Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Skyline N/as arent slow - yes they are 16 second quarters are slow

they pretty much win in both straight lines and tracks - no they don't, most v6 commos will beat an NA skyline over a 1/4 mile (don't believe me go to your local drag strip and watch it yourself)

They beat most N/as out there - what!? :dry:

Thats what i said, Ba and Vz onwards beats N/a skylines (195+kw/1.6tonne vs 140kw/1.4tonne obviously, ), all the commies and falcons prior to that lose, ive raced my mates vt, mates au, mates el falcon, mates vy, so many and won against all of them. Only car i didnt win was against the EL falcon xr6. Funny thing is i bet the au xr6 and kept up with a au xr8. Every other car in its time loses, and i know that for sure since ive won every race against them. Dont get me started on honda accords, mazda 3s and 6s, magnas (non vrx), camrys, bmw z4 etc, n/a beats them all. When i said it beats most N/a's out there, i was talking about all v6s and 4cyls. Theres only a few that do beat the skyline n/a and that is vrx magna, aurion, newer gen commies and falcons, civic/prelude/integra vtecs, a 150,000 dollar bmer, 370z, 350z, golf gti etc.

  • Replies 347
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

And all these races have time slips for proof right.... :whistling:

haha naa but just making a point that they arent slow as people say they are, its a massive exaggeration, making it sound like its slower than a yaris or something. Its not like 90% of p platers will be racing on tracks anyways, its quick in enough for our driving skill level and enjoyment, Anything faster and we'd all be dead. We're all just entry level enthusiasts after all (although alot of p plates think they are paul walker once they get their liscence). And the fact that i actually pull away from some of these n/a's is satisfying enough for me, i really wish i could give you some proof. Ill be upgrading to an evo some time this year anyway so theres nothing biased here, just trying to make a point.

3.5L v6 magna will hose a NA skyline. hell i beat a r33 gts-t at willowbank in mine. 14.8 second 1/4 with just a cat back. pretty rare to see a NA skyline get into the 14's without serious work done.

and the earlier model commodores and falcons, such as the EL and VS are actually quicker than a lot of the new models thanks to being lighter (not much heavier than a skyline, similar power, but a lot more torque). so while you may have beaten your mates, that is a small group to say that they will beat all of them everytime. for starters, someone who can get a better launch in the skyline will beat someone who gets a crap launch in the others. plus if you are in a manual and they are all autos then that will skew the results as well. manual vs manual and the skyline will lose everytime. plenty of 4 cylinder cars will keep up or beat NA skylines as well.

it's all well and good to show support for the car you love, but those of us saying that NA skylines aren't that fast are generally people who aren't green eyed skyline fans and are willing to acknowledge that in the real world, they aren't the best thing since sliced bread. in the same way that if i won lotto and was going to blow a heap of money on a car, a r35 gtr wouldn't even get test driven. i'd buy other cars without test driving them, but wouldn't even waste my time test driving one. well maybe i would simply to annoy people who dream of owning/driving one. but i wouldn't buy one

Lol. Another one of these. And more Magna love......Magna's are boring, FWD and all damaged as they are driven by people who don't like or care about cars

3L n/a supra will eat them all.

Fools in s2000's?

Oh, and my old '58 beetle. Which is sub 2 litre and n/a could beat anything up to the vx-vy 6 cyl commos...so it's not the best comparo

Cross flow cortina, P PLATERS DO THIS! (You'll beat a lot of turbo skylines with simple mods :) )

Cortina FTW, a guy I knew had one with the straight six and 4 speed manual, went very well for what it was, sounded tough to.

Cortina FTW, a guy I knew had one with the straight six and 4 speed manual, went very well for what it was, sounded tough to.

My old mans TF cortina cross flow ran a 13.8 at 99mph, Natro straight six :)

3.5L v6 magna will hose a NA skyline. hell i beat a r33 gts-t at willowbank in mine. 14.8 second 1/4 with just a cat back. pretty rare to see a NA skyline get into the 14's without serious work done.

and the earlier model commodores and falcons, such as the EL and VS are actually quicker than a lot of the new models thanks to being lighter (not much heavier than a skyline, similar power, but a lot more torque). so while you may have beaten your mates, that is a small group to say that they will beat all of them everytime. for starters, someone who can get a better launch in the skyline will beat someone who gets a crap launch in the others. plus if you are in a manual and they are all autos then that will skew the results as well. manual vs manual and the skyline will lose everytime. plenty of 4 cylinder cars will keep up or beat NA skylines as well.

Sorry if i sounded like a fanboy, i was just pointing out that its not the slowest n/a car in the world, not the fastet either.

My dad owned 2 magna's for the past 20 years, they're great cars (apart from those oil leaks and transmission problem at 200,000ks), a little disappointed that they stopped making them. I was looking into getting the mitsubishi galant vr4 before getting my licence, settled for a N/a r33 after p plate laws kicked in. Decided to go with the evo for my next car, wouldnt mind a gto either.

As for the cars i raced, my car is an auto as well, not manual. All the manuals i was interested in were either thrashed or turbo'd. You're right in saying the older falcons and commies are quicker than some of the newer ones, el is quicker than au's, Vn is quicker than the VZ. Ive actually witnessed races between these cars. They go so much harder off the line, however vz does tend to catch up in the long run since it becomes a all horsepower race. My r33 falls behind a vn commodore which is sad since my mate bought his VN for 900 while i paid 10k for my car. But being a owner of an n/a i can definitely say that i dont have any regrets buying my n/a r33, its served me well.

My r33 falls behind a vn commodore which is sad since my mate bought his VN for 900 while i paid 10k for my car. But being a owner of an n/a i can definitely say that i dont have any regrets buying my n/a r33, its served me well.

woah 10k for a auto na 33 is bloody expensive

woah 10k for a auto na 33 is bloody expensive

Naa maybe for a series 1 but mine is a series 2 coupe, had 50,000ks on the clock, imacculate condition, looked brand new, Came with Sparco rims and GTR spoiler. Compared to all the other skylines, it was a pretty good buy, if you look on car sales right now (as a reference) you wont find any n/a coupe 1996 onwards under 100,000ks for less than 10k both auto and manual, Maybe a 4 door, turbo'd or series 1 but not series 2 coupe. Also i bought this car 3 years ago.

Incase you think im lieing have a browse and link me an r33 with similar specs to mine (excluding the sparco rims and gtr spoiler) for under 10k n/a. =)

http://www.carsales....ge=Year:Min,Max

Edited by Deza3000

R33's aren't too bad against commo's and falcon auto's that haven't had too much work done. Mate of mine has a R33 GTS with a catback and was side by side with a 5spd VR V6 with catback. However put them up against a newer manual commo or falcon and they get creamed. Yes JZA80 Supra's are quicker than natro skylines, especially the 6spd SZ-R versions they go alright. Just putting it out there, i race at the drags regularly and have raced almost every car mentioned here.

Naa maybe for a series 1 but mine is a series 2 coupe, had 50,000ks on the clock, imacculate condition, looked brand new, Came with Sparco rims and GTR spoiler. Compared to all the other skylines, it was a pretty good buy, if you look on car sales right now (as a reference) you wont find any n/a coupe 1996 onwards under 100,000ks for less than 10k both auto and manual, Maybe a 4 door, turbo'd or series 1 but not series 2 coupe. Also i bought this car 3 years ago.

Incase you think im lieing have a browse and link me an r33 with similar specs to mine (excluding the sparco rims and gtr spoiler) for under 10k n/a. =)

http://www.carsales....ge=Year:Min,Max

you can get n/a 32's for like 5k...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1680, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...