Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Not sure if this has been covered before or not properly (did search), I basically just want to know if stock 33 gtst brakes with decent pads/rotors/lines are good enough for light track days?

I don't want to upgrade to Brembo's or d2's/ksports if its not really required, Im not going to be diong alot of track work, maybe 2-3 track days a year at winton plus deca's.

I would love to upgrade rotors only to GTR and use the stock calipers but know one makes the adaptors besides uas ($350+).

Let me know what you guys think before I start buying rotors and pads.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417146-potential-of-stock-33-gtst-brakes/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

for light track days they are fine...Ive been punting around a few track days with 300kws still on the factory fitted discs from 93. With just some braided lines, better brake fluid and pads.If you can get some ducting in to help cool them would be good and aim for a softer compound pad that wont destroy your rotors and they will last longer than you think..

my times aren't killer but they are respectable and I can fly down the straights which is still awesome fun..just have to brake a bit earlier than the guys with good brakes ;)

A cheap upgrade like some RDA slotted rotors and some new pads will help a fair bit for the price.

It's about all I have and my brakes feel really good. Obviously not going to be stopping like a Formula 1 car, but still pretty damn good :)

They are absolutely fine. I ran stock brakes on my 33 gtst for about 3 years of track days. The trick is to run good tyres, plus I didn't have a lot of power. And a dot5 fluid like motul rbf600.

On the other hand, the d2 kit is very cheap and performs very well....keeping in mind it comes with pads, rotors and braided lines, and the rotors are 2 piece so cheaper to replace when that does come up

They are absolutely fine. I ran stock brakes on my 33 gtst for about 3 years of track days. The trick is to run good tyres, plus I didn't have a lot of power. And a dot5 fluid like motul rbf600.

On the other hand, the d2 kit is very cheap and performs very well....keeping in mind it comes with pads, rotors and braided lines, and the rotors are 2 piece so cheaper to replace when that does come up

I was amazed how much difference putting on a well used set of 03Gs dunlops made to my stopping...:yes: even when cold they just dig in...

I think some simple air guides would help quite a lot. Coupled with a cross-over pad like DS2500 or A1RM pads. Next step would be HC+ pads, which can be driven on the street (weekend car).

GKTech have the R33 adapters to 324mm back on the drawing board. ;)

With decent tyres you won't have to wipe off so much speed for corner entry. The brakes are probably good enough for most Aussie tracks for R33 up to 250-260rwkw, with appropriate pads.

Edited by simpletool

If your std rotors are fine thickness wise then dont upgrade them. The std rotors are better than most aftermarket rotors you will throw on so dont waste your money. IF they are undersized then replace them with whatever generic rotor you can get cheaply.

THE BIGGEST change you will do to your brakes is the pad you run. Do you have ABS and do you like realy bitey pads or do you like needing a lot of pedal effort? Something up spec like Endless CCX will go a long way to giving you braking feel and bight you didnt think possible with std brakes, which when combined with good fluid makes a big difference.

If your lines are in good nic dont bother with braided lines as they are an expense you can live without. f youc an do all the labour yourself and get good braided lines cheaply then throw them on...but dont spend $500 on them through a workshop as whilst they are a good thing...that money is better spent elsewhere on the car...ie tyres

Thanks for the replies.

My car has ABS which while good for the street is prob not the best for the track, or so I've heard.

I need to measure my rotors, hopefully they can take machine and just replace the pads and lines, I would really like to use the 324mm rotors, just sucks theres no brackets for them yet to make it worth the $$$.

Has anyone heard of TRW pads? I saw a set on ebay, there only $130 or so and the guy said there almost as good as red stuff''s for light track work just half the price.

Could get 32mm rotors to fit, but then may as well just buy a big brake kit anyway

No, that's not the problem. The problem is the length of the caliper legs is different. If you put R33 calieprs onto the dogbones intended for R32/S15 calipers, then you need something like 340mm rotors.

Thanks for the replies.

My car has ABS which while good for the street is prob not the best for the track, or so I've heard.

I need to measure my rotors, hopefully they can take machine and just replace the pads and lines, I would really like to use the 324mm rotors, just sucks theres no brackets for them yet to make it worth the $$$.

Has anyone heard of TRW pads? I saw a set on ebay, there only $130 or so and the guy said there almost as good as red stuff''s for light track work just half the price.

intima pads are awesome for the money, actually prefer them over most of the others

No, that's not the problem. The problem is the length of the caliper legs is different. If you put R33 calieprs onto the dogbones intended for R32/S15 calipers, then you need something like 340mm rotors.

Even better, bigger rotors :yes:

just buy direct from gktech online?

Yeah I just got them online, good service too answered all my questions

http://www.gktech.com/index.php/s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-braided-brake-lines-front-rear-set-intro-price.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
×
×
  • Create New...