Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

Suspension

Chris at Inline qbn, who is the local guru, had a heart attack just before doing an extensive job on the 32.

He is still working, however he cant take on the same workload as before, even though he has some helpers now.

So if you want the best be prepared to wait.

Second best is probably capital steering and suspension fyshwick.

I havent had work done by them, but they supplied my parts quickly, and others give them a good rap(earlier in this thread).

They have a large workshop and lots of workers, so im sure they would be quick on the job too.

But if your getting all adjustable arms and stuff, you want them adjusted right, so Inline is the way to go.

Ps.. my car was the s-box there, Porches, Ferrari, BMW, Merc, and some beautiful oldies like a Corvette and Mustang.

This guy really knows what he's doing. Nice bloke too.

A couple of weeks ago, probably from working too much.

Just before starting on the 32, but the last thing he needs is to stress about work. So i waited awhile before calling back.

Hes had many many well wishers and says hes a bit over it. I think heaps of people know him in the industry and motorsport.

Obviously has a lot of freinds, like i said, a nice bloke.

Maybe we could send him a get well soon card from SAU ACT, it would be nice, and unobtrusive.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

B N P is no more.

The guy that owned it bought Japspec Garage in mitchell.

That reminds me i gotta look and see if hes got something i want (2 rooms of bits apparently)

More than just two rooms mate. Pm with a list as there is a sale going on.

Bit of a story about my experience with ACT Brakes.

Today I had the hardline fittings flared for my hydraulic handbrake at ACT Brakes. They are terrible, I wouldn't recommend them at all.

First of all, they are very over priced. ABS in Fyshwick will flare the ends of hard brake line for $5.50 per flare, I like this shop and they do a good job, but their portable flaring tool was broken, so they could only flare hardline out of the car, not under the car like I needed.

ACT Brakes quoted $31.25 per flare! There were no other shops nearby to do the work, so I paid $125 to have the 4 flares done. Way way overpriced.

Secondly, when I arrived to pick my car up it was sitting outside in pouring rain with the two front windows down - both seats drenched and pools of water in the footwells (no carpet in my car)

Next, they said if I wanted the brakes bled it would cost a further $75, I said no and I will bleed them at home. When I picked the car up they said they bled them anyway, but the pedal goes flat to the floor, it was a very difficult drive home. Pretty poor that they couldn't even quickly bleed the brakes to a reasonable pedal feel, hydraulic handbrake or not they are supposed to be a brake shop.

Lastly, before I took the car in I drilled a hole in my transmission tunnel for the hardline to run through, I drilled a 13.5mm hole and put a rubber grommet in it - more than big enough for two pieces of hardline to run through. When I picked the car up, they had run 1 line through the hole with a grommet that I drilled, then they had drilled another hole next to it and didn't put a grommet, I left more grommets in the glovebox but I didn't know they were drilling a new hole and I forgot to tell them about the extra grommets. Either way, you would think a 'professional' brake shop would not leave a brake line running through a bare metal hole.

That's my rant. Overall, terrible experienced, shoddy work and very overpriced, I would not recommend these guys to anyone.

The ACT Brakes in Mitchell is well known for screwing people as they do a lot of rego inspections.

Pedders Belco is another bad one, most of the transmission shops in canberra etc etc.

Half the auto shops in Canberra are dodgy as.

Check out who has a good reputation and avoid all others.

Ps: Did you check out how much a flaring tool is? Or if one of us has one? I have pipe benders for that stuff. You got a drill and grommets....

Yep just as above ^ I had one lined up but that fell through at the last minute, needed to have it done in time for Wakefield this weekend.

I didn't post on any forums, I found out yesterday I couldn't use the tool I had arranged to so I started calling shops.

Flaring tools aren't that expensive but I needed a weird double flare, that is what makes the tools quite expensive (from what I found)

Pretty disappointing; I wonder how so many of these workshops stay in business.. perhaps all of their trade accounts?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is anyone running these axles? R32, R33, R34 GTR front Axles. shafts itself rated 950hp. Suit all RB26 engines Croydon, Melbourne, Victoria Would be nice to pay half the cost of Driveshaft Shop Axles. I'm building an AWD S13 Coupe that is very low ride height (high cv angle) compared to stock R32. Has an RB30 with appx 600whp. Just looking for feedback. Thanks, Josh- https://www.instagram.com/feng_shui_garage/
    • Been a long time since r31 got some love, my brother dropped a shitbox ls1 crapadore in my lap to fix up.  Put a wiper motor in as the flooded one was no longer alive.  got windscreen wipers now. Time to clean respray and install back in the titanic  IMG_0505.mov
    • Nah its a server spammer thing  Although, now that I manually approve all the accounts I can probably loosen up some of the restrictions.  
    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
×
×
  • Create New...