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Cage looks great mate,,,now the crappy jobs start.

Some poor bastard now has to sand every tube properly,,,prime them and then final coat them in your prefered colour. I subleted that shit job out to my favorite spray shop,,,he now hates me. I have some great looking tubes but some have dry coats which look bad. No way can you perfectly paint all the tubes to a price.

The real pain in the bum is some poor bastard (probably you) has to get under the car and wire brush all those floor cage welds and seal them or Mr rust will take over.

Cheers

Neil.

Funnily enough, yes it's a bastard of a job. We've used a wire brush drill bit and without that it would have been a nightmare.

I spent a day sanding the front half of the cage and painting it. The old man then finished off the rest.

So there are two coats of grey RustSeal over the whole lot now. RustSeal doesn't have any UV protection, so we either need to clear it, or what the old man wants to

do, get some KR4 made up with UV protection and do the cage and the gruby interior.

I think I prefer the RustSeal grey, it's much lighter than Nissan KR4. But I kinda like it.

Either way it's still not over yet, as under the car needs to be done.

Found this magic paint, RustSeal that you bush on. So no need to mask the whole car up etc etc.

Need more Power ? :rolleyes:

:yes:

You know what it's like, same old story of money. Going external gate, changing the manifold is a big time and money investment.

Unless you have a spare brae manifold I could borrow for a few months :closedeyes:

  • Like 1

:yes:

You know what it's like, same old story of money. Going external gate, changing the manifold is a big time and money investment.

Unless you have a spare brae manifold I could borrow for a few months :closedeyes:

Get abe to modify your stock manifold to run external hate like he done to mine. Cost me around $500 including turbosmart wastegate.post-84279-14274102715192_thumb.jpg

Probably, doesn't make that much power.

The last test it made 292rwkws on 18psi after cooler but showning holding perfect flat on 25psi precooler, That should make towards 350rwkws on pump once a proper cooler is installed.

Yep, I'm following that development at the moment. From memory I'm making 18psi @ ~3400rpm on the current turbo, so extremely responsive.

Maybe we should take the R34 out to Sandown on the 4th of April and do some track testing ;)

I'm running a Greddy LS cooler, seems ok...

Regarding ride-height..

Your car appears to ride significantly lower than the typical 350/340mm axle->arch measurement recommended by numerous people on this forum. At a guess I'd say it's closer to 330mm front and rear?

Based on your experience, how have these geometry changes (lower roll centre) affected handling?

I found at those heights I couldn't get the camber I wanted on the front. That too me is more important than bump and roll.

It sits from 325-335 depending on the track and conditions on the day. Starting point is 5mm front to rear difference though.

It has some bump tie rods in the front, though I couldn't feel the difference.

  • Like 2

Cage is all painted, might need a bit of a tidy up before WTAC so it looks pretty.

Dash is back in, with the cluster. Cleaned up a bit of ugly stereo, turbo timer, alarm system wiring while I was at it. Though the boost controller and shift light still need to be wired back in.

Screen goes back in it today.

D9BEE156-644D-42BE-A761-AD5D6AEDDACA.jpg

  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...

So after the fun day at Sandown there was a list of things to check off, to get the car back performing it's best.

1. check swaybar location

2. fix floor surface under the pedals

3. install roll cage padding

4. diff and gearbox breathers

5. front left steering movement

6. front splitter mounting points

7. fit new harness

post-59171-0-93507700-1429506069_thumb.jpg

So in went the new harness to make the HANS more comfortable.

post-59171-0-63009300-1429506175_thumb.jpg

Added another items to the list, that is give the inside a good clean with de-greaser

post-59171-0-88567300-1429506212_thumb.jpg

The movement in the front left was a loose bolt, with that nipped up movement was gone.

Also backed the swaybar off a hole. See if the front of the car is any different next time.

post-59171-0-16905800-1429506303_thumb.jpg

Added tanks for the diff and gearbox

post-59171-0-60481500-1429506490_thumb.jpg

We've been talking about bonnets for a while and trying to find a cost effective unit off the shelf that is aero and heat effective.

Failing to find one, we dropped two new wheels on the angle grinder and went to it.

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