Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I take it that the fast tuner is exactly that, a tool to get a quick and decent result? for people with limited experience/know how.

It doesnt surprise me that someone who has tuned cars in more countries than i've been too doesnt use it. :P

Will do, im quite excited. Should be many hours of learning and tinkering.

I'd be interested to see how your ignition table comes out. I think tuning the AFR to your targets is far simpler than tuning the ignition table. Ive got WARI installed(I don't have the ECU, just playing with the software) and the base map for an R33 looks a little heavy on the retard side. I'm deciding either between the adaptronic select or a haltech platinum pro. It would be awesome if I could tune it my self but the things that can go wrong if the ignition table isn't setup right isn't appealing. Even on cruise, Ive read if the ignition table is too retard you increase combustion temps. I think for any home tuner its probably worth while to get a EGT sensor installed.

I read someone here done back to back installs with a EGT sensor inside the collector housing of the mani and another one post turbo and the temperature change was 40 - 50 degrees less. Its a change but if you set a good upper limit and stay about 100 degrees under that, it should be safe.

Guilt toy what are your target AFR's on standard 98 fuel? What are your tips for a novice home tuner on working with the ignition table. Would you start with the standard base tune and work around that? If you have another tune, from a PFC for example, could you use that as a reference for the ignition map?

My egt's were around 50 - 100 degrees cooler in the dump so you are about spot on. I would be running it in the manifold close to the head or at the merge.

I found having an egt gauge interesting, the tuner was definitely more confident to tune closer to the limits, and we were able to lean out the cruise while keeping an eye on the exhaust temps. It was especially reassuring having it at the track as I didn't see over 900c up the straight, even after hitting the soft limit a few times (damn auto box).

Some Japanese tuners prefer to watch the exhaust temp rather than the wideband from what I hear...

You aren't wrong with that statement. Are all the EGT's the same? My main concern about putting it in the collector is if the thing ever snapped and my turbo had to eat it. Another concern which I thought of, and read on this site I think, is that the material the dump is made of(mine is a stock dump so cast iron) and the material of the heat probe have different expansion properties and this guy said that when his car heated up, the probe was coming loose. What should be the upper limit temps to be seeing? From what Ive read 850c is generally the good limit to stay at or below.

As long as you get a good quality electronic gauge it should be accurate, and the tip should never snap off. (mine is around 5mm in diameter and looked perfect last time I removed it.) The material you tap it in to shouldn't make much difference, the thread is tapered so it will bite nice and tight into the tapped hole, as long as you use the correct tapered tap. If the Adaptronic has the ability to log 6 channels I would run a temp probe in each runner to allow individual cylinder trimming.

The max temps you want to see is dependant on timing. The less timing your engine is running the higher the exhaust temps will be compared to the combustion chamber. My engine runs very little timing under load as the boost is so high.

Imagine how soft the alloy pistons would be at that temperature, they would be so weak a little det would punch a hole straight through them. Luckily our pistons all run oil squirters underneath to keep temps under control, my stock pistons also have a donut shaped oil channel cast into them to help transfer the heat into the oil.

  • 1 month later...

Thinking about getting one of these ecu's. w.a. Is finally getting e85 at one station. If I get some id1000's, fit a walbro e85 in tank pump, will this ecu be able to have 2 tunes on board, one for e85 and one for bp98 because I don't think I'll be able to rely on the one station to always have e85 avaliable ?

basically, i will explain to you what that answer means....

you can buy a sensor and put it in the fuel line, and it detects the ethanol content in your fuel lines and the ecu will adjust the tune accordingly on the fly, without you having to do anything really.

all you do is just put whatever fuel you can in the tank and the computer does the rest. does not matter if you only have half of e85 and half of 98, or a quarter of e85 and the rest 98, the ecu will sort it out for you without you even knowing.

thats appealing. will the car be tuned at its best potential then? does the tuner define what values of timing is set for 90% ethanol to 5% ethanol then the ecu scales accordingly?

and then if i was runnning premium 98 fuel mixed with no ethanol fuel at all it would be a completly different map?

i guess what im trying to work out is do i give the car to the tuner with e85 in the tank, get the car tuned, then drain the tank fill with bp98 tune the car again, then there is 2 different base lines to work with?

cheers

Edited by jamesdt

Yes, you would normally get 2 completely separate tunes done - one at 0% ethanol and the other using 85% ethanol (and I mean actually 85% ethanol, E85 can vary in content).

The ECU then reads the output from the ethanol content sensor you install and interpolates between the two maps - so if you have 40% ethanol content in your tank currently then your ignition timing and fuel injection would be halfway between the two tuning maps.

That's a simplified version, anyway :)

Spoke to the tuner that I'm dealing with and his advised against going the ethanol flex sensor. He would much prefer to have two separate dedicated maps and has pushed away from using an adaptronic select, he did say tuning them is more difficult and they don't get a satisfactory result when using them. That's probably just in experience of tuning them... they advised on using a vi-pec plug in ecu. I'm guessing a v44 model would be sufficient enough over a v88?

*sigh* sooo many tuners blame the ecu on their poor tuning skills.. it pisses me off. the vipec plug in will do the job the same as the adaptronic, but it is far more expensive.

the vi-pec plug ins now come with a v88 top board, which means they are fully sequential. plug ins are called plug in's. they are not called v44 or v88's.

  • Like 1

*sigh* sooo many tuners blame the ecu on their poor tuning skills.. it pisses me off. the vipec plug in will do the job the same as the adaptronic, but it is far more expensive.

the vi-pec plug ins now come with a v88 top board, which means they are fully sequential. plug ins are called plug in's. they are not called v44 or v88's.

Would love to try an Adaptronic, amongst other ECUs out there. People here even bag Links/ViPECs for their results - again, ultra suss that people blame their tools and annoying that they somehow manage to get the benefit of the doubt.

Spoke to the tuner that I'm dealing with and his advised against going the ethanol flex sensor. He would much prefer to have two separate dedicated maps and has pushed away from using an adaptronic select, he did say tuning them is more difficult and they don't get a satisfactory result when using them. That's probably just in experience of tuning them... they advised on using a vi-pec plug in ecu. I'm guessing a v44 model would be sufficient enough over a v88?

sounds like flex fuel and tuning a different ECU are above his abilities. that is the nicest way I could possibly put it.

Spoke to the tuner that I'm dealing with and his advised against going the ethanol flex sensor. He would much prefer to have two separate dedicated maps and has pushed away from using an adaptronic select, he did say tuning them is more difficult and they don't get a satisfactory result when using them. That's probably just in experience of tuning them... they advised on using a vi-pec plug in ecu. I'm guessing a v44 model would be sufficient enough over a v88?

Get a new tuner..

So 440 Universal or Link G4 Storm for a built YB Cosworth with about 460hp A bit gutted to be changing the Pectel ecu but need something with more accessible software for some more mods and tunability

whats wrong with the pectal? dont buy an ecu till you talk to me i have something very special about to surface.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
×
×
  • Create New...