Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well BOLLOCKS.

Went out and got the NGK/NTK OZA395-E2 part and i can 100% say the plugs DO NOT FIT. Now I have to go return it and I'm back to square one re: the right sensor for the S2 Stagea. :D

If the sensor is the same (anyone?) I might just have to crimp the wires with the exisiting plug. Both have 2 black and 1 white wire so looks easy enough. Apart from plug, can anyone tell me if OZA395-E2 is alright for RB25DET NEO engines?

EDIT: Well, swapped the plugs and replaced with said part, it fits. Crimping wasn't too bad, but I hope it doesn't matter which white wire was connected back!

Edited by webng
  • 1 month later...
cant be bothered reading all of the pages...changed o2 plug by NTK for R32 GTR, front pipe one is a straight fit, the rears have to be cut as plugs are different.

Will post up part numbers got mine for $75 each

Global Auto Spares Part # 351-0019

NTK Part# KBA 16693

Sensor Type 0TD2F-2B

Needs a 17mm Spanner

But f**k me can someone help me with the R33 GTR part number?

I assume I have R33 ones in my bitch because it needs a 19mm

R33 GTR sensor (front at least) is a Bosch A24-621 115 68290

Global Auto Spares Part Number 351-0187

Same sensor for the rear, only lead length and plug differs.

Needs a 22mm spanner

18mm Thread - 3 wire Oval plug on a short lead - Titania

http://members.pcug.org.au/~jdeakins/facts.html helped me find what I needed

Global Auto Spares on the coast imports them

Chris Jeffis

0755310055

[email protected]

Hope this helps some people

  • 1 month later...

Hi Guys,

We are currently offer the NTK oxygen sensors for the R32 GTS-t/GTS-4 & R33 GTS25-t for $77 + delivery. If anyone is interested simply click the link below for transaction instructions:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t135194.html

Regards,

Andrew Sullivan

Kudos Motorsports

  • 2 weeks later...

its dead if voltage isnt moving after warming up car (normally it starts 0.3v, then after about a minute will start climbing upwards, then by around 0.9v and 5 minutes later car should be at operating temp so it will start swinging back/forth between 0.1/0.9v when car under light load/cruising).

normally when they are dead they sit either 0v or around 0.3v and dont move.

  • 4 months later...

to test the o2 meter. swich to diagnostic mode 2 and you will see the engine check light go on and off if you rev and hold your engine at 1500 rpm.

something that will help s2 owners

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...S2-t210274.html

Edited by xr8eater
  • 3 weeks later...

I don't mean to be a slacker, but I cbf reading through 26 pages to see if anyone has done this on their GTR.

What are the part number(s) for GTR's and regarding the extremely tight space, what's the best way to do it? (ie: tools, do it yourself?)

Thanks in advance.

FVO is right. 26 pages is not going to help anyone.

I've chopped 140 posts out tonight. I'll try and knock a few more later this week. Once we've whittled it down to something manageable, I'd really love a keen SAUer to cut and shut the remaining info into something useable we can put into a new thread.

Full credit will go to the guy or girl that does the editing. We'll need something with headings, either by car or by something like "Part Number, Fitting, Sellers" or something like that. I'll leave it with you.

But yes, FVO is right.

Thanks Cowie165, I thought I was gonna get hammered for not reading the thread. If it hasn't yet been done on a GTR I am more than happy to be the first to write up a GTR tutorial considering how bad my fuel consumption is.

What I need at the moment (if anyone knows) are the part numbers for the GTR. They may be the same as the GTS-T, but I wanna be sure. Other than that, I wanna make sure that if I volunteer to do a tutorial on my car for the GTR that someone else won't get in before me after I took the time to take pics and so forth.

Hey no problem. I've gone through the first couple of pages tonight: R32 GTR has two different sensors. They aren't compatible with the EL Falcon and are different to RB26 sensors in the R33 and R34. There might have been some part numbers but it was bit of a blur. I was pretty much deleting any post that didn't offer some meaningful info, and saw LOTS of part numbers thrown around. Perhaps check out the first few pages and see how you go.

btw, if you aren't sure about your O2 sensor, I highly recommend borrowing a consult cable from a mate or even going down to Mr Nissan. It is VERY easy to diagnose the fault with OBD.

Alternatively, there was a link on page 2 or 3 (?) that apparently shows you how to check it with a multimeter. I think you just need to connect to the signal wire, and on a hot sensor you should see voltage steadily bounce between 0.4 and 0.8V. Don't quote me on the voltages though as I haven't checked in a while. The info is in the RB20/25/26 engine workshop manual supplement.

Thanks for all the info.

I'll first try to check if the 02's are in fact faulty and do a little write-up on how to check them with a multimeter and what should be expected voltage wise. Then I'm gonna find out what part number they are and if they are compatible with any other vehicle.

Thanks again for the heads up, much appreciated.

I tried to get the info together a while back. I put it in http://members.pcug.org.au/~jdeakins/facts.html

It's obviously incomplete. Most of it came from an old copy of the FAST database someone had. I updated one or two entries after asking the local Nissan dealer for info from his up-to-date FAST database, but that's all the time he could spare. I talked to NTK in Melbourne and found them to be very helpful. Only thing is, I suspect they have the part numbers for the front and back sensors R32 GTR swapped. Either that, or someone in Japan swapped mine. From memory, NTK only have one of the two R32 GTR sensors available - but that was a year or so ago, the last time I checked.

Far out James, looks like we just found our O2 sensor reference page! Nice work there. Would you mind if we reproduced the info here as a sticky? To make sure your efforts are recognised, you could create the thread and I'll go sticky it?

Funnily enough, I don't remember deleting any of your posts last night because they all had good stuff in them! :D

I'm very happy to move the table to Skylines Australia. It could be good for forum membership too - if I leave the table as it is on my site I can advise those who find it using Google etc to join SAU for an updated table.

Before I went back to study I thought this site was looking at hosting some pages, and starting a wiki. I can't see any reference to them on the front page, so I guess they both fell through. Do you have any suggestions on the best way to pass the table over to SAU so that members can add to the table when they find information? If it's a stickied posting we could end up with 26 pages of comments to it because no-one can edit the table in the lead posting. Or am I misunderstanding sticky postings?

Ok we're now another 60 posts lighter.

For the final sticky, it looks like we'll need:

Part Numbers (James has pretty much covered this)

How to test your O2 sensor (with Consult or PFC)

How to change your O2 sensor

How to reset your ECU

Any other headings? We can prob leave crimping and wiring for howstuffworks.com

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...