a squiz here:    
    • And by the way, I've also checked the ECU diagnostic numerous times and got a bad O2 sensor code and initially an Ignition Primary code, which is why I replaced the O2 sensor and all the ignition components (coil packa, plug and loom). No codes have been coming up lately despite the ongoing issue.
    • Hey pber13, unfortunately still no luck. At this point the following has been done with little or no success: - Spark plugs replaced, gapped to 0.8mm - Splitfire coilpacks installed to replace originals - Replaced Ignition Coil/Coilpack harness with a new genuine nissan one - New fuel filter - Replaced AFM/MAF sensor - Injectors have been thoroughly cleaned with an online flush (without removing) - Upper engine and inlet decarbed - blew tons of black smoke out, cleared the carbon deposits from the top of the engine and exhaust.  - IACV removed and thoroughly cleaned with carburettor cleaner - O2 sensor replaced with new and genuine one -  Smoke test revealed no vacuum leaks - Healthy compression test of 160psi across all 6 cylinders Overall the car does run a lot smoother now, no backfires between gear shifts like it did originally... but the rough idle when warmed up is still there. It may not even be a misfire but simply a rough idle. Seems crazy to me that so many people have had this issue and seemingly no one has gotten to the bottom of it, or at least never bothered to post if they did! Hope you have more luck than I did pber13, I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try to ignore it unless it gets worse. Would love to fix it but I've genuinely run out of ideas of what it could be.
    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
    • Deeve, I don't suppose that you've made any progress on this? My Stagea has the exact same problem, and just like you, I've read through as much as I can online, with no real progress. My car isn't throwing any codes at all, which is a little frustrating. I've changed plugs, checked the wiring and harness. A new MAF gets here next week, but I'm not hopeful it will solve the issue.
×
×
  • Create New...