Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lol I remember u from NS.com, seems like u went the same :ph34r: :ph34r: "upgrade" :ph34r: :ph34r: route as me from Autech to GTT!

Haha I wasn't very active on ns.com, but I assume you read my tiny build thread on there if you had an Autech too. Can't say I regret the decision of upgrading to a GTT :P

Attended local 1/8th mile drags again yesterday. Borrowed semi slicks from a friend and was amazed at the difference. My new pb is 8.71 (half a second down on my previous). Nothing too eventful, will put a video compilation together later in the week and post that.

For the time being here is a video of me racing my dad in his VY SS. It has basic CAI and extractors/exhaust, 300rwhp. He didn't have any other wheels to put on so had to run with his 20" haha. Didn't have the greatest traction but it was good to have a couple of runs against him :D

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Well I've been lazy/working too much to put together the footage from the drag day, but bad news has struck.

Driving to work this morning and only a couple of minutes away **CLUNK** followed by what seems like a slight rattling noise. Jump out look under the car and oil is streaming out of the diff. I'm going to contact the company the fitted it for me and see what they think it is and whether or not I have a 'warranty' on their labour.

The 'crap' part is that I am going away on holidays for just over a month as of Friday and all my funds are tied up with that. The positive side is that I am headed to Perisher for a week and than going to Japan for 3 and a half weeks straight after. Making an appearance at Ebisu for a couple of weeks so that will be good. Might be my last fix of fun driving for a while it would seem.

  • 5 weeks later...

Still in Japan so no updates for the GTT. I thought I would post a pic of my ride at Ebisu though :)

yu08.jpg

Not quite a Skyline but still a Nissan ;)

Whilst here I have been to a lot of awesome motoring related places including the Nismo Omori Factory, Mobara Twin Circuit, Nikko Circuit, multiple UpGarages and Autobacs stores, Daikoku Futo, driven around on multiple Initial D touge roads, watched some street drifting at a touge 2 hours from where I was staying (didn't get to bed until after the sun came up). I had never done a drift event but I have been driving at Ebisu for 2 weeks which has been a gret learning curve for me. I also watched D1GP Round 3 & 4, and am competing in the G1GP tomorrow, and then getting ready for the Summer Matsuri this weekend. All in all it has been a fun time so far, with more fun times to come :P

Also, here is a video of me my first day of taking on the famous 'Minami' track at Ebisu Circuit. This was just after a week of being at Ebisu :)

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

Finally back from Japan, so some updates in regards to the 34. Taking it to the workshop that fitted the diff on Monday to find out what the problem is, hopefully that gets sorted quickly (and cheaply) so I can take it for a drive, it's been over a month and I'm missing it :P

I went in on a group buy with a friend and purchased some AP Racing 660 brake fluid just before going to Japan. Also ordered some new Intima SR series brake pads yesterday. I have a couple of friends using these pads and they seem to be pretty good value for money. I am waiting to hear back from Paul at Street To Track so I can make payment on front and rear 24mm adjustable Whiteline swaybars and also some DBA 4000 series T3 slotted rotors. Can't wait to receive everything and get it all fitted. The swaybars should stiffen the car up a little bit and make it handle a bit nicer and the braking should definitely improve :)

Next on the list is looking into buying some BC BR coilovers after paying a few bills lol. This should be everything I want to do suspension wise for now.

I will finish with a couple more videos from my Japan trip.

Tandem run on School Course with Jordan Graham from Adelaide

This is the last run I had at Ebisu. As you can see, the car is in pretty bad shape. I may have hit the wall on Minami during G1GP practice :P

My back right tyre was almost gone so I went backwards on School course to try and make it last a little longer. Once I felt it start to strip I went full Aussie and just did a burnout to finish the tyres off before packing up and selling the car back to Powervehicles. I was also asked to take a local Japanese guy (no English) for a passenger ride who loved it.

Edited by timmy_89

Well unfortunately I couldn't buy one cheap enough there so the 180SX had to do :P

I can't wait to get the diff sorted and fit the new parts though :D

Keen to hear your thoughts on the new mods :yes:

Been long time lurker of your thread man.

