Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

Cheers Jordy!

With the battery box ready to go, I spent a lot of time measuring & test fitting it on the passenger side of the boot.

I'll be fixing it down with M10 bolts, so I carefully marked the set-out & drilled the floor pan. To be safe I measured both underneath & inside the boot - it's very important this is done otherwise you risk drilling through the chassis rail material.

Each hole obviously brush touched with etch primer to prevent rust. & I'll pack the boot floor up with some 5mm plywood pieces to keep it all nice & flat.

I'll post pics of that next weekend, and you'll all be happy to know that's when the cams, valve springs, rocker arm stoppers, & fresh oem bits (e.g. valve stem seals, collets etc) for the head are going in.

MHX5NBYh.jpg

But he likes racing pedigree items.. like mentioned over on Nissan Silvia LOL.

Personally would have used a dry cell and mounted it on the hump, on the opposite side of the fuel tank access. More boot space for E85 tanks going to the track :)

Fatz, please elaborate? Keep in mind I'm not running a lead acid battery, it'll be a lithium motorbike battery....

Johnny, that wasn't an option for me as that'd be an instant defect having an exposed battery in the boot (the law doesn't differentiate between lead acid & dry cell). Skylines get away with it due to the cabin being completely seperated...

 

 

BTW... put in headstuds at a minimum.. I am assuming the cams are coming out one day?

I recently tuned Killaflop's S15 from Nissan Silvia / trak-life crew member and it's got about 1.8bar of boost going into the stock motor hehe... however Mr Fuel pump wasn't happy and we didn't delete the OEM pressure relief valve, so with 1150cc injectors we were at 100% DC.

Round 2 soon, hopefully will see 2 bar into the motor with just studs, a tomei gasket and poncams

  • 2 months later...

Johnny - im running an R33 GTR relief valve to avoid that problem. After a lot of thought I decided it's best to take the head off & stuff it full of the good stuff. Car will be getting floated to the engine builder this weekend. ....will leave bottom end stock for now unless it looks in bad shape when the motor gets torn down.

Going big valve so head will be ported & polished to within an inch of its life, and ill be getting rid of the squish pads for hemi chamber .

Spec is:

  • Tomei Poncams - 256 deg, 11.5mm lift
  • Tomei +1mm oversize valves
  • Tomei Type A Valve Springs
  • Tomei Rocker Arm Stoppers
  • JUN or Naprec Valve Guides (desperately chasing the valve guides as they're the only thing I don't have yet....)
  • ARP Head Studs
  • Tomei 1.2mm Metal Headgasket
  • Valve spring sheets
  • Brand New OEM Valve Spring Collets, Cam Washers, Retainers, Rocker Guides, Valve Stem Seals, Valve Seats

Rev Limit will be 7500rpm for now as I'd like to get a decent life out of the head....will keep everyone posted :)

 

 

 

 

better not to run any relief valve.. just pump -> line -> filter -> rail

3x S15s I've tuned recently, I deleted all 3x relief valves.. pieces of shit, you add boost and it loses fuel pressure.

On 9/21/2016 at 8:02 PM, BakemonoRicer said:
  • JUN or Naprec Valve Guides (desperately chasing the valve guides as they're the only thing I don't have yet....)

whats wrong with BC? can get most of the important bits for the head all in one package. much less lube involved compared to JUN and Naprec

http://www.briancrower.com/makes/nissan/sr20det_valvetrain.shtml

Ended up going with the JUN valve guides as Naprec didn't get back to me....they're getting shipped out tomorrow so I think best case scenario is they'll be here Tuesday.

Not too keen on the BC stuff, just comes down to personal preference really man. Plus, I'd rather stick with the stronger & slightly heavier OEM retainers.

  • 6 months later...

Head currently being disassembled and getting packed for overseas shipping soon.

Have been in talks with a few big machine shops in JPN and now one of them will be doing the work - porting & polishing the head to their specs & doing the machining for the big valves & hemi chamber (e.g. no squish pads)

Dose

Im suprised more people dont do it actually. As youd know the gtir head came from the factory without squish pads and from speaking to Naprec/JUN its definitely the way to go. Yet in Aus not many people do it...im wondering why..

 

You talking conversion to mechanical/lash setup for cams? Just means you can run aggressive ramp cams. Worthwhile for track NA motors but I really don't think it's worth the effort for turbo. My motor is gtir and you can't get rockers unless you go through Naprec (unless someone in the US (mazworx?) sell a conversion kit or something). I have pictures of the different rockers but no access to them right now.
I think oversized valves to improve head flow would be a better option, since the DE heads don't flow anywhere near as good as the VE heads.

Leroy - yes oversized valves will be getting installed (+1mm). The combustion chamber in the GTIR head doesnt have squish/quench pads, making the head a lot more detonation resistant than S13/14/15 SR heads. Seeing as the heads getting shipped  to Japan, I may as well future proof it for man boost.

Below on the right is an SR chamber with the squish pads removed.

13700233_272783309753761_769526829315289

GTiR combustion chamber is also bigger, so will lower compression. How are you going to mate the head to the block? What intake/runners are you going to use? Not much is interchangeable. I actually don't think any of it is.

Leroy, compression drops by .2 once the pads are taken out, with the 1.2mm tomei headgasket i'll retain standard 8.5:1 compression ratio.

Still using the S15 head mate, just taking out squish pads like a GTIR head is all I'm saying : )

It's fairly common with the high hp RB builds to take out either one or both squish pads. Piggaz has done this, so did Elrodeo666 from memory.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...