Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

10 hours ago, OST Micah said:

What a thread! Great read over he past couple days. Hope this gets together soon.

I have a Speedtech gearset myself (no plate) on standby waiting for time to assemble. Thanks for the info on the quality of the kit.

Cheers mate, appreciate it!  Thanks for taking the time to read my meandering dribble!

It’s probably one of the oldest ‘active’ builds with the least amount of work ever done!  I’m sure the system has come close to auto-archiving my thread a few times due to lack of updates!

Fingers crossed I can ignore my motorbike for a month or so and I can smash out a few updates, stay tuned....

 

  • Haha 1

Also @OST Micah fingers crossed the Speedtek gear set works out for the both of us!  There was a lot of pressure by other forum members not to do it so personally I will look like a massive dick if mine turns to poo!  I’ll cop every single “I told you so” on the chin if needed! 🤣

9 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Can we get back to press mods please. I have been  patiently waiting, all this gearbox talk has really derailed it . 😃

  🤣 Press mods are on hold for now!  Unfortunately I’m being distracted by a bloody Skyline. Much rather be working on the press....

  • Like 1

Right,  so I'm not going to claim this as a massive milestone but I only had about an hour to work on the car over the weekend but rather than sit there staring at it I actually did a little thing!

I'm going to run an emap (exhaust manifold pressure) sensor so drilled a hole in the manifold, ground a weld on flange to match the shape of the pipes on the manifold, and welded the sucker on. Can tell I haven't tigged anything for a loooooong time as it was a bit shaky to start with. Not pretty but it'll hold!

In other developments- procrastinating over fitting a PRP engine brace while the engine is still out (means fully disassembling engine again if I do...), going drive by wire single throttle body (plenty of reasons why and probably just as many why not!) and also contemplating a bigger/better surge tank and fuel setup as I'm pretty confident mine won't be sufficient. 

More money, more delays, more excuses...

Anyway. Let's hope this is the first tiny little step in the direction of progress!

20210509_171737.jpg

20210509_173309.jpg

20210509_173517.jpg

20210509_173721.jpg

  • Like 5

Monthly commissions in, monthly commissions out....

 

PRP Block Brace ordered.

 

141113274_PRPBrace.thumb.jpg.061e754d66dfe3cf7c89e32c7bcabc1f.jpg

 

 

IMR single throttle body with Bosch DBW ordered.

 

Rb26dett single throttlebody plenum

 

Bummer.  I may have just added another few years to this build....  Apologies to anyone that actually cared if it got on the road over the next 2 years! 🤣

 

  • Like 2
1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

What! After all the work on your manifold you arent going to use it. Were you worried it would explode?

Was hoping no one would remember that! 😂

I’ll definitely use it, just not on this car. I spent too much time on it to desert it completely!

  • Haha 1
34 minutes ago, Looney_Head said:

those that follow this comedy thread never forget :P

Ha ha, yeah it has become a bit of a joke!

Luckily half of the original followers have either unsubscribed or died over the 9 years or there would be even more upset people! 🤣

  • Haha 2

I reckon your car will be done when we can all get historic plates on our cars.

Speaking of which, mine isn't any closer to ready either lol.. just bought a bunch of extra shit for no reason too 😅

34 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I reckon your car will be done when we can all get historic plates on our cars.

Speaking of which, mine isn't any closer to ready either lol.. just bought a bunch of extra shit for no reason too 😅

It's this year isn't it?  I think I'm running out of time!

Extra shit is never for no reason, whachoo talkin bout?  There is always a reason to buy more parts!  I've said it many times before, I rather buy shit than bolt it on!

  • Haha 1

This doesn't really feel like progress but I guess it is...

Stripping the motor down to prepare for the arrival of the PRP engine brace. Want to be ready to send the bottom end off for machining as soon as the brace arrives. 

It's only run for a fairly short amount of time but everything looks pretty good in there so far in terms of bearings and the pistons. The Teflon coating on the pistons has worn off quicker than I would have expected. 

Feels good to spend a bit of time out in the shed again. 

Needs a bloody good tidy up though.....

 

20210515_180905.jpg

20210515_202238.jpg

20210515_222352.jpg

20210515_222409.jpg

  • Like 6
  • 3 weeks later...

The goodies have started arriving from my spend up.

PRP block brace-

20210603_141427.thumb.jpg.567465d9d1222cc2cbb1d80e95d1f2fe.jpg

Will hopefully get the machining work I'll be doing on the block done this weekend before I send it off to the machinist next week for the machining of the bottom of the girdle to match the brace.

Plazmaman fuel rail (just 'cause they look nice! 😁)-

20210603_141747.thumb.jpg.76c0e7e135a1d7cd7f6b4274d6d7b372.jpg

And finally (for this week....) the stunning IMR intake and Bosch 85mm drive by wire throttle body-

20210603_142639.thumb.jpg.3ad6b7280707f2156118528ffdd7b049.jpg

20210603_142659.thumb.jpg.3d02d15b46f9fa28f18b19328d2e5ecd.jpg

20210603_142632.thumb.jpg.5357595f6a5d7968806a31c93cb563bd.jpg

Waiting on an AN braided heater hose replacement kit plus a heap of other AN fittings, hardiness, etc. 

I'm most likely going to ditch the under car surge tank with dual Bosch 044's and go with a Frenchy's Performance dual pump intake set-up instead. Will mean having to run a single AN8 hard-line from the tank to the engine bay before splitting off in two for each side of the fuel rail but its just so much neater that way. They claim surge free supply for cars up to 1000HP so that's well and truly good enough for me!

I think thats it for now. Time to start getting into it!

  • Like 2
31 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

If you need Wallahbros let me know, I can try price beat :)

No worries mate, I think Frenchys charge about $200 a pump for the F90000274 Walbros so if you can do it for that I’ll get them from you.  Probably mid this month. 

21 minutes ago, Shoota_77 said:

No worries mate, I think Frenchys charge about $200 a pump for the F90000274 Walbros so if you can do it for that I’ll get them from you.  Probably mid this month. 

I can do them for $400 delivered for 2x pumps with invoice :)

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...