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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

No real updates, have been working on this one.

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And melted a hole in number 6 piston in the purple hatch, lift pump failed and leaned out at Heathcote last October. The motor is currently at JPC getting rebuilt.

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  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...

Looking at the cover of the street machine and wondering if that's a different torana.

I thought the same at first, but that cover car is running fats and skinnies so no awd drivetrain i don't think, tough car though.

Then this one is obviously more deserving of being a cover car, for the difficulty of installing the full drive train, but it may not end with the bling factor that street machine publishes,

Edited by DR 32R

Click on the image and go to his photo bucket. Lots of progress shown there. Impressive welding his own retro wheel centres to the rim to match the hub offset.

Craftsman.

  • 2 weeks later...

Got a shock when I saw an LX on the cover of Street Machine with the title 'GODZILLA' - I totally thought it was this build until I flicked through. Looks great but made me more excited about this one. :)

  • 4 months later...

Following this awesome build. You are very talented, The brother in-law and I put a 2jz gte into a lx sedan and that thing was mental with 290kw at the wheels but didnt stop or turn corners very well cant wait to see the finished product

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Update time. So finished building the LX sedan, rebuilt motor back in the purple hatch just waiting to get it tuned, brought a HT kingswood I'm still trying

to work out why I brought it, and gave my HJ panel van some love.

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The HT

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The van, air baged, 9", 4 link, tubbed, injected 308, t700 box.

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So now I'm back into this project, brought some recaro SR2 and started setting up the panels to set the panel gaps and fit the flairs which will need a bit of work.

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  • Like 2

Ended up getting some Achilles 265/35 18 sport 2's to set up the flairs, the front flairs are going to need a lot of work.

I think I will need to cut them and extend the height to allow for when the wheels are turned and suspension travel.

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And why, because voices. :rofl2:

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  • Like 2

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    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
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