Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How does a 300ZX Twin Turbo compare to a R33 GTS-T? Considering wether its worth it to buy and modify it to hit the 300kw's.. If the RB30/25 is a torque monster can the 300zx be similar with similar, what im after is a fairly cheap reliable 300kw for the street and thinking of doing Injectors,computer,Eflex and 18psi on stock turbo's to get close to 300kw if I bought one.. At this power level with the R33 it was frying second gear and a handful, could I expect the same with a 300zx??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432767-300zx-tt-potential/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok well assuming it has good turbo's and we don't need to remove the engine, what potential does it have with ( stock turbo's apparently are garrett) to make over 250kw with E85 and say 18psi??

would it be a push in the seat experience or lacking????

There has been a few good ones in magazines over the years, one owner took out the intercoolers and used water injection to cool the intake charge

Got rid of the intercooler piping and really neatened up the bay no end

massive money and effort to modify with lots of problems and troubleshooting along the way.

does it have a computer or FMIC yet? turbo back exhaust etc etc? boost control? injectors for the juice too?

otherwise they are an old car like RB's so also consider the usual suspects of fuel pump

Also they suffer from a lot of wiring faults and oil leaks due to the restricted space in the engine bay often meaning required maintenance of require things doesn't get done as too expensive/hard to work on. Also that tight fit means higher under-bonnet temps.

Any medium to major work is the standard 'engine out' too.

I loved the look and the potential performance of them and always wanted one. Did my research, decided against and here I am a happy RB owner :)

ah good old fashioned internet advise from non owners, they're as reliable as any other 20 year old car, it just comes down to making sure you do the proper maintenance. Make sure the cooling system is in good working order & don't skip fluid/filter changes, make sure the 100k km service is done & worth doing a plenum pull. Simple common sense stuff.

Jump onto aus300zx.com & have a bit of a read up there for all your answers

LOL, this is gold.

You don't have to take the engine out to work on them, if you want to change the turbo's then sure, the engine coming out is the easiest way, but apart from that they're no different to any other V6.

I pulled the head off a kia sorento recently and there's no more room in one of those...

Mine has 360 RWKW and I daily it. It's a slicktop 2 seater version so it's lighter and shorter than the others. It's actually smaller than a 180sx or a skyline. They are a FANTASTIC drivers car. They handle well and the build quality surpasses that of other nissans of the same vintage (not that that's really important when buying a sports car)...

Here's mine:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/431749-360rwkw480-rwhp-z32-slicktop/

ok well assuming it has good turbo's and we don't need to remove the engine, what potential does it have with ( stock turbo's apparently are garrett) to make over 250kw with E85 and say 18psi??

would it be a push in the seat experience or lacking????

As far as potential, this is my car on low boost (only 16 PSI) and taking it very easy on the 1-2 change and easy on the throttle until 100kmh otherwise I just get too much wheel spin. It's a lot quicker on 22 psi and if I bury my foot, the needle just goes spastic.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=379020305557294&set=vb.100003479824447&type=3&theater

As far as potential, this is my car on low boost (only 16 PSI) and taking it very easy on the 1-2 change and easy on the throttle until 100kmh otherwise I just get too much wheel spin. It's a lot quicker on 22 psi and if I bury my foot, the needle just goes spastic.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=379020305557294&set=vb.100003479824447&type=3&theater

Nice results and looks very stock under the bonnet too, ive been in a NA and a couple of twin turbo's and they are very solid on the road compared to my gtst and feel like they're a quality vehicle. Still look pretty modern too and with those extra cubes would be good off boost with E85.

ah good old fashioned internet advise from non owners, they're as reliable as any other 20 year old car, it just comes down to making sure you do the proper maintenance. Make sure the cooling system is in good working order & don't skip fluid/filter changes, make sure the 100k km service is done & worth doing a plenum pull. Simple common sense stuff.

