Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys was thinking of trying the KLS gtr low mount manifolds on eBay instead of shelling out for Tommi which I know would be better but just out of curiosity has any used these and know if they are any good ie : increases flow quicker spool or just leaky peices of shit , any info on them would be appricated cheers mick

Had a set came in te boot when I bought my Gtr. When I did my turbo upgrade I was going to use them, but they dust fit properly so I went with HKS. I know that since ten they have changed the design a little. As for performance I can't give you any heads up.

Oh man i love this forum, you ask a question about something and someone tells you that you should just do something completely differnet. Least there were a responses to the actual question :yucky:

Oh man i love this forum, you ask a question about something and someone tells you that you should just do something completely differnet. Least there were a responses to the actual question :yucky:

And that is the whole point of a forum - arm people with info they might not have realised so they don't waste money or put things on that might be sub-standard.

There is no difference between a set of ported stockers and Tomei. Don't waste your money, spend it elsewhere.

^ this.

Tomei crack, 4-5 people have had this issue in the past 18 months... Everyone else seems to use use stock ones in most cases so go with that.

Just ensure if you do port them, you don't remove too much material or the stock ones will also crack

Ok cheers fellers for info , ill look into porting std manifolds , what sort of cash does a port job sting on average , and anyone recommend a good shop to get the porting done ? Cheers

You are really only cleaning up the exhaust path, anyone with a die grinder can do it, but it's time consuming and messy. The other (more expensive) option is Power porting, or pumping an abrasive through them.

http://www.autospeed...orting&A=111154

Give me a yell if you can't find anyone local to die grind them, (I'm south east Melb) but any good fabricator or performance workshop will probably do it for you.

While working on the Gibson GTR I realised they used cast factory manifolds, with large hangers to hold the turbo's up when the metal went soft from heat. Smart move I thought and better than the little brace underneath that usually holds the turbo's up.

post-63525-0-06809200-1360502144_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...