Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Another job that I just did over this long weekend on my new car that I just got. Used meguiars NXT wash followed by contours clay bar, scholls s3 cutt scholls s30 polish and finished it off with contours drift coat wax.

post-50426-0-21709200-1398060644_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-98715000-1398060705_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-75247900-1398060989_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-69455100-1398061274_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-62430900-1398061312_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-60815200-1398061515_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-76271600-1398061577_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-37812700-1398061867_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

I finally picked up some simple green and attacked the engine bay!

Worked amazingly well if I say so myself =D

attachicon.gifb41low.jpg attachicon.gifb42low.jpg

attachicon.gifaftr1low.jpg attachicon.gifaftr2low.jpg

thats is amazing man...good work...

was that a spray on spray off job, or lots of rags and elbow grease??

i ahve an engine to work on as well, might give it a try...

here a quick before after shot of a panel I'm working on atm

DSCN1160_zps0ca210cd.jpg

DSCN1159_zps9b0a62d0.jpg

  • Like 1

was that a spray on spray off job, or lots of rags and elbow grease??

Thanks!

There was a little bit of elbow grease but nothing to complain about. Spray simple green on, let it sit for ~10 secs, wipe over the spot a couple of times with a rag then hose off. At the very end I got the compressor out and dried everything. The green almost seems to 'lift' the grease from the paint, so you literally just wipe it off once it's been soaking for a few secs.

That's an awesome polish job, it's so clear at first I thought you had taken a photo of the lamp and the red was lens flare :P

Hey which simple green product did you use...i saw them at bunnings but there was a few different products most of which were kitchen cleaners and such...didnt see any degreasers of any sort...

bought a bottle of this Ooomph shit instead...sprayed on and hosed off...seemed to work ok...

cars coming along :)

DSCN1174_zps444393fd.jpg

Here is some work I have done on my mk3 supra, I am a little behind on the latest products but the gear I have seems to be working well.

I got stuck into some polish work on the paint, at some stage the car has been resprayed but had not seen polish for a few years, all the paint had gone very chalky, if you run your fingers over it you would end up with white finger tips.
So I had a play around on the front guard with some hand polishing, first I hit it with a clay bar and then some ultimate cut.
IMG_3682.jpg
Then I decided to get serious, I bought a proper random orbit machine from a detail supplier, this is the results on the roof after wet sanding and polish, im still yet to finish the car but you get the idea.
IMG_3897.jpg
This is the wet sanding pads I bought
20130107_131602.jpg
Heres what I started with
IMG_3966_zps824a5129.jpg
so first up I wet sanded with the 3000 grit disc on my RO machine, I know the paint is thick so I can get away with the wet sanding first, heres my machine fitted with the disc
20130408_155001_zps854d6029.jpg
next comes a lake country wool pad with menzerna 500
20130408_155700_zpsda613e24.jpg
followed by maguires ultimate cut compound on a lake country orange pad, the photo shows the amount of polish required when using this system.
IMG_3943_zpsef204efe.jpg
next is the finishing pass using lake country black pad with menzerna 4000
IMG_3955_zpsd0069360.jpg
And finally a wax to protect it, for this I use colinite 845
IMG_3960_zpsedc22404.jpg
Its important to mask it up as this is messy work and you can spend hours cleaning the trim pieces up
tapeup_zps1107e448.jpg
And finally the finished waxed panel, I find white is a bugger to photograph but there is a significant change in the finish of the paint, This panel took around an 1 1/2 hours to refinish to my standard but the results are worth it.
finishquarter_zps256bb951.jpg
20130409_114931_zpse7019788.jpg

Engine bay before and after, using simple green and a tooth brush followed with a coat of basic polish.

At the start
IMG_3652.jpg
Now
IMG_3988_zpse6e1c491.jpg
Edited by Peterj
  • Like 1

Here is some work I have done on my mk3 supra, I am a little behind on the latest products but the gear I have seems to be working well.

I got stuck into some polish work on the paint, at some stage the car has been resprayed but had not seen polish for a few years, all the paint had gone very chalky, if you run your fingers over it you would end up with white finger tips.
So I had a play around on the front guard with some hand polishing, first I hit it with a clay bar and then some ultimate cut.
IMG_3682.jpg
Then I decided to get serious, I bought a proper random orbit machine from a detail supplier, this is the results on the roof after wet sanding and polish, im still yet to finish the car but you get the idea.
IMG_3897.jpg
This is the wet sanding pads I bought
20130107_131602.jpg

Heres what I started with
IMG_3966_zps824a5129.jpg
so first up I wet sanded with the 3000 grit disc on my RO machine, I know the paint is thick so I can get away with the wet sanding first, heres my machine fitted with the disc
20130408_155001_zps854d6029.jpg
next comes a lake country wool pad with menzerna 500
20130408_155700_zpsda613e24.jpg
followed by maguires ultimate cut compound on a lake country orange pad, the photo shows the amount of polish required when using this system.
IMG_3943_zpsef204efe.jpg
next is the finishing pass using lake country black pad with menzerna 4000
IMG_3955_zpsd0069360.jpg
And finally a wax to protect it, for this I use colinite 845
IMG_3960_zpsedc22404.jpg
Its important to mask it up as this is messy work and you can spend hours cleaning the trim pieces up
tapeup_zps1107e448.jpg
And finally the finished waxed panel, I find white is a bugger to photograph but there is a significant change in the finish of the paint, This panel took around an 1 1/2 hours to refinish to my standard but the results are worth it.
finishquarter_zps256bb951.jpg
20130409_114931_zpse7019788.jpg

Engine bay before and after, using simple green and a tooth brush followed with a coat of basic polish.

At the start
IMG_3652.jpg
Now
IMG_3988_zpse6e1c491.jpg

I started reading & thought; "I recognise that wheel!" Lol.

Looking at it now; you take for granted what it looked like when you first bought it. Such a big change.

Now do my car; please? :thumbsup:

Hey which simple green product did you use...i saw them at bunnings but there was a few different products most of which were kitchen cleaners and such...didnt see any degreasers of any sort...

The simple green website has a degreaser listed but I haven't seen it at Bunnings either. I'm fairly certain I picked up the all purpose cleaner, I've just moved house and have no idea which boxes my cleaning gear is in. http://www.bunnings.com.au/simple-green-946ml-all-purpose-cleaner-_p4470276

Ok was just going through some photos and it appears I have completely changed the colour of the car :blink:

before washing

10322805_10152461497696499_7788075016423

after wash and polish looking a little more shiney

10363331_10152461511976499_1629275090900

after glaze and wax applied it appears to have turned orange

DSCN1784_zpsd4c9bbee.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

How can i make my window rubber surrounds black again? They're chalky and look shit.

I've tried 4 coats of back to black and it lasted a few months but I'm after something that will be glossy and last. You detailers must know of something ;)

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...