Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Championship Rounds, Results and Classes

CHAMPIONSHIP Results - TBA

2013 SAU Motorsport Club Championship Dates


PI 2nd Feb WRX

HH 2nd March WRX

Winton 14th April WRX

Sandown 25th May WRX

PI 16th June PIARC

AROCA
Sandown
Sunday, August 11
WRX
Calder
Saturday 21st September
WRX
Winton
November 2nd



2013 SAU Vic DECA Dates (Events run by Skylines Australia Vic)

March 16 Saturday Import Monster DECA round 1 -

June 1 Saturday Import Monster DECA round 2 -

August 31 Saturday Import Monster DECA round 3 -
November 9 Saturday Import Monster DECA round 4 -


2013 SAU Track Championship Classes are as follows:

Class A - Modified AWD
Class B - Standard AWD
Class C - Modified RWD
Class D - Standard RWD




Standard Class:
(List of Free Mods allowed in standard class)
Suspension - All
Brakes - All
Electronics (ECU, Boost Controllers) - All
Intercoolers - All
Pods
Wheels Sizes

Modified Classes:
(Any of these Mods will put you into modified class)

- R Spec Tyres / Slicks under a UTQG rating of 120 tread wear (not including 120)
- A stripped interior. Removal of rear seats only is allowed.
- Any other major weight reduction such as fibreglass doors or lexan windows
- Fuel Systems - Any two out of the following three modifications to either: 1.Injectors, 2.Fuel Pump, 3.Non OEM Turbo's, will put you into modified class. (I.E - Only one fuel system mod is allowed)
- non OEM Fuel Pressure Reg
- Non OEM Engine Capacities (GTST with RB26, RB30; GTR with 2.8L, etc)
- Driving a "supercar" (eg. Lamborghini, Ferrari, R35GTR, Porsche 911 Turbo, GT3, GT2, Veyron etc)
- Non OEM Aero


- Slicks are not Permitted in STD or MOD
Slicks include but are not limited to:
Hankook Ventus Z214
Kuhmo Ecsta V710
Hooiser R6



Standard Turbo Clarification
(RWD Standard Class)
RWD Standard can run any Nissan OEM turbo from any RB Skyline.
Highflowing of any of these RB OEM Nissan turbo's is allowed.

(GTR Standard Class)
Any of these turbo's are considered a standard spec replacement turbo and are not considered a turbo mod.
R32, R33, R34 N1's, HKS GT-SS's, Garrett GT2860r-7.

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Information for Beginners

Personal Requirements

- Safety helmet (AS1698 standard) in good condition (ie. free of dents and scratches).

- Gloves are optional.

- Leather or suede footwear must completely cover the foot and be firmly fitted. No sandals or thongs allowed.

- Driver apparel must cover the body from ankle to neck including up to the wrists. Long sleeved and flame-resistant clothing is mandatory. Wool is best but cotton overalls or trousers and shirts are also suitable. Race-type overalls are not necessary.

Driver Training - Is not absolutely required, but SAU recommends you make your first track day a driver training day. There is a lot to take in and you wont post a quick time on your first outing. Driver training sessions won't be timed and you will only be on the track with other driver training vehicles. You will have the chance to have an instructor with you, this will typically be another club member who has some track experience. Driver training costs slightly less than the normal sprint days (You wont get to compete in the super sprints at the end of the day)

If you choose to 'not' do driver training as your first event, just place yourself in a slow group and spent the first half of the day following slower cars and learning the racing lines before trying to go off on your own and improve times.

Phillip Island Sprints:

You can do driver training at Phillip Island as your first event, and if your instructor believes you are skilled enough he can allow you to participate in sprints after speaking to the clerk of course and making that recomendation.

If Phillip Island is your first 'sprint' event you will need to provide details of an advanced driver training certificate.

Vehicle Requirements

- Fire Extinguisher (AS1841, AS1846 or AS1848, Minimum of 900grams) Securely fastened with a metal bracket and reachable by the driver from the drivers seat.

