Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On a serious note, is anyone in Melbourne that could lend me two 4 stud wheels 15, 16 or 17 inch that I could use to take photos for a roadworthy tomorrow? $$$

On an even more serious note, do you even lift, Brah? One does not simply alternate between epic trolling and srs bsnss.

Since when was 2/1 a fraction :/

since the invention of fractions.

you can still put whole numbers into fractions.

they're just not the simplest roots.

eg: 40/160 same as 20/80 same as 4/16 same as 1/4

all fractions.

all the same value.

This has been a good read, I'm going to put a inter-cooler on my NA falcon now :yes:

Tube & fin or bar & plate?

Far out, some people don't read...

I never said CHANGE the throttle body. I said put one (an extra one) on the intercooler pipe work before the throttle body on the intake manifold.

The throttle body on the pipe work isn't attached to a cable. It just works off its own spring pressure. Once the intercooler fills up, the throttle body will be forced to open and then the air that enters the intake manifold is pressurised to a certain degree (roughly 6 psi depending on how strong the spring is on the throttle body).

The same result can be achieved with a valve but it's more effort. The throttle body has a large diameter and the butterfly opens and shuts by itself with the amount of air running past it. It's a very simple method. It also allows the car to idle because it doesn't shut completely.

It won't run QUITE as fast as a turboed car running 6 PSI, but it's a damn good increase for a little amount of work.

Gutting your AFM definitely increases your power a little bit, as there is less of a restriction to slow the air down.

You can run a little bit rich but that doesn't matter because you're forcing extra air into the engine. Don't gut the AFM unless you're fitting an intercooler and a means of controlling the air flow (valve or throttle body).

Just try it. If you don't like the results you can remove the parts and save them until you turbo the car, you're gunna need the parts anyway.

I once had an XE Falcon with a drag plate air flow meter. Just sayin, but the boys at Ford were onto all this sh!t years ago.

Tube & fin or bar & plate?

I once had an XE Falcon with a drag plate air flow meter. Just sayin, but the boys at Ford were onto all this sh!t years ago.

If you use bar and plate, don't for get to mount it vertically (pod topside), otherwise the air will fall out.

Am I doin it rite? Bigger pod = bigger boosts f*kn whoosh?

Glad someone had the balls to reap the benefits of my advice. I bet your car is a completely different animal now, amiright?

Good job mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...