Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^What he said

Also, high flow cats make a noticeable difference for both power and economy.

Any way you can remove/minimise restrictions will net you a slight increase in power and economy.

Pm35 power is good enough for normal commuting but does not have the torque that the nm35 has.

Also, the 3.5 doesn't really do much below 3000rpm. It is better than the VQ25det down there, but is much more enjoyable between 3500-6000.

As an ex-nm35 owner and current pnm35 owner, there is no chance I would go back... even though I do miss the torque from the turbo.

you will never re-map it for more fuel economy. It runs wideband o2 connection as scotty said. Unless you want the tuner to lean tune it and loose torque to gain economy, it just wont work. Removing the fuel out the top end will give economy, because it runs <10.5:1 AFR in the top end, but if your that concerned about econ, you wont be flogging it.

anyway, its just not economical. So youll need to get over that if you want one, or buy a diesel.

ECU dictates the target AFR, not whether the car has wideband o2 sensors or not.

Remap for a leaner AFR would mean better economy. Nobody said that the tune has to target 14.7:1, especially if you manage a way to get a more complete and efficient combustion process...

ECU dictates the target AFR, not whether the car has wideband o2 sensors or not.

Remap for a leaner AFR would mean better economy. Nobody said that the tune has to target 14.7:1, especially if you manage a way to get a more complete and efficient combustion process...

As Alex mentioned, leaning out the mixture drops the energy available to combust and usually means you need to put your foot down more, just to get the torque required to cruise. I must admit I haven't played around with petrol mixtures a lot, as leaning out 98 is a bad idea generally, but running a huge range of ethanol tunes from 10:1 through to over 20:1 on cruise I now realise near stoich is where it's at. Leaning it out to 15's is going to barely make a difference to the wallet unfortunately. Foot control of the pedal has more chance of fuel savings.

Seriously, they are never going to be lean running cars, they are simply too heavy to compete with modern buzz boxes with their skinny tyres and sub 1 ton weight. Thinking a quick retune will gain noticeable savings... Perhaps if you plan to do massive k's to cover the tune costs. Limiting the throttle to 20% would be a better idea. :P

[minor threadjack]

front wise, anything from 350z/V35 to the end of the Y pipe, rear of that, anything from a V35/G35 sedan

Does this hold true for PNM35s as well or does the AWD get in the way? I've been trying to find something for mine and while I've found the Zee's ones on YAJ they'd cost over $2K landed here in NZ and I'm pretty sure I could get a reasonable custom one built for that price.

[/minor threadjack]

Edited by Hertz Donut

[minor threadjack]

Does this hold true for PNM35s as well or does the AWD get in the way? I've been trying to find something for mine and while I've found the Zee's ones on YAJ they'd cost over $2K landed here in NZ and I'm pretty sure I could get a reasonable custom one built for that price.

[/minor threadjack]

The Y pipe 350z v PNM35 is very different, to get around the transfer case. Thats one difference. The other potential difference is the front shaft with HFCs or test pipes. I just don't know if they will fit or not. Some have massive seperate chambers etc, but the normal single HFC ones should fit ok.

Carbon canister is still there, it just sits horizontally and without the bracket.

V36 exhaust has massive rear mufflers and yes, the driver side one has to be "persuaded" to clear the spare wheel well lol.

Also, Scott had to weld up two additional exhaust mounts to hang the driver side on.

No problem with HFC's from the US. My PNM35 has G35 Berk cats which bolt straight up to the standard exhaust... they also bolt up to my V36 exhaust.

NM35 cat-back exhausts will also bolt up to a series 2 Y-pipe, regardless of whether it is 2WD or AWD.

As Alex said, the only thing that won't fit is the 350z/G35/V35 2WD y-pipe, so if you are looking at a US exhaust make sure it will fit on a 2003-2004 G35x.

Also, forget any coupe exhaust due to the spare wheel well.

If you are looking at headers, be warned that some of the 350z headers will foul on a PNM35 bodywork. You can fit them, but some will be sitting on the bodywork which is not so good considering how much the engine can move...

Zees exhausts cost heaps but seem to be very good quality from everything I have read (sound good too). Probably cheaper to get someone to fabricate up some exhaust mounts to fit a V36 exhaust and purchase a V36 (or G37x compatible) exhaust if you want dual mufflers though ;)

  • 3 years later...

Reviving an old thread here. (trying to find info on using different model cat back exhausts)

I've got a pm35 stagea, wondering if other models like M35 or NM35 aftermarket cat backs will bolt up?

For example:
https://www.rhdjapan.com/fujitsubo-legalis-r-exhaust-muffler-nm35.html

 

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...