- Valve Caps (Preferably metal)

- Boot / Cockpit - Must be free from all loose articles

- Headlights - Any forward facing glass must be covered by tape or contact (This only effects R31 and R32's in the Skyline Range)

- Roll Cages - Must be CAMS approved

- Bonnet Catches - All rear-hinged bonnets must have an additional independent non-flexible strap fitted. Permanent straps/pins attached to the bonnet are not necessary. It is acceptable to tie the bonnet down with light rope. Bonnet Pins are also accepted.

R-Spec Tyres Explained

Competition Street Legal Radial's (Dot Approved Semi - Competition)

In other words they are sticky / soft compound

List of known R Spec Tyres - UTQG

Bridgestone Potenza RE11S - 40

Bridgestone Potenza RE55 - 40

Bridgestone Potenza RE520S -

Yokohamma Advan A050 - 40AA

Yokohamma Advan A048 - 60AA

Yokohamma Advan A032R - 60AA

Dunlop D98J

Dunlop D01J

Dunlop D02J

Dunlop D03Z

Dunlop D93J

Toyo Proxes RA1 - 40AA

Toyo Proxes R888 - 50AA

BFG G Force T/A R1 - 0AA

Michelin Pilot Cup - 80AA

Hoosier A3S03/R3S04 - 40AC

Avon Tech R-A

Kumho VictoRacer V700 - 50AA

Kumho Ecsta V700 - 50AA

Pirelli P Zero C

Pirelli P Zero Corsa

Hankook Z209

Hankook Z211

Hankook Z221S

List of soft compound street tyres - UTQG

Federal 595RSR - 140AAA

Kuhmo KU36 - 180AAA

Yokohama Advan Neova AD08 - 180AAA

UTQG = Treadwear, Traction, Temperature

Treadwear - The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test track. A tire graded 200 would wear twice as long on the government test course under specified test conditions as one graded 100.

Traction - Traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B and C. They represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete.

Traction Grades Asphalt (g force) Concrete (g force)

AA - Above 0.54 - Above 0.41

A - Above 0.47 - Above 0.35

B - Above 0.38 - Above 0.26

C - Less Than 0.38 - Less Than 0.26

Temperature - The temperature grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B and C. These represent the tire's resistance to the generation of heat

Temperature Grades Speeds (in mph)

A - Over 115

B - Between 100 to 115

C - Between 85 to 100

Track Etiquette

Passing

It is the obligation of the passer (faster car) to make the pass. Do not erratically brake or move off the racing line without first signalling to the faster vehicle behind you.

Signaling

If you want a faster vehicle to pass you, signal with a clear hand pointing to the side on which you wish to be passed. If you want them to pass on the left, then signal over the roof of your vehicle. Do not use indicators to signal passing.

Flag Signals

Flags will be used at designated points around the circuits.

yellow_flag.gif The yellow flag signals a situation of danger ahead. Drivers must slow down and show extreme caution. Drivers may not overtake other vehicles until they have passed the green flag.

green_flag.gif All clear signal. It is used at the end of the danger area controlled by yellow flags. Drivers may continue on at race speed.

It can also be used to signal the start of a warm-up lap or practice session.

blue_flag.gif Overtaking signal. The blue flag informs the driver that he is about to overtaken by one or more faster cars. When the flag is waved, it draws the driver’s attention either to the closeness of the car about to overtake him, or to the high speed at which it is approaching. The blue flag can be shown motionless when the faster car is still some distance away but approaching quickly.

red_flag.gif Stopping the race. The red flag will be shown at all posts on the circuit when the Clerk of the Course has decided to stop the race or practice session due to a hazard effecting the course. All drivers must stop racing immediately and proceed to the pit area. Drivers must exercise extreme caution and being prepared to stop if necessary and be aware of the possability of support vehicles on the track.

black_flag.gif Return to the pit area. The black flag is usually shown at the Start / Finish line by the Clerk of Course or his marshal. The flag will be shown whilst your vehicle is being pointed at. This informs the driver they must return to the pit area immediately and report to the Clerk of Course.

checkered_flag.gif Denotes end of session. Use the remaining lap to cool the car and return to the pit area.

