Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

people have different techniques and times, and depending on the clearances, condition etc. some guys say hard and fasst, after bed in go full power. otherwise some suggest bed in then wait 1,000kms while doing some loading processes before full power, but really,,.. if your unsure, call a tuner/engine rebuilder.

im bit curious here, what would be the reason for replacing the big end bearings on a tired motor? ... would replacing them on a motor with highish km's be a good preventative measure against spinning a bearing or would that make you more likely to spin one if you have say 300kw's?

Edited by SliverS2

Blew an oil pump, had new bearings here so put them in while it was apart, bearings that i took out were in good condition.

Sumone must have a general rule for fresh bearings in a motor with pistons already run in. ??

10kms? 100kms ? 1000 kms?

when i bought my r33 gtr engine and took the sump off to fit a tomei sump baffle, we changed the main and rod bearings just as a preventative measure

stock bearings and journals were still great, so standard size replacements went back in, i was advised to do 1000kms to "take the sharp edges off" before giving it hell.

My view for "running in" bearings, 0km.

Blew an oil pump, had new bearings here so put them in while it was apart, bearings that i took out were in good condition.

Sumone must have a general rule for fresh bearings in a motor with pistons already run in. ??

10kms? 100kms ? 1000 kms?

when i bought my r33 gtr engine and took the sump off to fit a tomei sump baffle, we changed the main and rod bearings just as a preventative measure

stock bearings and journals were still great, so standard size replacements went back in, i was advised to do 1000kms to "take the sharp edges off" before giving it hell.

Can you please let me know which brand bearings you used? I just want to avoid this brand that has these "sharp edges"... Most bearing failures are caused by detonation, failed oil pumps (no oil pressure,oil surge on track cars) and the thing you rarely get told about....... Foreign materials ie: DIRT.... and blocks,heads and every single part not being thoroughly cleaned...

In a hydrodynamic bearing there is no metal to metal contact. The bearing interface is a layer of pressurised oil. Thus, there is no "wear in" period, because when the bearing is running metal to metal, it is destroying itself.

Nonsense question did not get a nonsense answer.

ive always just gone easy for first 500klm doing low to mid load as the klms rack up. just so if theres any issues it can be noticed and shut off early rather then when its on song in high revs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
    • D2 and Ksport are essentially the same thing and basically just generic Taiwanese manufacture. Better than ChinaBay crap, but... not top shelf. Öhlins have got to be some of the best dampers around, so likely to be a good option. It's going to get to the point though where I suggest you buy from Oz. We have at least 2x excellent options here. If I were you though, I'd be talking to KW about doing something for the R33. There's bugger all difference between that and the 32. In GTR land, anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...