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Hi Guys,

Im wanting to build a reliable 500hp Rb25 and im wanting to know how and what parts would achieve this.

Its going to be my daily along with a few track days. What parts do you guys recomment that will make/handle this power?

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413751-how-to-build-500hp-rb25/
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I think what they're trying to say is, there's already plenty of info on here. Do you mean 500 crank HP or 500 rear wheel HP? Would you be happy with 470 crank HP or 300rwkw?

Best resource: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/

44 pages of RB25 goodness, from 150rwkw to 700rwkw.....

And if you search "500 HP RB25" it's the 6th result.......

For me, I think a reliable 500whp (but not much over) RB is as follows:

Upgrade valve springs and retainers

Appropriate cams

Forged pistons

Entry level H beam rods

Larger capacity sump

Oil pump drive collar

Quality oil pump

Oil restrictors to head (see KiwiRS4T sig for a collar and restrictor deal)

Head studs

With that stuff there and a 35R sized turbo you will have a good reliable engine that will do your 500whp everyday and wont end up letting you down.

You can skip the internal work and replace the motor when/if it dies possibly every year or two. This is a guestimate.

Please note the general consensus is that 20k is not enough to turn a stock skyline into a 500whp machine and 30k is more likely.

fuark that's sexy.. I like how the turbo is mounted, allows for the power steering reservoir to remain where it is... the dump probably presses on the A/C drip aye?

  • 3 years later...
  • 1 month later...
On 26/10/2016 at 5:06 PM, CaptBaker said:

is there a parts list/ some sort of "build thread" for this?

T67-25g Greddy turbo kit.

850cc BLITZ injectors

Greddy intake plenum ( tested stock vs the current q45 throttle and found no diff in power)

115mm greddy R-spec intercooler

Greddy race radiator

Greddy Header tank

Trust Titanium exhaust

GREDDY heat range 9 pro plugs (use denso IK01-24 now as the greddy are impossibly expensive even in NGK format)

PowerFC (soon to be emtron KV8)

Car also now has TOPSTAGE carbon front diffuser and Rear wing.

 

 

This car will lap winton or phillip island non stop without getting hot or having any IAT issues, we did a 30 lap test session with JT and our VK twin turbo LS1 to check endurance.

 

jt vk 2.jpg

jt vk.jpg

  • Like 1

Hi Mate,

I'm not too far off (430hp at 16psi on 98). I'm aiming for 500hp, I hope the below helps, I will be there soon (fuel system is currently being upgraded).

You probably don't need to do everything I did but at-least you can get a picture on what is needed:

  1. Gt35r turbo
  2. FMIC
  3. GReddy wastegate (60mm...i think)
  4. 6boost manifold
  5. ecu/boost management (I'm using a PFC and profec b)
  6. I had nismo 555cc injectors on stock rail (now have 1000cc's, turbosmart fuel reg and sorting surge tank/pumps)
  7. 260deg 9.25mm lift Tomei type b cams (from memory) with headwork done + springs
  8. forged pistons
  9. forged rods
  10. upgraded coil packs
  11. all the additional engine equipment (harmonic balancers, belts etc etc)
  12. larger sump with head oil drain
  13. I have a 3'' zorst. I've been told this is okay, but I would increase to 3.5"
  14. Plazmaman plenum
  15. clutch
  16. Not to mention blockwork- honing etc
  17. radiator

That's about all I can remember now, that doesn't take into account everything else that you will need. Suspension, brakes etc.

You could always to e85, but for practicality I can't justify it at the moment.

There was a lady on here a few years ago that really helped me out, but she was running a T04Z. Perhaps search rb25 T04Z, her build guide was excellent.

Agree with GTSSCOTT- your looking at about $10-15k to build the engine if you just do the basics.

13668992_10154330564827510_4643053593968356568_n.jpg

Edited by r33cruiser
  • Like 1

You can make that power with less parts and the right parts too.

Best to look into something twin scroll, divided rear housing and ball bearing.. I won't throw turbo models around because it would start a holy war LOL

If you can settle for less power, a low 300kw rb25 is a lot cheaper to build/run reliably than a 400kw one.

You can even skip the whole rebuild the engine drama if you want to (head gasket is probably a good idea along with better valve springs if you are running decent boost), lots of cooling (engine and oil) and stick to e85 or add wmi for safety when going harder on it.

Hi Mate,
I'm not too far off (430hp at 16psi on 98). I'm aiming for 500hp, I hope the below helps, I will be there soon (fuel system is currently being upgraded).
You probably don't need to do everything I did but at-least you can get a picture on what is needed:
  1. Gt35r turbo
  2. FMIC
  3. GReddy wastegate (60mm...i think)
  4. 6boost manifold
  5. ecu/boost management (I'm using a PFC and profec b)
  6. I had nismo 555cc injectors on stock rail (now have 1000cc's, turbosmart fuel reg and sorting surge tank/pumps)
  7. 260deg 9.25mm lift Tomei type b cams (from memory) with headwork done + springs
  8. forged pistons
  9. forged rods
  10. upgraded coil packs
  11. all the additional engine equipment (harmonic balancers, belts etc etc)
  12. larger sump with head oil drain
  13. I have a 3'' zorst. I've been told this is okay, but I would increase to 3.5"
  14. Plazmaman plenum
  15. clutch
  16. Not to mention blockwork- honing etc
  17. radiator
That's about all I can remember now, that doesn't take into account everything else that you will need. Suspension, brakes etc.
You could always to e85, but for practicality I can't justify it at the moment.
There was a lady on here a few years ago that really helped me out, but she was running a T04Z. Perhaps search rb25 T04Z, her build guide was excellent.
Agree with GTSSCOTT- your looking at about $10-15k to build the engine if you just do the basics.
13668992_10154330564827510_4643053593968356568_n.jpg


Really helpful!
Is that 430hp at the engine or wheels ?
Cheers

Yep.

If you are looking to go down the built engine road there will be many costs that you have to take into consideration. Its the small things like:

bearings, electrical work, you might have to replace stock parts like the C.A.S, thermostat, you might need to do some custom fab work etc etc.

Extra costs can quickly add up to $5k in themselves.

We don't mean to scare you off, its a great experience. I stupidly began my build thinking it would be "drive in, drive out"- its not haha

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