Jump to content
SAU Community

Calsonic R32 Gtr Replica

JimmyRickard

By JimmyRickard,
in Motorsport Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 412
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

JimmyRickard
JimmyRickard

Annnnnd done! It's been fun folks

JimmyRickard
JimmyRickard

Assembled! Really happy with how they turned out, they look amazing!

JimmyRickard
JimmyRickard

Getting closer!

Posted Images

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

Was reading this thread many many moons ago and i remember a lot of talk about finding centre lock wheel nuts. Found this pic and although its probably not of any help you may find it interesting nonetheless.

10012987_771234859575795_168179880527460

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

looks like the correct way to do it to me; a rattle gun is guess and giggle torque, with a torque wrench you will get it right. Also a rattle gun is likely to push past a minor obstruction or burr which in turn makes it hell to get off again afterwards.

JimmyRickard Mentor

JimmyRickard

Posted
  • Author
Posted

getting 22 flashing lights on my attessa, anyone know what the issue is?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/442148-attessa-code-22-ets-oil-level-switch-or-circuit/

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

That center lock wheel nut is probably about 500nm

Good luck at the event, love your side pipes!

Double it.... ;)

The Sierra does up to 600nm, and the GTR was a heap more again, probably like 8-900

  • Like 1
PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Shit hey, I was going off what i think from memory some of the recent 911s with center lock wheel nut are using. Though I think they did a recall on them for some reason..

It's where copper anti seize comes into play! It makes for heaps more work cleaning wheels and shit for the weekend, but it makes sure that you don't have stuck nuts :D

I watched the R32 running today, looks absolutely awesome out on track. Unfortunately looks like a few mechanical issues with blow by and oil, and a few fresh water hoses needed, but I reckon you guys will be on top of them soon enough! Good work out there today!

JimmyRickard Mentor

JimmyRickard

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Had great fun today, but a few issues as well. Before we took it out we has to bash the front guards to get the tyres to fit properly. Dan took it out for the first session and was having massive blow by issues. I could see huge plumes of blue smoke from the other side of the track which is never a good sign. We also managed to smash the nut holding exhaust in place so the exhaust was hanging off when it came in, along with oil pissing out of the side of the engine. Missed the next timed session to fix it so the fastest time he got on record was a 1.06, but on the qstarz he logged a 1.04.62 which is pretty damn quick I think. Best I managed was a 1.07.58 which I'm also pretty happy with.

It's where copper anti seize comes into play! It makes for heaps more work cleaning wheels and shit for the weekend, but it makes sure that you don't have stuck nuts :D

I watched the R32 running today, looks absolutely awesome out on track. Unfortunately looks like a few mechanical issues with blow by and oil, and a few fresh water hoses needed, but I reckon you guys will be on top of them soon enough! Good work out there today!

Thanks mate. We really need to piss off all the old shitty hoses, along with the wiring. Apologies to those who got smoke screened!

Yeah I use the anti seize on all my wheel studs, spark plugs, exhaust studs etc it's good stuff

Would love to see some footage from today if there is any

I'll try and get some footage up shortly. Saw a few photographers out there, hopefully there's some good shots of it around. Looks awesome with the big wheels and tyres. Almost there!

Heya JR,

How'd the new G-sensor go?

If you want a hand band-aiding the blowby, I still have an oil/air separator to 'test' ;)

Mark :)

G-Sensor was good! Although the diffs are unloading a fair bit which is affecting the 4WD, but looks like we have fixed at least one issue. I have to say the car has never gripped up like that before, but that might be a combination of good tyres, camber and a working 4WD system. I'll give you a call about the seperator, I need all the help I can get!

Cheers guys!

10275327_10154095460620301_1803178128339

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...