Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:O:banana: lol

Where did you source it?

I got it from Revolution Racegear at kotara. He has a few different seats set up in the shop and in a few of the cars that are kept there that you can try out.

I love my Pro 2000's but damn they're a pain to get in and out of!

It was a bit of a fun novelty at first getting in an out but yeah it does be come a pain.

I got it from Revolution Racegear at kotara. He has a few different seats set up in the shop and in a few of the cars that are kept there that you can try out.

It was a bit of a fun novelty at first getting in an out but yeah it does be come a pain.

Thanks Mate! Appreciate it... Will look them up!

  • 1 month later...

So with E85 becoming more available now and with having 2 servos within 5minutes from my place now selling it. i thought i might give it a go and start running it.

Some of the parts i have started collecting for it.

f0ff8fac-bf94-4d59-a892-b039ce5cfa5a_zps

Walbro 450 E85 fuel pump and Xspurt 1000cc injectors.

a85f35af-da8d-4c00-ba76-1388c3df4072_zps

One of scottynm35's intake

fuelrail_zps2185713d.jpg

Fuel rail kit from scotty with adaptors/spacers so i can run the top feed injectors.

Im still tossing up on what ecu to use so i can run a flex tune as i don't want to run dual maps on the powerfc, I'm leaning towards the Adaptronic select plug in.

Probably comes down to the issues of budget and tuner preference which way you go with ECU.

What do you think of the steering wheel and boss setup? Did it change the length of reach to the wheel? Presuming slightly smaller diameter is there any noticeable difference in steering effort? And any obvious flex in the wheel if you apply in/out pressure to the rim?

Probably comes down to the issues of budget and tuner preference which way you go with ECU.

What do you think of the steering wheel and boss setup? Did it change the length of reach to the wheel? Presuming slightly smaller diameter is there any noticeable difference in steering effort? And any obvious flex in the wheel if you apply in/out pressure to the rim?

Overall im pretty happy with it the only real downside is that i cant fully see the top of the speedo and tacho as the top of the wheel is just in the way but that will be different from person to person depending on there height and seat height as well.

The wheel is closer to you so less of a reach to it. Yeah it is slightly smaller diameter i think its 350mm but i haven't noticed any difference in steering effort. There is a bit of flex in the wheel if you go pushing and pulling on it but i haven't noticed it while driving though.

  • 1 year later...

Its been awhile since i have updated this i had other things get in the way but i have finally got my priorities right and can continue with the build.

i have been collecting more parts lately so it should move quite quickly from her on in.

So i got an NPC cushioned button clutch which will handle the abuse i throw at it.

d00a4b93-d449-4522-8d8e-d67d2f45ae66_zps

Im not yet i will be soon i bought bought an adaptronic select plugin ecu and flex fuel sensor a few months back and just ordered my new turbo on the weekend.

I went for the hypergear ATR43SAT with the roller bearing CHRA, So i will start running it in the next couple of months when i have it all on and go in for the tune.

Yeah thats good to know i havnt heard of anyone having any troubles with them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...