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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

No real updates, have been working on this one.

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And melted a hole in number 6 piston in the purple hatch, lift pump failed and leaned out at Heathcote last October. The motor is currently at JPC getting rebuilt.

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  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...

Looking at the cover of the street machine and wondering if that's a different torana.

I thought the same at first, but that cover car is running fats and skinnies so no awd drivetrain i don't think, tough car though.

Then this one is obviously more deserving of being a cover car, for the difficulty of installing the full drive train, but it may not end with the bling factor that street machine publishes,

Edited by DR 32R

Click on the image and go to his photo bucket. Lots of progress shown there. Impressive welding his own retro wheel centres to the rim to match the hub offset.

Craftsman.

  • 2 weeks later...

Got a shock when I saw an LX on the cover of Street Machine with the title 'GODZILLA' - I totally thought it was this build until I flicked through. Looks great but made me more excited about this one. :)

  • 4 months later...

Following this awesome build. You are very talented, The brother in-law and I put a 2jz gte into a lx sedan and that thing was mental with 290kw at the wheels but didnt stop or turn corners very well cant wait to see the finished product

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Update time. So finished building the LX sedan, rebuilt motor back in the purple hatch just waiting to get it tuned, brought a HT kingswood I'm still trying

to work out why I brought it, and gave my HJ panel van some love.

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The HT

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The van, air baged, 9", 4 link, tubbed, injected 308, t700 box.

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So now I'm back into this project, brought some recaro SR2 and started setting up the panels to set the panel gaps and fit the flairs which will need a bit of work.

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  • Like 2

Ended up getting some Achilles 265/35 18 sport 2's to set up the flairs, the front flairs are going to need a lot of work.

I think I will need to cut them and extend the height to allow for when the wheels are turned and suspension travel.

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And why, because voices. :rofl2:

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  • Like 2

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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