Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I've got a series 2 C34 Stagea that the wife drives, when we went to clean the car couple of days ago we noticed the carpet in the front drivers side footwell was damp and the underside of the floor mats were wet. Not wanting the carpets to go moldy I've pulled out the drivers seat pulled up the carpet and noticed that there was alot of water collected in the front and rear footwell and the white foam was soaked. I've soaked up as much water with towels as I can and am currently drying the foam and carpets out with a hair dryer.

Does anyone know a possible scorce of the water? The wife usually has the air con climate control on all the time and I originally thought it could be condensation from the rear foot a/c duct but it seems like alot of water for that

Any help or similar experience stories and solutions or fixes would be greatly appreciated cause I don't way it collecting again

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409399-water-in-foot-well-c34/
Share on other sites

It would definitely be worth checking that the drain from the aircon condenser hasn't fallen off, or isn't kinked or blocked; this could result in all the condensate water from the aircon running down the inside of the firewall.

Water from your heater core should be green; this is the colour of the coolant you should have in the cooling system.

:wacko: I have the same problem. Pretty sure its not the heater core as the coolant level is not going down. Most of the water comes down the LH side - must find the aircond drain and maybe the drain from the sun roof but it could be something else altogether

yeah exactly, the front sunroof drain is a plastic pipe down the a pillar to the front wheel well somewhere, the rear drain down the C pillar to the rear wheel well.

mine leaks from the front sunroof drain into the passenger footwell, with all that lovely sound deadening it can stay damp for ages unless you dry it out.

but since I've never worked out where mine is blocked, I just don't park it nose downwards when it rains :)

Ok so if the sunroofs drain down the passenger side pillar why would the water be in the drivers side foot well? It seemed to of collected most near the trams tunnel near the rear a/c plastic duct thing (where the hump is, left side of the drivers side footwell)

you've got me there, no way for water to get over the transmission tunnel. maybe there are 2 drains, one on either side. mine always leaks passenger side.

also ac drain is on the passenger side.

heater core is above the trans tunnel so it could leak either side, but coolant is a very specific colour and smell, you wouldn't confuse it for water (unless you are running water in the radiator of course)

Has it been raining much in your area recently?? I had the same thing with my car a while back. It had been raining for weeks and i noticed 1 day that the carpet was damp. The water was getting in somewhere (unfortunately i didnt find it), but as soon as the rain stopped it dried out. No matter how much i ran the hose over the car, i never found where it was getting in.

I have just replaced the heater core in a C34,with one from an R33, the existing core was maked as Laurel. The core had a hole in it I think due to no green stuff in the water.

It was leaking into the drivers footwell through the ducting, with less water in the passenger footwell.

As it was the first time I have had to do this, I removed the entire dash pad, centre console, loosened the steering column and everthing to get to it, after doing it I think I would be able remove the core without taking the entire dash out.

The hassel was removing the passenger air bag to get at the fan out of the way to access the core. It is a mission even for me who takes cars to bits on a regular basis.

There three units that make up the heater setup, Ducting director, fan assembly and heater core assembly.

Took a day to get out, replace and back in.

I suppose it's possible just to get a radiator place to pressure test the heater core and see if that's the cause of the leak

Well yes you'd just be pressure testing the whole system with the heater full on and looking for the leaks! I got a heater core for my last Stagea (I'm on my third C34!) brand new from the local radiator shop - once they see it they can match it up - they are common with a number of other cars.

Checked the carpet again today and the water is back :(, I might have to try to bypass the heater core dry it out and see if it comes back again. Is there a guide to changing a heater core or do you just keep taking stuff out until you can get to it, the cars got a xanavi climate control unit, will it be any problems if I bypass the core?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...