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Fuel Consumption On 260Rs Vs M35 Vs C34 (4Wd)

West

By West,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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West Grand Master

West

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If you're concerned about fuel consumption, a turbo 2.5/6l inline/V6 stationwagon with 4wd isn't for you. They are expensive cars to run and maintain.

That's irrelevant. That you're asking about which is cheaper to run means you want something cheap to run. They are all much of a muchness. 1-2L/100ks difference is ~$3/100k or ~$12 per tank. So instead of $105 to fill it it might "only" be $90. If that difference is the make or break, then you're barking up the wrong tree. If it's not then why does it matter which one is "more efficient"?

I love my stag but it's not a daily driver. If it was I fear I'd be living in it cause I wouldn't be able to afford the mortgage. They would not be a pleasant car to use as a daily if you do not have a heck of a lot of money at your disposal.

I might have mis-interpreted myself.

I want to move on from my Colt to a wagon so i can drive my 2 dogs around but it has to be a fun wagon and being a Nissan fan, i can't go pass the Stag even though the old one looks like a coffin mover.

I know all about fuel consumption when it comes to big body power 4wd car and my mind is set for the Stag so i want to know which models (M35,C34, 260RS) is more fuel efficieny, is it the V6 or the straight 6, that is all.

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
Posted

Well the answer, stock for stock, is the newer M35 running in good condition.

But the difference isn't that great unless its all highway driving. There are so many other differences, ie the original cost for buying the car, availability of parts - that the fuel cost shouldn't be the only factor.

West Grand Master

West

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well the answer, stock for stock, is the newer M35 running in good condition.

But the difference isn't that great unless its all highway driving. There are so many other differences, ie the original cost for buying the car, availability of parts - that the fuel cost shouldn't be the only factor.

True.

Much parts available for the M35 yet?

260tech Proficient

260tech

Posted
Posted

What he said. Apologies if that is not helpful but "There it is!"

Cheers GW

Who cares? They are big, beautiful and exhilarating to drive.

Both get driven about 60k per week and maybe once a month down the coast, about 100k.

Both use around 16l/100k

Beats walking. LOL And is cheap entertainment..

Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted

General stuff ...... like if i need something for an R32, 33, i'll find plenty at the wreckers.

Christ no.

Parts for RB and R/C platforms are everywhere and cheap as shit. VGs and M platforms are rare and hella expensive.

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

True.

Much parts available for the M35 yet?

All parts are available.

The easier one would be the 3.5L due to being a cross platform engine. That said, it is as easy as taking your car to a Nissan dealer or logging on to Amayama.com to buy parts for any of these cars. There are wrecked examples of M35's floating around in most states although nowhere near as common.

Christ no.

Parts for RB and R/C platforms are everywhere and cheap as shit. VGs and M platforms are rare and hella expensive.

You mean VQ? VG was never in a Stagea.

Most M35 parts aren't expensive IMO and yes, both my previous Stagea (VQ25det) and current Stagea (VQ35de) were both used as my daily drive (~700-800kms per week).

If it was hella expensive to run these cars on a daily basis, I wouldn't have been able to do so for the past 6 years.

Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted

All parts are available.

The easier one would be the 3.5L due to being a cross platform engine. That said, it is as easy as taking your car to a Nissan dealer or logging on to Amayama.com to buy parts for any of these cars. There are wrecked examples of M35's floating around in most states although nowhere near as common.

You mean VQ? VG was never in a Stagea.

Most M35 parts aren't expensive IMO and yes, both my previous Stagea (VQ25det) and current Stagea (VQ35de) were both used as my daily drive (~700-800kms per week).

If it was hella expensive to run these cars on a daily basis, I wouldn't have been able to do so for the past 6 years.

700-800ks per week is ~$150-180/week in fuel alone. That's not cheap. Daily driving cars also places them under great stress, especially if you're in peak hour/stop start stuff. That flogs out cars quickly.

Parts for Ms are not common, nor cheap, especially compared to Cs. Cs have huge compatibility with R and S series cars with suspension, gearbox and engine components being very interchangeable meaning parts for Cs are a dime a dozen and everywhere. And if you are daily driving your car, expect to replace parts every so often.

Stageas are not sensible dailies. They are expensive to run and maintain. Sensible dailies are cheap to run and maintain and on top of that, ultimately disposable. A cheap falcadore on LPG is the best daily you will find. Cheap to run, maintain, will go for eons and when it does eventually die, head to the nearest wrecker, rip the plates off, take everything you want out of it and walk away.

Deciding which Stagea is cheapest is like figuring out who's prettier, Rosanne Barr or Rosie O'Donnell. Both as ugly as sin, but if you absolutely had to choose you could probably put one in front of the other.

numleg Community Regular

numleg

Posted
Posted

My 260RS, 300+kw and sticky rubber does 12.5 L/100km for Highway and i dont bother working it out around Sydney it would be probably close to 20 L/100km.

My Dad has an ARX with a turbo back exhaust and gets around to 10 L/100km on the highway, 13ish L/100km for daily use but thats country town/open road driving.

Having spent a fair amount of time in the ARX it is a HEAPS better car for daily use. My Autech is a toy and isn't used (or suitable for) daily.

Cheddar Collaborator

Cheddar

Posted
Posted

I have a series 2 C34 and I'm usually getting around 330kms to a tank although this week I reached an all time record of 355...

Boost is set at 10 and I have nistune (un tuned though), front mount and stock exhaust with fart tin and punched out cat. I've ordered a new O2 sensor to see if that helps but going by other posts in here it looks like that might not make much difference. I only use BP Ultimate.

I often get people asking me about my car and I tell them all that they're awesome cars, just don't expect them to be economical. I've never had trouble getting parts though. Most R33/34 stuff will fit.

Bottom line like everyone else has said, they're not the best car for a daily unless you keep them stock and don't mind paying a lot for fuel.

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      OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
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