Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

as my r34 25det neo spun a bearing last week, I am going to be building a 25/30.

I will be using the following parts in my build,

JE pistons 86.5mm

Spool RB30det rods

ACL race series bearings

Crank collar for oil pump drive

Nitto Headgasket

Supertech valves, guides, retainers, springs

Camtech 272' cams

Bosch 1000cc injectors

Garrett GT35r .82 rear

6Boost exhaust manifold

Slide Industries Intake plenum

I'm hoping for a reliable power output of around 500-550rwhp.

I am still searching for information on how people have disabled VCT, is it as simple as welding up the hole?

so if anyone has any information please share :)

Thanks

Corey

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429221-rb30det-build/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

With the cams I'll be running I wont be able to run VCT anyway, as for the oil pump ill probably end up with a new standard rb25 pump with a billet gearset :)

thanks guys

Why not change the cams then, if you are only running a GT35R surely tomei type b 260s would be a good match and you can keep the VCT. I am looking into doing something similar. A few people on here seem to be getting great results from the HTA range of turbos in terms of better response and top end power compared to the standard garretts.

My RB25 Neo is running fine at the moment and I am looking at getting one of the HTA GT35Rs and putting that on and then later down the track building up an RB30 bottom end as the 35R might be a bit laggy on the standard 2.5, even being the HTA version. But from what I read the VCT is a good thing so just something to keep in mind, a lot of the guys in the RB30 conversion thread try to keep the VCT.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429221-rb30det-build/#findComment-6961931
Share on other sites

That's exactly the same spec's as my motor

Accept mine has a standard bottom end & made 380kw at 17psi on 98octane.

keep in mind i had 3 broken ring lands at the time so loosing compression in those cylinders.

you should be able to crack way over 400kw easily.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429221-rb30det-build/#findComment-6965323
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

okay guys, well I have received my block and head back from the machinist, I have restricted both oil feeds in the block to 1.5mm feeds, the head has been ported and had a service with the new valves, springs, retainers, and cams. the block was bored to 86.5mm and drilled and tapped for the extra tensioner as well as a crank collar fitted.

I'll add some pics in the next few days :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429221-rb30det-build/#findComment-6976704
Share on other sites

Hi there, it will be used as my daily with the occasional track events, as for engine builders I'm not exactly sure where your from, RIPS always seem to build some porn looking motors but I've gone with a local engine builder so I'm not really familiar with who else is out there, usually a machinist shop is a good place to ask or your local import specialist will have a good idea

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429221-rb30det-build/#findComment-6990751
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
    • More so GReddy oil relocation kits, sandwich plates, etc. all use 10AN fittings. And same, I've only used 10AN and my car sees track work (circuit, doing laps, not 10 sec squirt business).
    • street use or race track, what hose size and why? what factors change with the hose size options ?   see most comon is an10. when you see most oem external coolers are closer to an12? does high volume oil pump like nitto need an12 or 10 be just fine
×
×
  • Create New...