Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 347
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

there is nothing wrong with the aussie 6's. i've owned a few over the years and they are nice to drive, go well and are cheap to run/maintain. i currently have a vt wagon that i drive 130kms a day to and from work. it's about to click over 260,000kms. i've done 60,000kms in the 2 years i've owned it. hasn't missed a beat other than the aircon needing regassing, and when i busted a clip on the fuel filter (my fault not the cars)

ive got 10 grand saved up. Could buy an N/A liner or xr6 and just wait i gues.

if you dont have a turbo then you need some cubes, atleast 3L's and somthing not too heavy

personally id go somthing cheap until i could get a turbo, some options - EL tickford fairmont, 3L supra, VL calais, VS/VX calias,

and id have some fun with basic mods and the drags

As everyone has previously said, yes NA Skylines are slower than a wet week and will get dusted in a straight line by pretty much everything on the road. If i had to abide by P Platers rules I would buy a BA/BF XR6. Alot quicker in a straight line than an NA Skyline (R32-R34). They also give standard/Mildly modded gtst's a run for their money. They also handle pretty damn good too...

However, I have owned an R34 25gt for over 5 years, I took it on many drift days and with the right modifications (2way Diff and coilovers) it was fine. It was no smoke machine but I was still able to link corners with no trouble.

I eventually saw the light and did an engine conversion

As everyone has previously said, yes NA Skylines are slower than a wet week and will get dusted in a straight line by pretty much everything on the road. If i had to abide by P Platers rules I would buy a BA/BF XR6. Alot quicker in a straight line than an NA Skyline (R32-R34). They also give standard/Mildly modded gtst's a run for their money. They also handle pretty damn good too...

However, I have owned an R34 25gt for over 5 years, I took it on many drift days and with the right modifications (2way Diff and coilovers) it was fine. It was no smoke machine but I was still able to link corners with no trouble.

I eventually saw the light and did an engine conversion

thats impressive man, props.

i think and xr6 will be the way to go. Atleast until im off my p's

+1 for the XR6 (or SV6).

Cheap, fast in a straight line, comfortable for road trips, and it won't attract as much unwanted attention. Safer too, and it'll help prepare you for the fuel bill of a turbo when you're off your P's. :yes:

The big back seat could come in handy too...

If you could find one with a decent injected LPG system, that would be even better.

Edited by BuuBox

25 na for daily driving goes not bad, not quick though, bang per buck is prob what people are talking about, hate to say it but in that position i'd prob go for the xr6 or sv6 too :whistling:

If you want to go fast in a straight line go and buy and te tf cortina and mod the hell out of the 250 xflow.... Fastest P Plate car IMO

(But DEFINETLY not as comfy as the formerly mentioned xr6, but low 13s are achievable for not a huge investment)

Don't understand all the hate on na's. I've found mine to be pretty much even with other p plater cars. Compared to a mates vy it's only a tad slower in a straight line but once were in the twisties I leave him for dead. Straight line speed isn't as fun as cornering speed imo.

Also on the cop issue I never got pulled over once in a year of driving around except once where I was stupid and deserved

Don't understand all the hate on na's. I've found mine to be pretty much even with other p plater cars. Compared to a mates vy it's only a tad slower in a straight line but once were in the twisties I leave him for dead. Straight line speed isn't as fun as cornering speed imo.

Also on the cop issue I never got pulled over once in a year of driving except once where I was stupid and deserved it

Edited by drunkn snail

Don't understand all the hate on na's. I've found mine to be pretty much even with other p plater cars. Compared to a mates vy it's only a tad slower in a straight line but once were in the twisties I leave him for dead. Straight line speed isn't as fun as cornering speed imo.

Also on the cop issue I never got pulled over once in a year of driving except once where I was stupid and deserved it

With coilovers yes they Handel well...

With coilovers yes they Handel well...