Jump onto aus300zx.com & have a bit of a read up there for all your answers

Yeah id be looking for a mature owner with good service history for sure, nice looking car for 20years old too

This thread is full of BS, crap they read on the net hahaha. AngryRB, a good condition stock turbo Z32 can make in excess of 250rwkw on 16PSI with 98 octane, mod for mod a ZX will DESTROY a GTSt, not even kidding. I know this as my family has owned and i have driven many variants of BOTH. No bias here, just plain facts, My NA ZX is on par with a stock/mild GTSt. Fair few guys are in the 11's on stock turbos with Z32's, including one here in aus doing 11.50's @ 117MPH on 98octane. Few in the US are doing 11.30's/11.40's at 121-124MPH with E85.

The potential is there, just the bad rep from lemons that haven't been taken care of stops people from buying them.

Edited by Super Drager

Just remember when looking at a 300zx is 90% of them have seeious electrical demons and most of the water hoses are perished and require replacing. They are also very light in the rear and have trouble with traction at standard power levels.

Also they are harder to work on then a gtst (won't say skyline cause the Gtr is a pain) and good ones may be harder to find

Im getting used to PITA setup's, the top feed rail on gtst is something id like to forget in future...

Just throwing idea's up at the moment, also considering a Toyota Prado 3.4L petrol for something different, looking for best bang for buck for under $10k..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know if you can disassemble the thing and put it backwards for different ramp rates. They're both "2 ways" or both "1.5 ways" because well, 2 ways and 1.5 ways are the same 'thing' I do not know for sure, but I believe the 38420-RSS15-B5 is the 1 way, and 38420-RSS20-B5 is the two way. In other words, I predict Nissan considers this: to be a 1.5 way. No idea what actually happens when it arrives/you disassemble it. It would be an excellent question to ask Nismo directly! I somehow doubt you will get an answer though, I feel you would be the first person to document what you encounter when you open the box and the internet would be grateful.
    • I'm going to slap an old nismo logo sticker on my spare one and sell it to the land of the free for a thousand bucks
    • lol, probably should have read further!
    • Well - they have arrived.  And they are easy on the eye to put it mildly... These only have three bolts - but for a start there is a key that fits with vacuum like precision..  And as you can see by my ruler, the interface is large..   I listened to a podcast on HP Academy about Dan (KiwiCNC) and I'm more than comfortable he knows what he is doing. R35 Bearing assembly should arrive later today so can mock that up for a look. Can't wait to get these on and get some brake pressure logging too. IMG_3860.MP4
    • I would be very confident that they are the same parts (the 2 different SKUs). It seems very clear that you can drop the cam in the 2-way opening, or in the other opening. If you arrange it in the other opening in the same way that you see any other 1-way diff, ie, with the flat of the cam up against the 1° side of the opening, then it would work as a 1-way. It can only spread the ramps when driving forwards - cannot spread the ramps on overrun. It would then appear obvious that if you put the cam into the opening "backwards", that you would get the angled flats of the cam working onto the "points" of the 1° side of the opening, which would give you ramp spread in both loading directions. I do wonder if the forward direction of the 1.5-way config is equivalent to the forward direction of the 2-way, seeing as the cams are flipped and the angled surfaces on those would need to be the same on each side - AND - clearly when installed in either the 2-way or 1-1ay configuration they are not intended to work exactly the same (the ramp angles on the 2-way are 10° different between forward and backward, and the ramp doesn't exist in the 1-way config). 'twere me, I think I would rather actually have a set of rings that offered the 2-way with two different sets of ramp angles, say the 55/45 of the existing design and maybe a 45/37.5 combo for a less aggressive effect), AND another set of rings with a dedicated 1.5-way opening and a dedicated 1-way opening. The 1.5-way opening would actually have the steeper angle on the overdrive side that causes it to be less pushy than the forward drive angle, like you see in many other diffs. But really - if this Nismo thing is thought out properly and all those surfaces work on each other the way that they need to, who am I to argue?
×
×
  • Create New...