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Nah. I reckon that that is the HICAS CU. Just the large plug, PS specific and other I/O. I can't see that there'd be a need/want for the (non-HICAS) PS CU to be watching any of those inputs other than the speed sensor. -
Is there coolant flow to (through) the IACV?
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I replaced the entire IACV assembly with new unit from Nissan, idle acts the exact same, starts and runs with idle rock solid at 900, as soon as I plug in the solenoid from the new IACV the idle races up to 1400, even with idle adjustment on side back of intake manifold maxed out for lowest idle still way too high around 1200. Again if I unplug the IACV, turn idle screw to about half and it runs fine at around 900. thinking about just leaving it unplugged, do not ever plan to drive it when its cold, and always stored in climate control garage, just sucks to spend 500 dollars and have no change, could have left the original at this point. any other thoughts as to what it could be? maybe not even worth pursuing? that is if cold start idle aid was the only reason for Nissan to have this part anyway. tried AC and other loads and it never seemed to push idle below stall. -
By joshuaho96 · Posted
I don't know if this is accurate. The EPC places the EPS control unit somewhere in the engine bay or somewhere in the interior near the firewall, presumably because the things it's controlling mostly live up in the front of the car unlike HICAS which has a whole steering rack on the rear axle to handle. @D.phantom The R32 GTR manual actually has more than I give credit for talking about the non-HICAS cars: You can probe the pins on the diagnostic connector directly to read the EPS solenoid voltage as far as I can tell following the flow chart. -
Hi all, so I bought a very low kms 2019 Q60s in Nov 2022 and have been driving it stock for 17 months. The power from the VR30DETT has been a little scary as these cars did not come with a LSD. Although the ECU does well with compensating the lack of LSD by using automatic braking on different wheels when there is lost of traction etc, it does not really give me much confidence to push the car harder. Further to that, the car feels quite boaty especially around sharper corners or roundabouts - it would seem like the wheels are lifting on one side. These engines are also very prone to heat soak as the heat exchanger is tiny. I felt this during the heat wave in WA over summer even in normal driving. Gear shifting in the Q60 is also something that I hated - it's quite harsh at low speeds especially in traffic. I recently purchased a set of f&r sway bars, rear diff brace and a heat exchanger from Z1 in US. Here are my thoughts 1) Rear diff brace - no more wheel hop when accelerating quickly. wheel spin still present but manageable comparing to before. Gear shifts are now smoother, you can still tell its shifting etc but you dont feel the harshness. I would highly recommend this mod, and it should still be on sale at Z1 at the moment. 2) Sway bar - there are 2 settings for this F - 114%/165% increase in stiffness over stock and R - 138%/214% increase in stiffness over stock. Currently I am on the stiffer settings. The car feels very planted. Due to the weather over here I have not been able to test if i need to reduce the stiffness. So far it's much more comfortable to drive over stock as you dont feel like your car is lifting up and in fast turns you can control the car a lot better while turning left and right in quick succession. 3) HX - the Z1 HX has a much higher capacity and surface area (up to 200% or something). Again with the cooler weather it's a little hard to tell. I went with the Z1 HX due to the price, size and colour (black). You can't see the HX through the front bumper. There is a cheaper brand but it was smaller and the rest were more expensive which i didnt think was worth the extra since I won't track this car much at all. All 3 mods were easy to install, all plug and play. Note of caution, the front bar needed to come off for the HX to be installed.
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