Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday everyone, I have a 99 patrol wagon with a blown RD28tdi, as a rb motor is a near on stright in conversion i plan to put in a RB motor.

Now iam looking for torque being a 4wd , but ive had people say use the RB25det, RB30et or a custom RB30/25det. Now since all you boys know your skyline id thort id ask wat is the best engine?

Thanks alot

Hayden

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418647-choosing-the-right-engine/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

25/30 or 26/30 would be best, I have a rb30 for sale if u want a new bottom end, just bolt on whatever head u choose to use,

The only issue is I don't think you can use a old model engine in a later model car due to emissions reasons

Edited by GTR260

As the TD42 diesel engine rebuilt, conversion and bolt ons such and modded injector pump, modded turbo is about $25,000. Now the engine i have is a 2.8 diesel and is a slug and has same mounts and gearbox as a RB motor it makes sence to save money and put one in, iam not after 800nm plus all iam after is the most torque out of the RB series, its a simple conversion aswell .

Cheers

Hayden

Petrol Patrols drink the juice and offer no torque compared to the diesel options.

wouldnt an rb30et with a gt30 put out more torque than a 2.8 diesel turbo? considering the gears are so short, or is the comp ratio of a diesel the difference? just interested to know..

Edited by AngryRBGTX

The 2.8 only puts down around 220nm standard, the turbo starts to spool at about 2200rpm and is on full song at near 3000rpm , ive read the RB30/25 can have 550nm may be just a little later in the rpm. The 2.8 diesel revs at 3000rpm doing 100kms gets about 400kms/80ltrs it is underpowered it only makes sence to replace the motor with a RB series motor

An RB30 with big turbo would put out a lot of torque, but it would do it from 3000rpm up. Diesels pump out the torque from right off idle. It is the comp ratio and the unthrottled air flow path that make diesels have that characteristic. Add a turbo to a diesel (because they really are gutless* without them) and they start to become the best choice for any 4WD thingo. Add LPG into the inlet manifold along with that boost and they start to become a rocketship, and cheap to run too.

*gutless as in, no power. They still have decent off idle torque when NA.

I have done the same thing and went with a Rb30et gt3076r, 444cc injectors and a Nistune ecu. alot better than a standard RD28, mine is a GQ so a Rb30 was standard I assume you have a GU so you will need engineers for the motor and you will need to comply with the emissions regulations.

Drop a fresh GM V8 in, will be lighter and use less fuel than a boosted RB.

RBs are pretty old technology now, the newer GM motors put out good torque right from the bottom, need minimal modifications to get decent power, and are reliable.

Most likely cheaper to.

Thankyou RROB , the RD28 diesel engine is a POS at the best of times, like i said a TD42 conversion with bolt ons ( turbo , pump , ic etc) is around $25,000. Ls1 conversion is $7,000 just for the conversion kit, then needs the motor then a rebuild and i need a bigger gbox as i have the weaker one that will not work with Marks 4wd conversions kit, Like ive said a RB will bolt into my gearbox and engine mounts , all it needs is wiring ( just like TD42 and LS1 would ) fuel consumption would be near on the same as a ls1 but with the ability to change boost to save abit of fuel. Now i am after as much torque as i can get from a RB series engine . All i need is advice on witch setup to use to get torque and off boost driveability. Thankyou

Just did my brothers patrol (GQ), although his was already RB30. We simply bashed a twin cam head on his existing bottom end, EFI'd it and bolted on a HKS 2540 for good measure. Fuel consumption is now better, it makes 313HP at the rears and can now tow a boat at 110 comfortably!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, hard to find and a pain in the ass to change with the transverse engine. I’ve worked on a GTiR before and it’s not a job I’d ever want to do again. theres a company in South Africa that makes RS3 gearbox adaptors for the AWD SR20 including gearbox mounts, so I could modernise it and go a dual clutch with paddles. For now tho, it ticks all the boxes. Super cheap, can throw the kids and their junk in the back, and SR20 that I can turbo cheaply, a CVT that’s not a dog’s breakfast like the V35, and has 80% interchangeable parts with stuff I can source from the wreckers cheaply…. But it’s still unique. I love the wagon back of the Autech version. It’s cheap enough that I can buy another stock manual FWD Primera with SR20VE, swap the gearbox to the N15 pulsar short gear ratio box, swap out the brakes to the R32 ones I pulled off my 32, register it on club plates and take it racing. $1300 shipping from NZ. Heaps of parts and aftermarket builders for transverse SR20’s in NZ.
    • Hard to say, just pop the rocker covers off and have a look if you think it's cammed. You probably need to replace the valve cover gasket/half moons anyways.
    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
×
×
  • Create New...