Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I think I bought the DoLuck brace after I decided to take the full cage out. Was a bit depressed about losing it, as I really like it :)

Ah well, think of it as, you got the bottom part of the roll cage in the back of the car :)

The paintwork for whatever reason comes out pretty well in photos but it definitely needs work. The roof is probably the worst with some bad bog work near the front and minor leak near the windscreen, followed by the bonnet where the paint is pretty weathered. Rear guards also need to be lipped and the paint fixed up where the wheels have scrubbed. This will all be done after Racepace has finished their part.

Yeah, I was gonna say, it also being a black car, all the marks and what not are going to show up.

Yup, Jack moved the car :) Was good to catchup with him on the day.

Yeah, he moved my GTR to Racepace too!

Awesome fella!

The seats are actually off "Racepace" Chris's R33. (Snowman's old seats). I've given them a thorough clean with fabric cleaner since the photo and they've come out really well.

Came up great!

Hopefully go back this Saturday when Chris will take my old engine apart and show me what went wrong. (probably rings)

Interested in this part!

Take some pics too!

Will definitely take pics mate :)

Well the old Brembo front brake setup has moved on and found a new home. Was really interested in getting one of the D2 Kits as they seem like awesome value. Wanted the 8Pot 356mm kit however there has been a lot posted on these forums about them not fitting 17" wheels. Well I refuse to believe that ;)

Import Monster were kind enough to lend me a kit to test fit and see if they clear my 17" track TE37's.

IMG_0239_zpsceb3c35a.jpg

Well you saw it here first -

IMG_0240_zpsad0517cc.jpg

They fit!!!

Tried to take a photo as best I could, they have more clearance than what it seems in the photos.

FYI - Wheels are 17x9". Unsure of offset but they're more aggressive than my 18x9.5+12 TE37's. Good quality forged race rims like LMGT4's etc should also clear.

IMG_0245_zpsb5f05a88.jpg

Thank you Import Monster for lending me the kit to test fit & Racepace for bolting them on and testing!

8 Piston 356mm kit in red ordered :)

Will definitely take pics mate :)

Well the old Brembo front brake setup has moved on and found a new home. Was really interested in getting one of the D2 Kits as they seem like awesome value. Wanted the 8Pot 356mm kit however there has been a lot posted on these forums about them not fitting 17" wheels. Well I refuse to believe that ;)

Import Monster were kind enough to lend me a kit to test fit and see if they clear my 17" track TE37's.

IMG_0239_zpsceb3c35a.jpg

Well you saw it here first -

IMG_0240_zpsad0517cc.jpg

They fit!!!

Tried to take a photo as best I could, they have more clearance than what it seems in the photos.

FYI - Wheels are 17x9". Unsure of offset but they're more aggressive than my 18x9.5+12 TE37's. Good quality forged race rims like LMGT4's etc should also clear.

IMG_0245_zpsb5f05a88.jpg

Thank you Import Monster for lending me the kit to test fit & Racepace for bolting them on and testing!

8 Piston 356mm kit in red ordered :)

You should have atleast 6mm clearance. Otherwise stones (on the road)/balled up rubber (On the track) will get stuck between the rim and the calliper and you will either gouge the rim (stones) or catch the robber on fire (err, rubber).

You should have atleast 6mm clearance. Otherwise stones (on the road)/balled up rubber (On the track) will get stuck between the rim and the calliper and you will either gouge the rim (stones) or catch the robber on fire (err, rubber).

gonna say this on behalf of RBN1..............................................

'SHE'L BE RIGHT MATE'

Nice caliper / brake buddy.

You should have atleast 6mm clearance. Otherwise stones (on the road)/balled up rubber (On the track) will get stuck between the rim and the calliper and you will either gouge the rim (stones) or catch the robber on fire (err, rubber).

That's good advice. I think there is about 5mm clearance currently. I'll measure up when the kit is fitted. I will be moving to 18" 's in time however just didn't want to ditch the 17"'s just yet.

Ants, there is a lot of "she'll be right" involved with this fitment haha

I gave Comp Friction a call about those AP's and they were around the $4.9k mark. Hugely awesome setup but I can't justify the cost for my build atm. Maybe later down the track if I become truly serious about tracking the car again.

They actually clear very nicely, I'd say as much as my R34 gtr wheels did.

Looks good mate!! I want black calipers now :)

  • Like 1

Will definitely take pics mate :)

Well the old Brembo front brake setup has moved on and found a new home. Was really interested in getting one of the D2 Kits as they seem like awesome value. Wanted the 8Pot 356mm kit however there has been a lot posted on these forums about them not fitting 17" wheels. Well I refuse to believe that ;)

Import Monster were kind enough to lend me a kit to test fit and see if they clear my 17" track TE37's.

IMG_0239_zpsceb3c35a.jpg

Nice and yeah, tight fit!

What's the setup you got at the rear?

2 Piston Brembos? Or just OEM Nissan ones?

Nice and yeah, tight fit!

What's the setup you got at the rear?

