Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 347
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

parts mainly, specfically suspension parts that tend to flog out on our shitty roads, and stuff that breaks on 20 year old cars that needs to be procured from specialist wreckers.

Also finding a mechanic who wants to work on imports ($$$ or incompetence, your pick)

Trust me, I've owned both. Not comparing fuel usage as my R32 had a Microtech and bigger turbo, 'nuff said.

I doubt I'd get better fuel economy from an N/A skyline than my LS though (10l/100 or so mostly highway)

farrr less can go wrong in an n/a compared to a turbo. But yes if something does it isn't overly cheap. I did once make it from renmark (SA) to canberra on 1 tank however...

Just leaving this here :)

Not siding with anybody nor saying which is faster or better but read a few pages of LOLs

I have never even owned a skyline :P

Haha u think I wouldn't say this to your face.... You make me laugh (refer to fitness threads for pics and then please be quite)

I would say anything to your face! But I promise to say nice things if you don't leave me behind on mountain passes again...

Just leaving this here :)

Not siding with anybody nor saying which is faster or better but read a few pages of LOLs

I would say anything to your face! But I promise to say nice things if you don't leave me behind on mountain passes again...

Haha i wasnt going to mention that in here but yes ill try and keep the mountain passes to an aceptable speed (once the lofty shocks go in my car my mountain pass days will be over anyway lol)

and you can say whatever you want to me We TSO bros haha :wub:

Edited by Captain Natro

^ LOL.

Because "everyone" has to win a street race or drift event on public roads...

Just like Paul Walker or Vin Diesel ;)

Edited by iseekool

Most of the testosterone getting flung round is by you. You are the one getting super defensive and insisting we all know nothing unless we prove it. Hell you even made a thinly veiled threat of violence.

I don't need to prove myself to someone with a superiority complex, so you feel free to continue on thinking i am just talking out my arse. And yes i would glady say any of this to your face.

lol clearly just wanted your 2cents as i havent said sh*t in this thread cept for above....

just making your self look like a git

marc, i think you replied to the wrong person. Fryters, not Frosty

Just leaving this here :)

Not siding with anybody nor saying which is faster or better but read a few pages of LOLs

I have never even owned a skyline :P

I would say anything to your face! But I promise to say nice things if you don't leave me behind on mountain passes again...

Oh look! Some more evidence that na's take skill to drift over high powered cars. This time from 2 d1 world champs

But I mut be talking out my ass and an 'na fanboy' whatever that is?

Im telling you guys, my dick is bigger!

This thread has lost all that could have been salvaged!

Why are natro kids always so defensive? Just like vtec plebs

Read the first few pages, you'll see that most of us were talking based on personal experience, no one was getting defensive. Fryters stated: n/a cars arent that bad, they are fun to drift. I stated, it was pretty quick in its time, up against other cars in the 1990s it did win a bit of races, todays standards are much higher etc etc.. It was from there all the others started challenging our word and having a go at us, saying things like "N/as have no respect", "who buys a n/a skyline", "rb25 n/a is terrible, if rb30s are slow rb25 must be", "why buy a n/a when you can buy a stroked rotary" etc. They laughed at whatever opinion we gave that was in favor of the n/a skyline. It felt like their goal was just to ridicule us cause they drive twin turbo gtrs, xr6ts etc... while we cruise in a n/a. Some people made valid points, others such as fryters was provoked.

Read the first few pages, you'll see that most of us were talking based on personal experience, no one was getting defensive. Fryters stated: n/a cars arent that bad, they are fun to drift. I stated, it was pretty quick in its time, up against other cars in the 1990s it did win a bit of races, todays standards are much higher etc etc.. It was from there all the others started challenging our word and having a go at us, saying things like "N/as have no respect", "who buys a n/a skyline", "rb25 n/a is terrible, if rb30s are slow rb25 must be", "why buy a n/a when you can buy a stroked rotary" etc. They laughed at whatever opinion we gave that was in favor of the n/a skyline. It felt like their goal was just to ridicule us cause they drive twin turbo gtrs, xr6ts etc... while we cruise in a n/a. Some people made valid points, others such as fryters was provoked.

You know what's up, thanks man

Lol, I didnt say anything about n/a's on this thread.

Jeez you natro boys need to relax. Maybe you get so frustrated because those sv6's stomp you that you have to jump on the internet and defend your slow punk ass

The only slow thing is you, I have said like 10times now I don't care about power or speed, I wouldn't like na's if I did...

So you're not caring about power or speed right?

Because if you did, you wouldn't buy an N/A right?

Which is you saying, I bought an N/A knowing it had no power or capability for speed.

In essence, I bought an N/A knowing it was slow.

In other words, you just admitted that N/As are slow, yet you're arguing against this in a thread asking "Are N/As slow?"

Please note: Everyone has admitted you can drift them, you can drift many other extremely under powered cars too, yet you're still arguing for some unknown reason.

Am I arguing?

And the thread is are n/a's slow or is everyone talking out their ass. N/a's are slow, but all of you, talk out your asses about what their capabilities are, when you have never really driven one to their limits.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...