Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its interesting they claim you dont need a crank collar with them. I wonder how they came to that conclusion? Im sure there a heaps of guys that have killed oil pumps due to high revs would disagree with them. Unless they have somehow moved to gears back to allow more engagement onto the crank, but I didnt think that was possible.

Its interesting they claim you dont need a crank collar with them. I wonder how they came to that conclusion? Im sure there a heaps of guys that have killed oil pumps due to high revs would disagree with them. Unless they have somehow moved to gears back to allow more engagement onto the crank, but I didnt think that was possible.

So a crank collar is not the same result as an rb26dett from an r34?

Without getting into a massive oil pump failure related issues thread.
The longer snout on a crank was still a bit of a band aid, the clearance to the drive was a bigger issue. This could be what they have focused on.

Well whoopdef**kindoo, Now go and find a reliable high horsepower rb pump for 80 bucks and the world will beat a path to your door.

My point is that 7.5x the price for a set of gears seems a little much. If you have ever approached a machinist about getting some parts CNC'd you would know $600 for a pair of gears is pretty hefty.

I appreciate that its their IP and they can charge whatever they want, but you did post it in a public forum in effort to spark opinionated discussion. Such is my opinion, try not to loose too much sleep over it.

My point is that 7.5x the price for a set of gears seems a little much. If you have ever approached a machinist about getting some parts CNC'd you would know $600 for a pair of gears is pretty hefty.

I appreciate that its their IP and they can charge whatever they want, but you did post it in a public forum in effort to spark opinionated discussion. Such is my opinion, try not to loose too much sleep over it.

As the "whoopdedoo suggests, My care (loss of sleep" factor is very low indeed, I am not promoting this product at all. As the thread title says, it looks promising given the results in other makes using this oil pump design, namely the yota J engines.

I would never ever trust billet gears.

After researching and buying a set of them (reimax) and seeing how much rediculous amount of clearance there was to the crank collar I onsold them and bought a Nitto collar and pump.

The spool gears are utter shit with poor design flaws.

I would never ever trust billet gears.

After researching and buying a set of them (reimax) and seeing how much rediculous amount of clearance there was to the crank collar I onsold them and bought a Nitto collar and pump.

The spool gears are utter shit with poor design flaws.

Aren't the nitto pump gears a billet gear?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
×
×
  • Create New...