2 Piston Brembos? Or just OEM Nissan ones?

OEM Nissan non Brembos with DBA 4000 rotors. Have bought a set of QFM A1RM's to go on there.Was thinking of possibly upgrading them as well but Chris swayed me, seeing as these cars are front heavy. Going to spend the $ elsewhere. May possibly get the calipers rebuilt depending on what the report is on their condition.

OEM Nissan non Brembos with DBA 4000 rotors. Have bought a set of QFM A1RM's to go on there.Was thinking of possibly upgrading them as well but Chris swayed me, seeing as these cars are front heavy. Going to spend the $ elsewhere. May possibly get the calipers rebuilt depending on what the report is on their condition.

I see!

Yes, Chris also told me the same thing and to leave the rear calipers as they are.

Just get a nice set of rear rotors and brake pads and that should do you fine.

Dropped by Racepace this morning.

AND..

P1070365_zps3545a0ec.jpg

….....it's out!

Engine Progress - Bottom end has been assembled and head is on.

P1070394_zps6013672b.jpg

P1070390_zps52a99d3e.jpg

Tomei Oil Pump & N1 Water Pump

Lots of progress with rest of car too.

Fuel tank is back in with Nismo intank pump.

P1070340_zps7a20857f.jpg

While the engine was out I've opted to have the HICAS removed. Racepace Lock Bar in place.

P1070360_zps9afa90e0.jpg

If you look closely you can see that the lines for HICAS have also been taken out. Weight saving of roughly 20kg for removing all the HICAS hardware. Power steering re-routed through cooler etc. Bilstein coilovers are also in.

Front and Rear Sway Bars also in.

P1070387_zpsf938d70c.jpg

RP don't see a problem with the current location of the Oil cooler so it will remain where it is.

P1070343_zpsf92c3f44.jpg

BMC leaking from proportioning valve resulting in all the brake fluid slowly draining out over 7 years. Will be upgrading to BM57 (R33/34 GTR)

P1070388_zps1fafea71.jpg

A few more things like the standard BOV's are also back. Roll cage will be removed shortly before the R34 GTR front seats are installed.

Motor is getting close to finish. Will need to wait till I get my cam covers back from Powder Coating.

P1070362_zps3e089c84.jpg

Didn't have time to get the cam covers sent off for powder coating then wait to be sent back from Sydney so decided to paint them myself - Candy Apple Red

All paint removed with paint stripper and ready for primer.

IMG_0270_zps797ee011.jpg

Etch Primered and ready for paint

IMG_0277_zps7abd155e.jpg

Silver Metallic base coat

IMG_0280_zpsdd6ad83f.jpg

First coat. RB26 Logo has been roughly masked up. Will peel off and use some thinner to get back to bare metal before clear coating.

IMG_0283_zps75c0ad6d.jpg

Dunno why it looks a bit pink in this photo

IMG_0289_zpsa344a7af.jpg

All done with 3 coats of clear coat.

IMG_0303_zps70d7d1ed.jpg

The colour has a nice subtle metallic look to it that doesn't come out in the photos. Unfortunately after this photo was taken I put them in some bubble wrap & after arriving at Racepace I realised that after 2 days the clear wasn't totally hard yet so they have some minor marks on them :/ Will get this fixed up after I get the car back. Shouldn't be too hard.

Old motor stripped of accessories. Importer told me it was a R33 N1 motor with N1 turbos - ends up it's a standard 05U block with standard turbos.

IMG_0308_zps9445201f.jpg

New motor coming along nicely. 9L sump and timing belt etc are on. Should be completely assembled this week and turn-key end of the week.

IMG_0305_zps35a8a8b1.jpg

Will need to drop by to take pics of the final assembled engine before it goes in.

Didn't have time to get the cam covers sent off for powder coating then wait to be sent back from Sydney so decided to paint them myself - Candy Apple Red

All paint removed with paint stripper and ready for primer.

IMG_0270_zps797ee011.jpg

Etch Primered and ready for paint

IMG_0277_zps7abd155e.jpg

Silver Metallic base coat

IMG_0280_zpsdd6ad83f.jpg

First coat. RB26 Logo has been roughly masked up. Will peel off and use some thinner to get back to bare metal before clear coating.

IMG_0283_zps75c0ad6d.jpg

Dunno why it looks a bit pink in this photo

IMG_0289_zpsa344a7af.jpg

All done with 3 coats of clear coat.

IMG_0303_zps70d7d1ed.jpg

The colour has a nice subtle metallic look to it that doesn't come out in the photos. Unfortunately after this photo was taken I put them in some bubble wrap & after arriving at Racepace I realised that after 2 days the clear wasn't totally hard yet so they have some minor marks on them :/ Will get this fixed up after I get the car back. Shouldn't be too hard.

How many coats of the silver did you do? And how many coats of the red?

Always wondered how metallic finishes like this are done, looks the goods :)

How many coats of the silver did you do? And how many coats of the red?

Always wondered how metallic finishes like this are done, looks the goods :)

Hi mate, thanks.

2 coats Silver. 4 coats red. The more coats of red, the deeper and darker the shade gets. Was a bit of an experiment on my part as I was always wanted to know how to do it as well. It's a very deep Candy Apple in real life without looking too showy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
×
×
  • Create New...