Jump to content
SAU Community

Max Amps Pulled From Battery / Cable Gauge Required To Relocate Battery To Boot


Recommended Posts

I searched for a DIY guide on relocating the battery to the boot, and surprisingly couldn't find anything!

Can anyone advise on the minimum cable gauge required to relocate the battery to the boot? I have a heap of 8AWG cable (61Amp capable) which I realise is probably not going to be sufficient, but I am just wondering if I run 2 of the lines if it will be enough?

Cheers :cheers:

Justin

depending on the quality of the cable i recommend 2awg as a minimum preferably larger,

i measure a starter on a v6 commodore 160amps on cranking. which has lower compression so i assume less work would be needed to crank.

Cheer's for the responses :no: Looks like even 2 x my 8AWG wire is not going to cut it!!!

I think I will leave the battery relocation for another time.

2ga is more than plenty, it is also the same as the -ve line from a mig welder. Hit up BOC gas and just buy some welding cables, works out cheaper than 2ga audio cable :)

My Gtr had the battery relocated to boot, used 2gauge cable, never have a problem with voltage drop or any other electrical problems (apparently these cars are voltage sensitive)

6 Cyl Starter motors usually draw between 200-400 amps. No amplifier wire is going to cut it. You need minimum 2 gauge battery/starter cable. It's about $10/m at repco from memory

6 Cyl Starter motors usually draw between 200-400 amps. No amplifier wire is going to cut it. You need minimum 2 gauge battery/starter cable. It's about $10/m at repco from memory

welding cable works out a tad cheaper if you have a trade account :)

Also don't forget your starter motor will draw more current in winter and also when the battery is lower in voltage. You need to account for these factors so you don't catch things on fire. Safety first :)

I used 0 gauge audio cable. And I ran both earth and positive. I didn't want to earth though the body. U can't go wrong with over earthing.

Cost alil bit, but I hate wiring probs so I just over killed it so there won't b issues.

  • 4 weeks later...

What are people using for distribution blocks once they have relocated the battery? Having a bit of a look at options for such things at the moment.

stereo components really.. you just need a good ANL fuse & holder that that's it.. don't waste your time with anything else :)

What are people using for distribution blocks once they have relocated the battery? Having a bit of a look at options for such things at the moment.

Custom made...

Neutral bar with stand offs in a jiffy box.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...