Championship Scoring & Points System

SAU Track Championship

Full points for THREE(3) or more people in class

1st Fastest time in Class - 10 Points

2nd Fastest time in Class - 6 Points

3rd Fastest time in Class - 4 Points

4th Fastest time in Class - 3 Points

5th Fastest time in Class - 2 Points

6th Fastest time in Class - 1 Point

7th and below = 0 Points

Partial points for less than THREE(3) people in class (as per note below) **

1st = 6 points

2nd = 4 Points

** There needs to be at least 3 people representing a class in each round for maximum points to be scored, otherwise 1st can only receive a maximum score equal to 2nd place which is 6 Points.

Notes:

1. One championship round is able to be dropped from the score before a total is achieved, this will be the worst scoring round from the entrant, or an event not attended.

DECA Rounds

Each Sub-Event of the Event will be scored individually.

Points will be awarded in order of finishing from highest to lowest as follows:

1st = 50 points,

2nd = 49 points,

3rd = 48 points,

4th = 47 points etc, and so on down to the last competitor.

All points from each sub event are accumulated and a total is created with the highest score winning. Classes are AWD and RWD.

Penalties:

Hit Cone (Make a cone move from it's spot) = +5 Seconds Per Cone

Missed Gate/Cone (Wrong Direction) = No Score - Nil points.

Did Not Finish = No Score - Nil points

Did Not Start = No Score - Nil points

DECA Trophies:

Each round:

– 1st AWD

- 1st 2WD

Championship:

- 1st Outright, 2nd Outright, 3rd Outright.

- 1st AWD, 2nd AWD, 3rd AWD

- 1st 2WD, 2nd 2WD, 3rd 2WD

I'm going to say they will put you outside modified as per the rules "include, but no limited to".

As to whether you can actually run them at a track day, that will be up to the club running the day.

I've seen these run on caged and non-caged cars previously. Though as a generally accepted rule, SAU VIC strongly suggests that anyone looking at running this type of tyre have at a minimum a CAMS approved half cage.

  • 1 month later...

Proposed Motorsport for 2013

PI 2nd Feb WRX

HH 2nd March WRX

Winton 14th April WRX

Sandown 6th May AROCA

PI 16th June PIARC

July NO DATE BRAKE

Sandown TBA August WRX

Calder TBA September WRX

October NO DATE BRAKE

Sandown END OF YEAR REXMAS

So everyone running E85 is in the modified class due to fuel pump + injectors both needing upgrade?

Just trying to work out if there is a way to go E85 and remain standard class.

Edited by jukic.j

Rules state:

Pump and injectors = modified.

So that means modified as you can't run E85 without.

No point running E85 on stock turbos anyway(to stay in stock class), your limited by boost/airflow - not fuel.

Also you need to be a Vic member to actually be eligible for points/cship.

Rules state:

Pump and injectors = modified.

So that means modified as you can't run E85 without.

No point running E85 on stock turbos anyway(to stay in stock class), your limited by boost/airflow - not fuel.

Also you need to be a Vic member to actually be eligible for points/cship.

My turbo has been high-flowed by GCG but i'm not sure on specifics does that probably change the restriction?

I am a SAU VIC member btw.

And fuel pump :thumbsup:

So realistically to make use of a larger turbo - you need a fuel pump, as injectors run out around 230rwkw and stock pumps never last over 200rwkw in a gts-t without leaning out (on PULP, so E85 no chance). So its pretty obvious if someone has changed it ;)

That means modified class either way (as no-one is silly enough to run a stock pump and risk a motor blowing).

you can however you cannot run full slicks without a cams approved cage, so street tyres and semis are ok.

Has scrutineering ever stopped anyone and asked them to unbolt/remove a dodgy cage?

They seem to be struggling with extinguisher dates.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...