Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^^^

-1

 

I ran a stock internal to 450rwhp for years.  Tracked it, hillclimbed it, drove it on the road. It was fine.  Then I had it rebuilt and it all turned to custard.

 

If you can live with it off the road for 6 months then just use it up with the stock internals.

20 years of unknown history running at 10psi, boost it to 22psi....you better be ready.....it's a gamble doesn't matter which way you look at it. As long as the OP is aware that you are increasing the risk of something going wrong. And it is far cheaper than what you are suggesting and having an engine fail and paying for labour and turbos again.

  • 4 months later...

Couple of quick pictures

IMG_20131206_125718_zpseatj91ja.jpg

IMG_20131204_215010_zpsv7xmlyds.jpg

Plasti-dipped front bumper.

IMG_20131203_134251_zps3v65b5ig.jpg

List of stuff had done by Josh last time:

Bcbr coilovers fitted

Work Meister s1r 28x10 +12 fitted

Archilles 123s 265x35x18

Blitz front pipes

Front and rear camber arms

Rear castor arms

Replaced busted CV

Serviced all the usual suspects

Twin plate coppermix fitted

High flow panel filter

The difference in response the clutch and flywheel is insane feels like a more powerful different car even with no power mods as yet.

Next up is:

Front r34 brembos

Rear castor arms

Braided lines

New pads

Rear sway bar

Front and rear strut braces

With the handling all taken care of I'll start building towards my power figure.

Would like to take this opportunity to thank and recommend josh and the team at galvsport I couldn't be happier.

  • 5 months later...

Next up is:

Front r34 brembos

Look at the Alpha Omega EVO brembo brake upgrade with 350mm discs, the bolts for the 34 brembos are 14mm against 12mm for the 32 ones so they don't just bolt on

^^ This!

If you want Brembo's, get a set of R32 GTR V-Spec / V-Spec II or R33 GTR calipers as they will be a straight fit and bolt on.

You will have to custom make, the R34 GTR Brembo's fit.

The GTR Brembo's are good for street and light / occasional track work but if you want to seriously track your car, look into a set of aftermarket race caliper setup.

Copy Paste from another forum.

Right here is the full list of work done this round anyway,

Engine :

Garrett 9-s
Mines Ceramic Coated Dump Pipes
Vipec V88 ecu
Blitz radiator
HKS cam gears
Tomei Type B 260/260 9.15 pon cams
DW1200 injectors
Splitfire Coilpacks
Walbro 465 E85 pump
Rips Sump Kit
Oil pump Billet gears sourced locally
ATI 1000hp harmonic balancer
Major service


Misc:
Project MU pads up front
Valley and Cam covers painted wrinkle black
Plenum soda blasted
New R34 valley emblem
Cusco brake cylinder brace
Removed clutch vacuum assist lines
Lifted car 20-30mm
New heater hoses/gaskets bolts and various other parts you would expect
Run new wiring relay to pump as stock had a current drop


Thats all the major stuff, the budget was added to significantly as decided to take the advice of josh and many of you guys here in regards to tackling the oiling issues early, sump, pump gears and harmonic balancer were extras that required engine out, it worked out fine in the end since reduced a little labour in other areas and gave me the chance to soda blast the horrible flaky intake plenum paint and paint the valley/cam covers.

Only spoke briefly to the tuner (Sean at ASG) but was as you would expect, made 470hp and turbos ran out of breath in top end which suits me fine when the original build brief was formed. Aimed for response and midrange, from the look of the graph and the very short spin I took in it today its within those parameters.

Still cruises around in traffic perfectly happily off boost and clutch feel is only slightly heavier so still very easy to daily drive. I am in love with the new idle/exhaust note though, good amount of volume without being ridiculous.

Will post the Dyno results when I get them and after have a debrief with Josh as to how it all went as he was busy today when I took it for a quick test.

Plans for future are for one to enjoy it and get it onto some track days to stretch its legs and learn to drive it but the main priority is to get the exterior to immaculate, so ill find some nismo rear pods, fix a few tiny dents and do a few small things.

Still smiling ear to ear haha

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

1EFJ316%203_zpshifb60c7.jpg

Here's the dyno.

Full boost a little later than had hoped but tuner did say could move curve a bit so somewhere down the line may look at trying to get 18psi by 4k.

Stoked with power figure though.

Edited by Ambi3nce
  • 5 months later...

Quick update, went in for retune to swing cams to bring boost on earlier.

Dialed in 20psi over previous 18psi. Gained 2HP, 30+nm torque and boost is on almost 700rpm earlier. Very happy with how it is now, I would not have though that 500-700rpm in boost earlier would make such a difference, but it feels night and day.

Also got launch control set up for vipec so I can not fail miserably at the drags when I eventually get down,

IMG_20141128_201521_zpsk4ib5kz_edit_1417

Nice and strong. Must be nice to drive on the street and should be a blast on the track. Good stuff mate.

Yeah the retune made a huge difference, I did not think 700rpm would feel so different but it so much better on the street, havn't had a chance to track it yet. Blew a cooler pipe today for first time so may have to start swapping out some old pipes for newer ones/clamps.

Neat and tidy build congrats and enjoy.

Thanks man, that is the plan. Next break from work will get some small tidy up jobs done, tints to try protect the interior from the ridiculous heat here and getting some small dents removed.

700 rpm is night and day. 200 rpm is heaps!!!

Area under the curve just makes the car so much nicer to drive!

Nice build thread mate. Car looks clean, the wheels suit perfect! Awesome power delviery too.

What's the next plans for the car?

Thanks man,

Next is a few small things, tint, few small dents removed, basically get it as good as I can short of a respray.

Need to buy and install a defi 3 gauge cluster as I want oil/coolant temp and boost pressure which exceeds stock gauge.

Also will be replacing the Gsensor with a digital unit as mine is starting to read a bit off and is throwing the torque to the front at strange times.

700 rpm is night and day. 200 rpm is heaps!!!

Area under the curve just makes the car so much nicer to drive!

Yeah Its so much more fun to drive now, feels alot quicker too

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...