Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I suspect, for the money, you'd be far better off simply cleaning up the factory manifold than going the Brae side mount. The Brae one gives you all the bad things of not being factory (like defectability, having to move and change stuff) and nowhere near as big an improvement from std as any decent high or low mount would.

what about a low mount 6boost, obviously its not factory, but it would help to hide the turbo with some added heat shields and lots of stealth black.. Ive caved in and have ordered one to get every drop of response from the split pulse 3076, as the factory manifold has started to crack even after ceramic coating it before.

Edited by AngryRBGTX

How much better is side mount one than the factory one ?

Also wouldn't it be an instant defect if you got caught with a high mounted GT3076R ?

A .

It made 40kws more then standard Based on a ATR43SS2 turbo.

I'm getting over the whole street legal thing. It just comes down to how you can fool a cop, obviously smart cops can tell from those cover ups while stupid ones will defect you for having an "stock intercooler" or having wholes (obviously stock cooler piping) on the chassis .

Plus you can't go to EPA without a stock manifold, turbo, and exhaust. So get your self a good high mount ex gate setup, quite exhaust, and enjoy the power while you can. lol

  • Like 1

For Hypergear , does that Brae side mount manifold place the turbo pretty much where the Nissan cast one does if you spaced the turbo out for the T04S 0.70 comp housing ie GT3582R etc .

I also wonder if its possible to butcher a couple of std heat shields to come up with a bit of a "stealth plate" . Its not going to fool anyone who knows what they're looking at but would keep the daddy long legs a bit out of sight .

A .

For Hypergear , does that Brae side mount manifold place the turbo pretty much where the Nissan cast one does if you spaced the turbo out for the T04S 0.70 comp housing ie GT3582R etc .

I also wonder if its possible to butcher a couple of std heat shields to come up with a bit of a "stealth plate" . Its not going to fool anyone who knows what they're looking at but would keep the daddy long legs a bit out of sight .

A .

My side mount manifold was the very first one he's ever made. I had a deal in mind having them produced in quantity how ever the amount of time and parts required for this to work is far more involving then initially planed. It didn't work out.

Based on the manifold that I've received, bare in mind it was the very first one ever made. I score it 70% out of a 100.

Manifold does hold the turbocharger approximately on the same spot. which allows the factory dump pipe to be fitted as well as the water lines and drains.

The manifold pushed the turbocharger towards the chassis side by 25mms running that with an actuator and a standard actuator bracket becomes extremely difficult. How ever if external gate is used then that is no problems.

The bit I really didn't like was installation. Because it was all squashed together there are no room for tools. I had to remove factory rocket cover getting my spanners in, and skimm them so I can just turn the bolt. I don't think there are much can be done to this. But Once its installed its fine.

Performance wise it made more power then factory and any China manifold could ever reach based even running lower boost. How ever still fall 30kws behind his proper high mount with a 50mm gate.

Weighing up all factors, even tho it is a very good manifold, my vote still goes to his high mount with external gate.

what's with the crazy plate stack under the wg... cooling?

... is it just us Roy, but damn that looks cool!

I just machined out and re-welded my hks manifold. now I just need a motor to put it on :-) ... or it's going on the stagea.

Cheers

Justin

Legend01 (Pete) sold me on their merits years ago. He was doing his 2.3L when I was first doing my Greddy setup. I always preferred the HKS manifold for having a straighter exhaust flow / keeping heat away from the looms / easier to make good heat shields for / slightly more subtle / and the only cracks they seem to get is in the web of the split pulse flange.

With a black Turbosmart gate there is every chance that 90% of people wouldn't spot what is going on and the make engine bays look so clean.

Tone down the bling and it all looks pretty std

gallery_462_50_193533.jpeg

gallery_462_50_674863.jpeg

what's with the crazy plate stack under the wg... cooling?

I just machined out and re-welded my hks manifold. now I just need a motor to put it on :-) ... or it's going on the stagea.

Justin

Good to see your getting it sorted! Hope it works well for you, was watching this thread ;)

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...