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R34 Gtt Fault Code 33 - How To Clear Heated Oxygen Sensor


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Hey Guys

Got sick of my engine light being on this week so I did the self-diagnostic test as seen on this website and it flashed the code 33 which apparently means heated oxygen sensor. I just had installed a KLS split dump pipe (with the correct thread for the sensor) and now it wont turn off

Anyone had this problem before or know how I could go about rectifying it?

Geoff

Edited by neopowered34
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So I played round with the connections as the exhaust shop left one half clipped and the light has gone off after a good drive, fingers crossed it stays off!

Edited by neopowered34
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So I played round with the connections as the exhaust shop left one half clipped and the light has gone off after a good drive, fingers crossed it stays off!

Check the fault code again. Although the light isnt on it may still be faulty. My 34 has the code 33 at the moment, my 02 sensor is shagged but the light doesnt always come on.

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  • 2 months later...

Mine threw up this code yesterday, it came on after a bit of a spirited drive. It went away for around 30 mins but came on this morning on the way into work.

Definatley a dud sensor then, or does it just overheat when on boost and then come good? My car too has a split dump pipe

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Mine threw up this code yesterday, it came on after a bit of a spirited drive. It went away for around 30 mins but came on this morning on the way into work.

Definatley a dud sensor then, or does it just overheat when on boost and then come good? My car too has a split dump pipe

Mine ended up staying off so was the connection that the exhaust shop left off. Just double check them and if your sensor is dud move it off for a new one :)

  • Like 1
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Yeah I unplugged it and gave it a quick spray with rp7, been good since.

Checked the air fuel ratio on the dyno and it was a constant 13.7/1 at cruising speed/throttle

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Yeah I unplugged it and gave it a quick spray with rp7, been good since.

Checked the air fuel ratio on the dyno and it was a constant 13.7/1 at cruising speed/throttle

is that a typo? Should be 14.7

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is that a typo? Should be 14.7

Nah, defiantley was between 13.2 - 13.7 under reasonably light load / light acceleration up to crusing speed.

I woulddn't have thought you'd acheive perfect stoich mixture, even at idle?

Anyhow, car was on the dyno making sure the Nistune I put in was functioning right, and it was only the WOT settings that ended up being tweaked to suit. We'll be looking at the light load stuff when I've got a bit more time.

So far though, I'm getting better economy than the stock ECU which means its all going in the right direction

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  • 2 months later...

Hey Bryce, Jeremy just got one from Ebay which I installed for him. Seems to have stopped his Engine light coming on.

It was a PEC brand which is what his old one was too. You just need to connect it to the stock Plug.

Vulture Motorsport sells them on here. :thumbsup:

Edit* Linkages ---->> http://www.ebay.com....#ht_3034wt_1245

---->> http://www.skylinesa...n-sensor-59-ph/

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  • 4 weeks later...

Oh, thanks very much Johnny, I was informed by my mechanic that there were 2 different sensors. Any idea if it's easy to DIY? Cheers!

Yes mate, very easy to do. Al you need is (from memory) a 21mm spanner. Unbolt old sensor, bolt in new sensor. It is located behind the turbo.

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