Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol @ not liking electrical tape but using it anyway!

Heatshrink is key. So long as you made sure it was long enough to properly cover the connection its all you need. And looks much neater.

Hahaha I just used the electrical tape to tidy the wires up, Not for the actual connections. Heatshrink is the best :laugh:

Hi all, tried this on the weekend and it worked easy as pie. I cut the black wire and just ran a tiny piece of wire (about an inch long) to the screw that holds the solenoid bracket on. Just unscrewed/unbolted that one bolt, wrapped my wire around it once, then tightened it back up.

7 psi all the time now. Definately feels a lot free-er in the low end around 2500. But I have a slight dead spot now about 2100-2300... it's weird. It's definately an overall improvement though.

Here's a tip too: get some of that black 'cloth' tape and wrap both the original wire and the new wire you just ran to the bolt, in that tape. Makes it look as stock as anything!

hey i got a r33 and i think its a non turbo converted to turbo.

i dont have a boost solinoid but i got a boost controller which is hitting 10psi but it sits on 5 untill 4500???

how do i get full boost all the time.

thanks alex

  • 2 weeks later...

did this today, and wrapped my coils, gapped my plugs, drives like a different car.

i have a switch i was gonna install but after hard wireing it for testing. decided there is no need to turn it down again, boost can be right foot regulated, if you have a stock car and havent done it yet, do it now!!!!!!!!!!!

you wont be disapointed.

i actually used a male and female blade plug on each wire, so i can just plug it back in as normal if i need to for any reason

The solenoid is also some sort of a boost controller?

Stock, there is a hose from the intake tube going to the solenoid, and a T'd of hose from the hose between the actuator and intercooler pipe... I removed the piece of hosing from the T-piece, and attached the hose from the intake tube.

When it went to maximum boost, it had some misfiring, like in the coilpack thing.

But I fixed my coilpacks, it never misfires at max boost with the stock hoses... so I think it was 'over boosting'.

Am I right about my theory?

spot on, the solenoid is a boost controller, or more correctly every boost controller uses a solenoid. The solenoid is just a big switch that turns on and off, when it is on it lets air out instead of sending it to the wastegate. WHen it's off the air goes to the wastegate, and when the wastegate sees more pressure than it's spring can handle it opens. they call it "duty cycle" for what percentage of the time its open eg50% duty cycle means 50% open, 50% closed

eg if you have 7psi spring and run the boost control solenoid at 50% you will run roughly 14psi at the motor - 50% of the 14psi goes to the wastegate and 50% gets bled off by the solenoid. That's just an example, the duty cycle settings aren't that easy, they normally need some trial and error.

jaycar have a fully adjustable boost controller that uses the standard solenoid

did the grounding trick last weekend and it's much better. But i crave more, so im thinking im going to install the turbosmart t valve i have at home this weekend and tune to 10-12 psi.

Thanks guys this was top mod!

WHY is your signature only showing the top half of miss Fox?

Does anyone know if the RB25DET retains two stages of boost when you fit a boost controller without doing this mod?

  • 2 weeks later...
WHY is your signature only showing the top half of miss Fox?

Does anyone know if the RB25DET retains two stages of boost when you fit a boost controller without doing this mod?

just click on the pick for the rest of her lol

sorry if im way off the mark, but can't you just run vac line from actuator to manifold pressure?(one of the nipples on ur intake piping) Wont this run actuator pressure? without the need of boost controller? Sorry if this is wrong, just seems easier to do to get 7psi across the rev range?

  • 4 weeks later...
sorry if im way off the mark, but can't you just run vac line from actuator to manifold pressure?(one of the nipples on ur intake piping) Wont this run actuator pressure? without the need of boost controller? Sorry if this is wrong, just seems easier to do to get 7psi across the rev range?

Hello there!

Yes, I think in theory that would be working (connecting red and green in the picture),

however there might be some kind of calibrated bypass in the solenoid so not too much pressure is bled off the actuator.

See this picture: (red=compressed air, green=atmospheric/negative pressure)

blowoff.png

Edited by Torques
sorry if im way off the mark, but can't you just run vac line from actuator to manifold pressure?(one of the nipples on ur intake piping) Wont this run actuator pressure? without the need of boost controller? Sorry if this is wrong, just seems easier to do to get 7psi across the rev range?

You are correct, BUT the R33/34 Actuator is only set to 5psi, and the solenoid bleeds off an extra 2.

So running directly off the actuator would only net you 5psi. Hence why alot of people go for the R32 actuator upgrade. They run a 10psi actuator. Do away with the stock solenoid all together. Win win.

You are correct, BUT the R33/34 Actuator is only set to 5psi, and the solenoid bleeds off an extra 2.

So running directly off the actuator would only net you 5psi. Hence why alot of people go for the R32 actuator upgrade. They run a 10psi actuator. Do away with the stock solenoid all together. Win win.

I thought he meant bleeding the actuator line all the time ... but actually he didn't?

  • 2 months later...

I tried this today, opted to splice the ECU wire and earthed it on the pod filter bracket. Worked a treat, much more power in low-to-mid range with the extra boost, don't have to wait for 4500RPM to get a kick anymore! Got a boost controller on the way too but this will do temporarily :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...