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Can you get adjustable wheels for both intake and exhaust side then? Just trying to visualise how the crank and two cams can be in the exact spot without having everything adjustable..

Can you use the tensioner for adjusting it too? hmm

But confused what your question is mate. If you mean adjustable cam gears then the answer is yes, I'm using an aftermarket exhaust cam gear and a standard nissan intake cam gear but modified so that it is adjustable from the front (IE don't have to take the cam gear off to adjust it).

But to get the crank and cams in the right spot is easy, just leave them in the correct spot. They don't move once you take the timing belt off. But since you are assembling the engine just use a 27mm socket to move the crank and a 27mm spanner on the cams to locate them.

Yeah sorry, I was wondering if the stock cam gears and the belt you use were good enough to be just aligned or if that made the timing out a fair bit, iv'e seen on some other threads the use of a special guage to measure when the pistons at the TDC, interested to know what difference "dialing the cams in" makes on your motor, I havnet see the adjustable intake cam gear before..

cheers..

Edited by AngryRB

Yep I bought my intake cam gear ring (needed so you can adjust from the front) from Ben and it works perfect. Would absolutely recommend if you are ever taking cam gear off for any reason.

  • Like 1

Yeah sorry, I was wondering if the stock cam gears and the belt you use were good enough to be just aligned or if that made the timing out a fair bit, iv'e seen on some other threads the use of a special guage to measure when the pistons at the TDC, interested to know what difference "dialing the cams in" makes on your motor, I havnet see the adjustable intake cam gear before..

cheers..

What you are talking about is degreeing the cam gears and is an excellent idea....... if you are willing to pay someone competent to do it or you have the know how and specialised equipment to complete the task yourself. When doing a standard 20/25/26 you just use the stock timing marks, because when you align all 3 marks everything is where it should be. It gets a little tricky when using the RB30 bottom end as the timing marks get thrown out a little due to the extra deck hight of the block. People on here tend to think that both cams (when using stock 25 timing marks) become about 4deg retarded. It was my intention to pay someone to degree mine in to get a completely accurate result but i sort of just ran out of time and money so that idea went out the window.

I found the near enough was good enough and am just continuing to use the standard RB25 timing marks, and when my car next goes on the dyno i will advance the cam gears 4deg per side and see if that bring power on a little earlier, confirming when i read. Then myself and the tuner will play around so try and bring the power on as soon as possible.

  • 2 months later...

Bit of a thread revival.

Have done 2 drift days since and replaced cam seals. Finally got the thing registered again after getting defected in feb. Cant believe i went so long without driving it on the road.

Will try and get some pics and vids up from the last few drift days and some general pics up. Also moved house and now have a new shed setup. But most importantly i also bought another 32 haha, couldnt help myself! R32 gtst with a S1 RB25 making 340kw at the treads. :yes:

11705218_10153511460603130_2630625552649

Won't worry about a mod plate, will just keep paying to clear defects. Will be keeping it street for a while and just see what happens with it :)

also a quick vid from the wet pan day.

  • 9 months later...

Ughhh so much to update on. I really should be more proactive with this.

Have since done a heap of minor maintenance trying to tidy up all the little annoying things. Then I did QR matsuri and the car was absolutely perfect all weekend. And then last weekend had a private drift day at raeligh raceway in Coffs Harbour in which I plowed into a wall but got out very lightly.

I'm away at the moment but promise to update this thread when I get back (if anyone cares haha)

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  • Like 3

That last pic looks farkin tough, looks like a GTR . did you sought out the cam timing or still just close enough is good enough...?

Good to see it being enjoyed rather than in a shed like mine :thumbsup:

Edited by AngryRB

Nah still haven't touched the cams and it's misfiring above 17psi. Need a new ECU tuner and myself has decided.

Yeah I have certainly been having fun in it haha. Hopefully be drifting eastern creek south circuit next weekend.

Video of the wall hit. Throttle got stuck open and by the time i realised it was too late. I was on the brakes but running shitty tyres all round plus the track having as much grip as an ice rink after the torrential rain we just had there was really nothing that i could do. No harm done though really, just need a new guard. Just used a jack handle to beat the guard roughly back into shape so i could keep driving for the rest of the day :)

No damage to steering as we then had to drive my car 5 hours home (which turned into an almost 9 hour drive but that's a whole different story) and it cruised home perfectly.

So much has happened with this car in the last year and now i have come to update this thread i can barely remember any of it haha.

Basically i have just been doing minor maintenance to it in the last year or so. The biggest niggling issue that i have is a missfire at 17psi. Have spent about 8 hours on the dyno and between myself and the tuner we cannot figure it out. Have done everything from nearly completely rewiring my harness, giving everything power direct from alternator and redoing all earths, to stuff as simple as new plugs and checking gaps. I deal with aeronuatical electrical looms and harnesses every day so i'm no slouch with this stuff, and even my tuner (DVS jez) is a whip with this sort of stuff but we have been beaten by it it seems. The last and only piece of advice jez had to offer was that the adpatronics wasted spark setup could be to blame, so he is trying to find an Haltech R34 GT-T plug in to try at the moment. Haltech is a little out of my price range though so i am currently considering going back to NIStune and runninga HPX AFM in a blow through application in the cooler piping. Yes even the old NIStune is a direct fire system so hopefully that will be the end of the missfire for me.

It still makes 340kw on 17psi with the missfire so i am very keen to get it fixed and turn the wick up and FINALLY play with the cam gears to pick up even more response.

Just to recap, this is still runnning a complately untouched standard RB30DE (non turbo) bottom end that had 330,xxx km on it when it was removed from an R31. It has done a year on 14psi (300kw) and 6 months on 17psi (340kw) and I would say at least 10,000km of street driving. That includes 4 drift days with one of those being at Queensland Raceway in the middle of summer. And don't go thinking I treat this thing nicely either, I abuse the shit out of it haha it is always seeing the limiter (7000rpm). Will be interesting to see how it holds up when i really lean on it :)

  • Like 2

My bad I meant RB30E but yes, the bottom end is thriving haha. I have another spare block in the shed that's got 110,000km on it (pretty much a virgin :P) and I'm i. The process of finding another Neo head for it.

Got around to doing a check over of the car after the last event, f**k she is filthy. Have a look at it haha.

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My bad I meant RB30E but yes, the bottom end is thriving haha. I have another spare block in the shed that's got 110,000km on it (pretty much a virgin :P) and I'm i. The process of finding another Neo head for it.

Got around to doing a check over of the car after the last event, f**k she is filthy. Have a look at it haha.

post-84937-14625102020226_thumb.jpgpost-84937-14625102153818_thumb.jpgpost-84937-14625102245501_thumb.jpgpost-84937-14625102326116_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...

Dialled my cams in yesterday.

Type  b poncam. 

Found  0 at tdc.

Rotated to 50tho lift cam up exactly  at 8 deg atdc as per cam card

Did same  with exhaust  cam but i advanced  it 2 deg to bring on boost earlier.

Zero position from factory was spot on for cam timing. 

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