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Bnr32 - Once In A Lifetime Build All Gt-R Owners Must See

$$slowmedown
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$$slowmedown
$$slowmedown

Lakeside Classic - July 26, 2015 None of this build would of been possible without the man sitting next to me. Endless hours spent together talking, planning, working. Forever thankful Dad.

$$slowmedown
$$slowmedown

Cheers for the input guys, appreciated as always. Have been flat out getting this thing finished off over the last few weeks. Will get an update up asap!! For now I found these

$$slowmedown
$$slowmedown

I'll just leave this here...

Posted Images

  • 3 weeks later...
$$slowmedown Mentor

$$slowmedown

Posted
  • Author
Posted

0nly badge it needs is on that says "F**K YEAH"

Haha cheers mate, may detract from the look I am after ;)

I take my hat off to you sir...phenomenal effort.

Thanks a million Scott!

Well done on a great build.

Now every other GTR looks filthy compared to this.

Much appreciated Phil, unfortunately bnr32's are well and truly showing their age in most cases. But look what endless hard work and a significant amount of money can achieve!!

So not much has been happening of late. Latest jobs have been on the interior/electronics. Repositioned the defi display to be to view it easier. Also, got it setup properly re speed and rpm display. Input maximum rpm parameter and the shift lights working. Lastly, got warning values input for oil and water temp and oil pressure.

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Have finally started looking at ruzic controller install. It will be going in the glovebox with an extension harness so driver can adjust as needed from the drivers seat.

BeeR is going to be mounted as pictured for ease of adjustibility and just looks dumb anywhere else! Wiring will run up into side of centre console

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$$slowmedown Mentor

$$slowmedown

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

The thought of a Bee*R on this thing makes me sad :(

Whyyy Robbie? :(

Thanks for the input Martin. Have you used a BeeR personally? What were your findings?

Why? RPM control when on track and possible use of the launch control function if it proves to be useful...

Echo sentiment

Your thoughts Richard?

Edited by $$slowmedown
Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

It's your personal choice of how the interior looks and tech gadgets based on what you intend to do with your GTR.

placement for ease of use/vision I understand. Wasn't really my place to comment.

But having already opened my mouth.

- my personal opinion is to keep gadgetry minimal, functional, fit for purpose, base on frequency of use, and out of sight (as much as is possible).

some are done well and some aren't. Bit worried - that is all.

I like the clean interior of the R32 GTR.

  • Like 1
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

My comment was based on the reputation of the Bee*R limiters to do damage. Whilst I don't have any first hand experience with them, I do understand how they work. And it's not good.

In case you're interested or unaware, the Bee*R limiters work by grounding the coils rather than cutting signal completely. So when you hit the desired RPM, the Bee*R sends PWM pulses to the ground side of the coil and it doesn't fire. However PWM signals aren't just an on/off voltage, they are a pulse with varying duration, and in the case of ignition, the coil pack fires when it reaches the END of the pulse not the start. So when the revs drop below the desired limit again, the Bee*R stops sending the pulses to the ground side, and the coil packs can fire again. But because it has actually delayed the pulse, the spark can now occur at the wrong point in the cycle, and effectively results in detonation the same way advancing your timing too far would. In addition, if the yellow gain knob is set too harshly (which everyone does because the faster it cuts the cooler it sounds), you get a very aggressive accel/decel, which is no good for your oil pump or valvetrain.

I can see why these things were popular when they first came out, as the idea of an ignition cut vs fuel cut sounds much healthier for the engine. However I think it was done the wrong way, and it should be cutting the signal completely via a relay, so that the cut only ever starts as a spark happens and only ever ends as a spark happens, thus cutting the cycle completely. However modern ECU's like Haltech, Link, Adaptronic etc. have all sorted out a way of making fuel cuts quite safe, as they allow a percentage of fuel/ignition to be trimmed before the hard cut, at very very fine intervals.

  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
$$slowmedown Mentor

$$slowmedown

Posted
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Posted

Cheers for the input guys, appreciated as always.

Have been flat out getting this thing finished off over the last few weeks. Will get an update up asap!!

For now I found these :teehee:

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  • Like 6
$$slowmedown Mentor

$$slowmedown

Posted
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Posted (edited)

The detail of this build is ridiculous. I would love to see it in the flesh.

Well done mate congrats! :worship:

Cheers Steven :D

I don't even know what to say any more. I love this car.
Also great pics again

Thanks again mate, hoping to get some professional shots done someday soon!

Starting to forget what has happened over the last few weeks so better get something up or will never happen!

Hopefully one of the last lot Nissan orders came a while ago

New wiper arms with PIAA blades fitted up

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Door trims back off to fit up the new interior window trim pieces

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And forgot to get the after shot but all pretty boring stuff really, just finishing off the details!

Next up got the new rear quarter glass in (old glass was temp fitted) along with the new door opening trim that screws up to the body (again had to remove the old ones out along with the rubbers, a delicate job!!)

Also removed the Nismo option 3 piece body kit and got it fitted up properly with all new Nissan OEM clips/scrivets/screws etc and some quality 3M VHB double sided tape.

Will get photos up of the finished product just forgot at the time :/

Have also had the car back to paint shop for final detailing, had it corner weighted/wheel alignment done and new window tinting as been done. Will get details up soon...

One of the last things to do is fit up the original badges....can you anyone help me out with this?

I am chasing a car in original paint with ALL original badges so I can put mine side by side and measure up the placement of the badges accurately. Would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Edited by $$slowmedown
  • Like 1
$$slowmedown Mentor

$$slowmedown

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Finally popping wheelies lol! Car going onto scales to get a base and see how everything was sitting.

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Numbers came out as follows:

TOTAL WEIGHT (with driver 76 kg + approx. 70 L fuel = approx. 54 kg)

3,465 lb = 1,571 kg

CURB WEIGHT (less driver & fuel)

1,441 kg

CORNER WEIGHTS (WITH DRIVER)

LF = 980 lb RF = 1017 lb

LR = 710 lb RR = 757 lb

PERCENTAGES (WITH DRIVER)

FRONT = 57.63 %

REAR = 42.33%

LEFT WEIGHT = 48.77 %

CROSS WEIGHT = 49.84 %

Overall pretty happy with how numbers turned out! These were the numbers as the car sat with no adjustments needed as well.

Would of preferred it was lighter but it is what is now. Happy to hear thoughts on these or even better if you have numbers to compare?!!

Next up was wheel alignment:

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All went pretty smoothly. Got it set up for a comfortable street ride that is easy on the tyres.

There was a problem with the front upper arms. More to the point with the brand new Whiteline bush kits for these....

With everything all tightened up there is a noticeable amount of slop in the bushes where the upper arms bolt up to the body. So much so that the camber could not be reliably measured/adjusted.

My mechanic got a chance to pull them off the car yesterday and straight away noticed that the problem is a design fault with the Whiteline bushes, I believe it seems to be the metal pin that sits inside is to short so when tighted up the outer bushes can't 'crush' onto it. Has anyone else experienced this issue?

All the other Whiteline gear has been fine so far...it just seems to be these upper arm bushing kits...

Any feedback/thoughts/experience would be appreciated

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