Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So

I own a manual 34GTT and im looking at installing tomei cams ether type B or A. My tuner has advised me they might have problems with idel due to the fact

they can't change some settings on the nistune. Which is leading me to get the type A as they are alightly smaller.

So is there anyone out there running bigger cams with a nistune and if there was any problems.

My car has 3inch exhaust, fmic, bigger injectors, 3071r and the nistune.

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

THis is what ive been told. Being manual we may be able to get around it. We have had some dramas with the auto cars and big cams stalling.

The problem is at 0 throttle above 800 rpm the ECU cuts the fuel. If your cams are too big and you need your idle to be 950 then you are all ready under idle when the ecu starts to add fuel again.

I would imagine the 252’s should almost idle like standard so we should be able to tune around it.

There are other plug-in ECU’s on the market but I would stick with the nistune for as long as possible

The throttle recovery is about 1800rpm with an auto Stagea image. Unless there has been a revision on Nistune that allows you to modify this setting it seems to be pretty much set in stone with this image.

I have been supplied with the wrong image for the Stagea and haven't gotten around to removing the board and getting it reflashed to the manual image. I would love to lower the throttle recovery to about 1500rpm...and get rid of a couple of error codes.

I will be fine. NIStune is alot better and alot of tuneability compared to what some tuners think, it is however alot different to most ecu's so some tuners are unfamiliar eith how to tune them correctly

That's bullshit because the decel fuel cut rpm is adjustable, and it doesn't happen when the VSS is reading zero anyway.

I will be fine. NIStune is alot better and alot of tuneability compared to what some tuners think, it is however alot different to most ecu's so some tuners are unfamiliar eith how to tune them correctly

I would not be so sure about this.

This depends on the ECU being used.

There is not just one Nistune ECU and they all have different features depending on the hardware.

I have the Z32 ECU (Type 2) and there it seems to be working but on R34 (Neo / Type 4) I would not know.

From what the tuner said it seems he knows what he is talking about...

Best is to ask Nistune for a 2nd opinion

http://forum.nistune...+recover#p16761

Edited by Torques

Surprised no-one has asked why you'd even bother with cams on a 3071... turbo simply isn't big enough to warrant the expense IMO, far better things to spend that money on a bang for buck scale.

Im getting some great responses here keep them coming.

Johnnilicte " Replace tuner, lumpy cams don't like stoich, but being poncams man there won't be any issues"

The tuner is a very trusted and recommened on here 9/10 threads when people are chasing tuners in qld. I fully trust his addvice i just wanted to hear what others people have done in this situation.

 

R31 Nismoid "

Surprised no-one has asked why you'd even bother with cams on a 3071... turbo simply isn't big enough to warrant the expense IMO, far better things to spend that money on a bang for buck scale"

 

Thanks for the constructive criticism. What other bang for buck things would you recommend?

Half the reason i even want to do the cams is i have a weaping rocker cover seal and getting a 100k service done and the mechanic is a good mate. Just thought i might aswell get some see how the car will responsed.

 

34GeeTeeTee "The type B's in my car are undetectable.... Idles at 950 smooth az. They are not lumpy.

I see in your list of mods your running a Haltech. My problem is apparently the lack of ability to change a few settings with the nistune due to the higher idle. Not that they will be to lumpy.

Im getting some great responses here keep them coming.

Johnnilicte " Replace tuner, lumpy cams don't like stoich, but being poncams man there won't be any issues"

The tuner is a very trusted and recommened on here 9/10 threads when people are chasing tuners in qld. I fully trust his addvice i just wanted to hear what others people have done in this situation.

 

R31 Nismoid "

Surprised no-one has asked why you'd even bother with cams on a 3071... turbo simply isn't big enough to warrant the expense IMO, far better things to spend that money on a bang for buck scale"

 

Thanks for the constructive criticism. What other bang for buck things would you recommend?

Half the reason i even want to do the cams is i have a weaping rocker cover seal and getting a 100k service done and the mechanic is a good mate. Just thought i might aswell get some see how the car will responsed.

 

34GeeTeeTee "The type B's in my car are undetectable.... Idles at 950 smooth az. They are not lumpy.

I see in your list of mods your running a Haltech. My problem is apparently the lack of ability to change a few settings with the nistune due to the higher idle. Not that they will be to lumpy.

Johnilicte "You're hopping to Poncams right? you didn't specify..

Poncams have very mild duration so there won't be any issues idling at stoich & stock timing "

Yer im just trying to decide between type A or B.

I think this was re-moved due to not fully working.

(See the link I posted where a tuner asked about this)

It's not set in the base-image but in the so called Address-Files (new with each SW version).

For the Z32 ECU (which I have) it is available.

post-33912-0-22315300-1350546987_thumb.jpg

I might have to retract my statement about the cut & recover being adjustable in R34 images. I can't find it in the R34 images, even though I thought I had seen there in the past.

It is there in other images I have used, like the R32 RB20.

Thanks for the constructive criticism. What other bang for buck things would you recommend?

Half the reason i even want to do the cams is i have a weaping rocker cover seal and getting a 100k service done and the mechanic is a good mate. Just thought i might aswell get some see how the car will responsed.

Brakes, suspension, clutch, diff - I could go on but you get the idea :)

should not be an issue, yes the r34 nistune has less tuneable addresses than other nistune ecus it wont have an issue (most are cold enrich issues on e85 on really big horsepower setups) , i do however recommend running the std bov to help alleviate the stalling... it is an issue with some setups on r34 ecus. We have made mid 400's on r34 nistunes so they are capable, you may just need to make a few compromises.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
    • Welcome!  Can't go wrong with a Stag.
    • Looks good. Nice height.
    • Hey all, a little help from the Stagea hive mind plz.. I'm days away from buying either a 2002 Stagea 250tRS AR-X Four, premium leather, power seats and all the old switches etc that go with it, or a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO, pov pack, cloth seats etc, with coil overs, sports zorst, comes with original zorst and suspension and parts. (I think I've got the models right?) Both are VQ25DET, have 160000kms, both straight no rust both with $2000+ in recent servicing receipts, both ride on aftermarket 18" rims. The Aero has a replaced turbo as well. I like the cool factor of the Aero car but the AR-X has never been modified. Neither have been driven hardly at all in the last 5 years. Any thoughts on which one or does it come down to personal preference? davemoto 
×
×
  • Create New...