Mine with unknown lowered suspension still feels like it handles well enough. Wouldn't coilovers be too stiff for mountain roads considering there bumpy as shit unless on something like the black spur

i had a mate at a tyre shop get me some new shocks for my 180sx i used to have. he got me a set of coilovers of a mate of his and put them in (no idea on spring rate, but my guess is that it was high). 2 days later i had him remove them and get me some normal shocks to use with my springs. going around a rough corner just up the road from home at normal speed (about 40kmh) i started to bounce onto the wrong side of the road. i had to go round the corner 15kmh an hour slower than normal to stay on the right side of the road. realistically speaking, the max speed i could go round that corner without losing control with the coil overs was about 35kmh. with the stock shocks and normal lowered springs would've been about 65kmh. everytime i see people in s13's, etc bouncing around on relatively smooth roads i always wonder whether they just bought the suspension because they had just seen it used on a car in a magazine or some pro drift car and have no idea about suspension (which is usually the case).

I just helped my cousin put coilovers in his 32 today, I told him when he bought them that 14kg was way to hard for street but he knew better...or he does now after trying to drive over a mountain today and giving up because it was un-drivable.

i had a mate at a tyre shop get me some new shocks for my 180sx i used to have. he got me a set of coilovers of a mate of his and put them in (no idea on spring rate, but my guess is that it was high). 2 days later i had him remove them and get me some normal shocks to use with my springs. going around a rough corner just up the road from home at normal speed (about 40kmh) i started to bounce onto the wrong side of the road. i had to go round the corner 15kmh an hour slower than normal to stay on the right side of the road. realistically speaking, the max speed i could go round that corner without losing control with the coil overs was about 35kmh. with the stock shocks and normal lowered springs would've been about 65kmh. everytime i see people in s13's, etc bouncing around on relatively smooth roads i always wonder whether they just bought the suspension because they had just seen it used on a car in a magazine or some pro drift car and have no idea about suspension (which is usually the case).

They were prob bad coilovers, I've had HSD, BC sports and teins before and they have all been fine on the street, no bouncing. Depending on who put them in maybe they were on the bump stops? That would cause very bad handling, Ive seen it before where guys lower the spring platform instead of the base of the coilover (some dont have this though) and you basically sit on the bump stops.

For a street car you dont need anymore then 6-8kg springs in a skyline, no point going stiffer.

definitely wasn't sitting on bump stops as they were set up pretty high (i'm not one of those people who have the tyres scrubbing on the guards, i like my cars practical). he knew what he was doing. they were simply too stiff. i should point out that this was about 8 years ago now, so the range of coilovers around back then was much smaller, and these were an ordinary set even back then. my mate wasn't overly happy with them even before he put them in, so he wasn't too fussed when i got him to take them out.

definitely wasn't sitting on bump stops as they were set up pretty high (i'm not one of those people who have the tyres scrubbing on the guards, i like my cars practical). he knew what he was doing. they were simply too stiff. i should point out that this was about 8 years ago now, so the range of coilovers around back then was much smaller, and these were an ordinary set even back then. my mate wasn't overly happy with them even before he put them in, so he wasn't too fussed when i got him to take them out.

sounds like my teins, hahaha.. must be 10kgs or more, i bounce around a little but when i bought them i had no idea what was what.. lol

I just helped my cousin put coilovers in his 32 today, I told him when he bought them that 14kg was way to hard for street but he knew better...or he does now after trying to drive over a mountain today and giving up because it was un-drivable.

14!haha, the ve sv6 i had handled well too for it's size, it was fairly thirsty for a daily, and had the 'system malfunction' warning coming up when sold it :whistling:

Edited by WMDC35

Mine with unknown lowered suspension still feels like it handles well enough. Wouldn't coilovers be too stiff for mountain roads considering there bumpy as shit unless on something like the black spur

I run tien ha coilovers in mine and have them set to back breaking stiffness. Down a mountain pass it was every bit as quick as my mates turbos.... But coming back up was a different story

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...