Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hows the lag and day to day street driving on these ebay cheapies? Why would anyone cheap out on such a critical component as the turbo :s

yeah i understand but i honestly dont consider the turbo to be a critical component in the car.. its the other supporting mods like injectors, afm etc that will initially keep the car running healthy into greater power that compliments the turbo to perform well..

there is a bit of lag,, but i love it.. you feel the sudden power at around 3000 (full boost)

yeah i understand but i honestly dont consider the turbo to be a critical component in the car.. its the other supporting mods like injectors, afm etc that will initially keep the car running healthy into greater power that compliments the turbo to perform well..

there is a bit of lag,, but i love it.. you feel the sudden power at around 3000 (full boost)

general consensus has always been that its all in the turbo n tune...

also, if ur seeing full boost at 3000rpm then you have a small-arse turbo on there. infact i wouldnt put it past the chinese ebay place to have told you a stock RB25 turbo. Its pretty much the only turbo that will make full boost by 3000rpm on an RB25...

This thread has certainly brought the lulz...

Cannot believe some of the stuff before my eyes... Backyard mechanics at it's best. Next people will be filling their tyres with grass to fix flats

Havnt you tried that?? (tee hee)

best backyard fix ive seen pics of was of a ute (in a small african country)where the owner had lost the rear tyre off the rim and replaced said tyre with a garden hose and he was driving it around like that

Edited by StevenCJR31

ive done about 20K on it since install.. it is supposedly meant to run with bigger injectors without further tune (not that mines ecu can be tuned) .. not sure about the z32 (still running a stock afm) . just have the little bolt ons, eg, big return mount ic , bosch fuel pump, series 6 sparkies, pod, 3 inch exhaust..

this chip know's when you've changed the injectors too, i wasted 'big bux' on my ecu! F!

Havnt you tried that?? (tee hee)

best backyard fix ive seen pics of was of a ute (in a small african country)where the owner had lost the rear tyre off the rim and replaced said tyre with a garden hose and he was driving it around like that

:yes:

post-47580-0-04465600-1340855614_thumb.jpg

so, why are these cheap turbos failing? poor manufacture, poor quality materials, user/installer neglect? do the expensive turbos really out perform the cheap ones?

just because it's cheap doesn't mean it's crap and so far the argument to buy the expensive turbo seems to be losing to me... by about $500.00

so, why are these cheap turbos failing? poor manufacture, poor quality materials, user/installer neglect? do the expensive turbos really out perform the cheap ones?

just because it's cheap doesn't mean it's crap and so far the argument to buy the expensive turbo seems to be losing to me... by about $500.00

I agree, turbos are not really complex pieces of machinery.

so, why are these cheap turbos failing? poor manufacture, poor quality materials, user/installer neglect? do the expensive turbos really out perform the cheap ones?

just because it's cheap doesn't mean it's crap and so far the argument to buy the expensive turbo seems to be losing to me... by about $500.00

Not all cheap turbos are bad, without even thinking Kandos and hypergears are proven performers without the price tag.

as with most things of a "cheap" nature it can be one or a mix of things you have mentioned that cause premature failure. the failure can range from oh my turbos making a funny noise to why is there no boost, right up to i think a piston just shot through the side of my block.

From what I have seen, the particularly bad ebay turbos are not balanced (or balanced at a low rpm to claim a low failure rate) - which is not a hard thing to do and is essential to ensure to the functionality and longevity of a turbo. you simply take it to a turbo shop and they attach it to a manifold in store and spin it right up to it's max rpm to ensure it spins freely and centered. if it is unbalanced they can cut small bits from the inducer or exducer to ensure it i within 0.00000 something of a gram off weight.

all the more mid range to expensive turbos will have slight bits of metal shaved off, thats not a manufacturing fault. If it is unbalanced with a cheap material or a cheap bearing, at a high rpm the fins start rubbing against the housing and anything from some of that dust getting sucked into the motor to a single fin to the entire set of blades flying off at crazy speeds can happen extremely easily.

Some other cheap exhaust housings leave large amounts of space between the exducer and the housing to mask this problem as well as other things and that causes positive boost to come on really late and gives you a useless powerband.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
×
×
  • Create New...