Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

need a lil help guys, was driving the gtr just cruising at 60 changed gears nice n slow n I felt a funny twitch in the clutch pedal and then next time I pushed the clutch is was a lot heavier all of sudden.

pulled over check the fluid levels all looks ok, then I noticed when I got back in it every time I pushed the clutch it was making a noise like gas escaping. This was in the car not under the bonnet.

so I hear this is possibly a vacuum leak in the booster? anyone got any other ideas?

anyways I drove it home and it felt fine aside from the weird noise and being heavier clutch than normal, went into gear fine no crunch.

What im wondering is, is this doing any damage to the clutch? I have the nismo coppermix twinplate so I don’t wanna stuff it up but its normally light as a feather and id actually prefer a heavier clutch pedal.

o and this car is starting to p me off

Edited by Inline 6

Sounds like a throw out bearing... Or more likely a split in the clutch vacuum booster pot steel casing...

Check and see if the noise is coming from the clutch pedal pivot area.. With the pedal getting heavy though I would say that it is the booster...

I hope it is nothing worse than that...

:)

It's gotta be the booster Dan. If it was anything else it would be crunching/notching gears. I wouldn't expect it to be doing any damage to the clutch.

Edited by dark.sky

Get the standard one welded up strong, nismo one is standard with som tack welds to reinforce......

Yeah my mechanic took it out and seem welded it and put a strengthening plate as well... much cheaper than going aftermarket lol

G'day, looking for a little help/advice..

I've been out of the loop when it comes to parts prices and just wanted to know what you guys think. I'm looking to buy a r33 rip the motor and box and replace it with my built stuff. Question is; what are r33 s2 motors + boxes worth now days. Am I dreaming thinking I could get $3000 for both including loom and clutch? Are they still moving fairly quickly or are people not buying them? When I bought mine 4+ years ago, I paid $3500.. I want to know this before I buy the 33 so i know weather or not its a viable option..

Cheers!

Yeah as mentioned above ^^^ best bet is to call a couple of wreckers or import specialists wreckers a call and find out how much all that kit is worth these days. It will give you at least a ball park figure to work with.

Was driving today and this happened, its the left side bracket on a R33 GTR drivers seat. You might also notice it has been welded in 3 places by the previous owner haha. Anyone else had this happen to them?

SeatBracket-2.jpg

Also I swapped the passenger side bracket over to this so i can get around, anyone know if a gts seat will have the same bracket?

someone buy my old GTR and give it a good home;

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/ridgehaven/cars-vans-utes/nissan-skyline-r32-gt-r/1014576914

runs 10's:)

.. it's a shame YOU never ran a 10 in it :D :D :D

G'day, looking for a little help/advice..

I've been out of the loop when it comes to parts prices and just wanted to know what you guys think. I'm looking to buy a r33 rip the motor and box and replace it with my built stuff. Question is; what are r33 s2 motors + boxes worth now days. Am I dreaming thinking I could get $3000 for both including loom and clutch? Are they still moving fairly quickly or are people not buying them? When I bought mine 4+ years ago, I paid $3500.. I want to know this before I buy the 33 so i know weather or not its a viable option..

Cheers!

Pretty sure you are dreaming - RB26s can be had for that sort of money (I sold one on behalf of my brother-in-law for well under $3k 2 years ago). Generally RB25s hover around the $1,500-$2k mark - maybe a bit more incl. the loom, and if the clutch is decent. But you never know - selling 2nd hand parts is a funny business - sometimes you can barely give things away, and other times you could have sold a thing 10 times over for mor cash then you got.

Pretty sure you are dreaming - RB26s can be had for that sort of money (I sold one on behalf of my brother-in-law for well under $3k 2 years ago). Generally RB25s hover around the $1,500-$2k mark - maybe a bit more incl. the loom, and if the clutch is decent. But you never know - selling 2nd hand parts is a funny business - sometimes you can barely give things away, and other times you could have sold a thing 10 times over for mor cash then you got.

Yeh I was saying 3k with complete motor (inc. loom, clutch, everything) AND box. I think $1800 for engine and $1200 for box is fairly reasonable.

I know what you mean, I've sold plenty of parts and its just a matter of who wants what at the time. I remember when buying my 25, everyone wanted one. I got mine at $1900 and that was a steal!

Was driving today and this happened, its the left side bracket on a R33 GTR drivers seat. You might also notice it has been welded in 3 places by the previous owner haha. Anyone else had this happen to them?

SeatBracket-2.jpg

Also I swapped the passenger side bracket over to this so i can get around, anyone know if a gts seat will have the same bracket?

oh snap!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...