Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am in the middle of buying/building my new RB26/RB30 swap in my S14 here in the States. I have been researching the conrod issue and I have a few questions for everyone here. I feel that I have beat myself up researching this and I just want all of your opinions since real world experiences are more important to me than the different companies marketing techniques. I am looking for around 800 AWHP, give or take a few HP.

I have narrowed it down to a few decent choices, knowingly staying away from the Chinese copies such as Manley, Spool (which appear to be ok) etc. So I have found the following, in no absolute order.

1) Pauter X-Beam Rods

2) NITTO I-Beam Rods

3) Argo I-Beam Rods

I know that all of these choices have the +'s and -'s, but I need your help with this. The Pauters come available (for an extra $45.00 a rod) with wrist pin oiling internally through the rod. The NITTOs supposedly have a jet near the main that squirts oil to the bottom of the piston, mimicing a block oil squirter. And the Argos speak for themselves with the RIPS boys.

So with cost set aside (since the rods are an important part of a longer stroke engine with higher RPM ranges) what rods do you recommend? No TItanium recommendations please, I don't have $6000+ for only rods.

Thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403853-rb26rb30-conrod-choices/
Share on other sites

argo carrillo spool etc all decent rods, but i wouldnt put them in an rb30,

rb30 doesnt have block mounted oil squirters,

the oil squirter makes sure the oil reaches the bottom of the piston, which keeps it cooler, less detonation, less f**king around taking the timing out to loose power to prevent it detonating

without the oil squirter in the rod it will seep out towards the radius/ counterweights and will spray but will randomly touch the bore and bottom of piston skirt

rb30 STD & Nitto rods have oil squirters in the big ends of rods - thus the reason i only recommend the standard with up graded ARP bolts or Nitto H beam or I beam rods

(if you or anyone else knows of any other brands that have the oil squirter in the rb30 big ends then please post them up)

Alot of them have the notch on the conrod side faces to direct the spraying oil up the bore and onto the piston/small end area. But then again alot of engines dont have oil squirters and dont have issues. No doubt a buttload of rb30's running around without oil squirters and dont have det issues either.

H beams have the "valley" to guide the oil, but how does the oil get there?

The notches your talking of are on the sides right?

And im not talking about detonation consistently, my car plain H beams, tuned, bad batch of fuel detonated, rebuilt, coated pistons drilled 1.5mm hole in rod in line with bearing, tuner said he had more timing to play with, more chance of a better result

Yeh the conrod side faces. Same trick used by honda f1 back in the turbo era.

Argo I beam rods have the notches in the sides to direct oil up towards the bore.

Im not disputing what you are saying. Just saying there are alot of people with no oil squirters who dont even realise the difference, and there are people who do and dont realise the difference. Maybe in your NA engine it is more pronounced.

  • 2 weeks later...

Ive used spool rods in several 700hp+ rb30s with no problems.

They now have oils squirters also.

Good to hear........I was looking at their kits and what you get for $2K is pretty good value esp. for a streeter.

  • 1 month later...

Does anyone else have exp with spool? Ive heard some very positive results, but alot of negative also... generally with negative comments its always the 'cheap chinese imposter' with no foundation or reason for the remarks

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...