Car looks good and sick gopro

Thanks man :)

Had the car towed to the diff shop on Monday, still waiting to hear back though. Car just made it on the truck without scraping so it's a good height :P

gwuz.jpg

Got notification from Paul (Street To Track) that he was organising all the parts, then yesterday got an email saying that Whiteline made a mistake and don't have the swaybars in stock, and won't until the end of September :( . He is refunding the money for the swaybars and I am going to see if I can find them on a stores shelves somewhere. The rotors should be sent today though he said.

I also received the brake pads in the mail the other day, and ordered BC BR coilovers from JustJap.

I also got new rims for my other 'car'. Needs a slight flare at the rear but otherwise a good fitment :P

7cku.jpg

So I now have an answer about the diff.

Apparently there are 2 different bolts that fit the crown wheel. There is a 13mm (newer models) and a 12mm (older models, still has a 13mm top and tappers down). Looks like the kit I bought came with the 12mm variant bolts and the guys that fitted it didn't notice. As a result, one of the bolts has come out and put a hole in the housing. Luckily, it looks like there is no damage to the Nismo unit. They are sourcing a new housing for me now, should be back on the road next week I guess.

Timmy make sure to check repco, autobarn, supercheap etc for teh whiteline sway bars. or, even, give a call to insterstate suspension shops!

as for your RC car, looks great! I have one from many years ago, TT-01D (i think???) which as a teenager my dad bought for me but i lacked the money to buy mods...and so it's been sitting in the garage for a fair while (HAHAHA while my actual car sits outside) - i gotta get that back into shape one day. Got an STI 05 shell sitting in the living room, for years...waiting to be cut and painted. What tool do you use to cut the shell?

My local Autobarn, Supercheap, etc wouldn't have a hope in stocking that sort of thing. Welcome to 'rural' NSW :P . I managed to pick up the front swaybar on eBay, hopefully that gets delivered soon. There are a couple of rear swaybars on there but they are a bit overpriced, I may end up going for them if I can't source one elsewhere sometime soon.

You are correct about the RC car it's the TT-01D. I have owned it for probably 3ish years now, used for about 6months then sat in the cupboard until about a month ago when a friend of mine got one as well and he uses his a lot so it encourages me to get mine out haha. The wheels are the first thing I have done to it, I also got another set for it. One of the wheels in the above picture has already been cracked :(

So I now have the 34 back. The workshop was really good about the whole situation and I didn't pay a cent in getting it fixed. Thy even used their own oil so that I can replace it with mine after 1000kms. Driving it was weird, after driving the 180 at Ebisu, it felt heavy, unresponsive, too grippy and too quiet. Haha. First world problems lol :P

I have now received the BC BR coilovers, the DBA 4000 series T3 slotted front rotors, the Intima SR pads and HEL braided brake lines. I already had the AP Racing 660 brake fluid. So this weekend will be fun :)

ezzb.jpg

I also got the front Whiteline 24mm adjustable swaybar today, but I am waiting until the rear one gets delivered before fitting them. I want to fit them both together, but I also want to drive the car with the coilovers before fitting the swaybars just so I can feel the difference that the different mods make.

So yesterday I got to fitting everything with the help of a friend. All brake stuff is done, as well as the coilovers. We put the coilovers in at the height they were in the box and were going to adjust after the car had been put on the ground to see how it was sitting, and it was exactly (well within 1-2mm on each corner) the same height it was with the springs haha. I will let it settle and maybe adjust the rear to be a tiny bit lower but want to keep the front at the same height for now.

Results, the coilovers have made the car firmer, reducing a lot of the 'boatiness' that I am sure was a result of the super old shocks. It isn't rough though, I have the damper set to 12 at the front and 15 at the rear and will maybe adjust a little after time, I will just see how that goes for now. In regards to the braking, I am amazed. The car brakes extremely quickly and is a lot more touchier. Just touching the brake pedal down 1cm feels very responsive in the braking.

Overall very happy. Tossing up now whether I should have bought rear rotors as well, so this may be something I do sometime soon. Swaybars will be fitted as soon as the rear one turns up and I have a day off. Pics will be posted soon :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...