Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My super drager was buggered in the cannon, all rusted and crumpled some how.. Causing a restriction enough to hold back a 12psi actuator to 8.5psi. Cut it open cleaned it out so its hollow but its very droney now lol :down:

Edited by GotsWapan

I've got a hks super drager on my 32 and it isn't loud at all. I may go down the path of removing the mid muffler to a resonator to get Abit more sound out of it.

Thought long and hard about doing this to mine as well.. but it is nice not being stung every time I get to take it for a drive.

LOL

Not only chicks,

I like to hear my turbo and whether the engine is pinging.

Also it is nice to listen to the radio.

A noisy exhaust doesn't cut it .. nor does a dump-valve ;)

The chicks love the quiet exhausts. Then they think they can talk the whole time ur driving

Edited by Torques
  • 3 weeks later...

Just to recap on the topic

I installed the exhaust and it is quite loud :(

There's a heavy low rpm drone which is more behind the car than in the car.

I got a lot of angry looks from people at bus-stations (if you know what I mean)

It's a bit much for city driving, and I will try to get the drone down with one of these mini silencers.

I suspect the exhaust is so noisy since I have no CAT installed ...

post-33912-0-57509100-1345481256_thumb.jpg

post-33912-0-54265100-1345481261_thumb.jpg

Just to recap on the topic

I installed the exhaust and it is quite loud :(

There's a heavy low rpm drone which is more behind the car than in the car.

I got a lot of angry looks from people at bus-stations (if you know what I mean)

It's a bit much for city driving, and I will try to get the drone down with one of these mini silencers.

I suspect the exhaust is so noisy since I have no CAT installed ...

Its noisy cause there practically no muffler, a rear cannon like that will do nothing if its straight thru.. its not much different to having just a straight thru pipe on the end...

I used to have the exact same on the back, now i got a proper muffler and still make the power and it actually sounds alot nicer..

Which muffler did you get?

Its noisy cause there practically no muffler, a rear cannon like that will do nothing if its straight thru.. its not much different to having just a straight thru pipe on the end...

I used to have the exact same on the back, now i got a proper muffler and still make the power and it actually sounds alot nicer..

I found this one ...

http://www.japspeed.co.uk/Nissan-Skyline-R32-R33-Silenced-Decat/p-0-275/

Maybe worth a try (I'd get it cheaper)

a cat and a middle resonator/small sized muffler will help out a lot.

i cant say if that one will help much, i would guess it wouldnt cause it looks smallish...

I have a 3 1/2inch system with hotdog resonator and a 3inch X force muffler ( large oval) , the muffler is semi straight thru and forces the exhaust into it to muffle the noise , but obviously its flowing great cause it made well over 300kw..

I think you would be happy with a similar setup, it has a nice muffled , tough note thats quiet enough to hear your radio without dronning. can hear it in my thread on the dyno...

on my GTT i had a Hypergear OP6 Highflow and a R33 Super Dragger :), R34 is slightly shorter, so it only needed a little modifications. Mine was very quiet, running a CAT obviously (you're stupid not to) and i THINK there was maybe another section in there that's different to yours.

when idling i'd get people asking me if my car was on :D - but had a nice note, didn't drone and flowed well enough for the situation.

Thanks,

I removed the CAT 3 years ago, it's common practice here since (older) JDMs can get away with it.

(Removing that CAT actually made a big difference, so why is that stupid?)

Also my car was tested for emissions recently and it was all to plan, no complaints.

However I am considering getting a high cell count CAT.

I am certain that would also solve the noise issue ..

on my GTT i had a Hypergear OP6 Highflow and a R33 Super Dragger :), R34 is slightly shorter, so it only needed a little modifications. Mine was very quiet, running a CAT obviously (you're stupid not to) and i THINK there was maybe another section in there that's different to yours.

when idling i'd get people asking me if my car was on :D - but had a nice note, didn't drone and flowed well enough for the situation.

Edited by Torques

on my GTT i had a Hypergear OP6 Highflow and a R33 Super Dragger :), R34 is slightly shorter, so it only needed a little modifications. Mine was very quiet, running a CAT obviously (you're stupid not to) and i THINK there was maybe another section in there that's different to yours.

when idling i'd get people asking me if my car was on :D - but had a nice note, didn't drone and flowed well enough for the situation.

must of had a silencer somwhere.. cannons will never be quiet.. not like that..

put a high cell cat and you'll take some edge of it, better off with a 100cell cat or no cat, and a good sized oval proper muffler, semi straight thru

Hi,

What small box do you mean?

Do you have any pictures?

Suprised, seeing the pic.. as the one im about to put up for sale has a small box.....

And it wasnt to loud or drowny at all.

actually sounded good!!

Yep, I agree a 100%, cannons will always be on the louder side.

(especially when they are 3.5'' in diameter)

As for the CAT if I could find one with a 3'' flange that would be great.

The standard CAT is just 60mm (3''=76.2mm)

must of had a silencer somwhere.. cannons will never be quiet.. not like that..

put a high cell cat and you'll take some edge of it, better off with a 100cell cat or no cat, and a good sized oval proper muffler, semi straight thru

Edited by Torques

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...