Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My 32 is painted gold (bought like that) and it looks like a good paint job, other than they didn't tape it up very good. (A lot of spray) Whoever looked after the paintwork did a really bad job... If it ever was looked after. I'm using it as my test to cut & polish, but will be going through a couple of YouTube vids so I'm not completely hopeless. I'll chuck some before & after pics WHEN I do the deed. Only doing this because I will be getting a respray in the future.. Still tossing up between a darker gold or white..

Unfortunately this happens a lot where people just take a cut and polish to fix any paint issue and it ends up ruining your paint. Hope all goes well because sometimes a cut and polish is a must and seal with wax. If you get to that stage expect to wax it every 2 weeks or so.

Unfortunately this happens a lot where people just take a cut and polish to fix any paint issue and it ends up ruining your paint. Hope all goes well because sometimes a cut and polish is a must and seal with wax. If you get to that stage expect to wax it every 2 weeks or so.

Haha, yeah.. I'm pretty sure I will end up making it look worse :P

But, half of the paint has already been ground away to get rid of the rust :D

The issue with most detailing places is the firs thing they do is take a mild cut and polish to your car. RUINS your paint.

...or I recommend taking the time out and doing it yourself.

My detailer has a "Paint Thickness Gauge" which tells several stories - before even touching the car.

* How much paint he has to work with - or with the N1, not to work with.

* With sun damaged panels (horizontal ones), more latitude can be had with cut 'n polish within certain micron tolerances

* Panels which have been repainted will give off thicker readings

* Nicki (- sounds better than bog) can be detected in vulnerable spots

My detailer has a "Paint Thickness Gauge" which tells several stories - before even touching the car.

* How much paint he has to work with - or with the N1, not to work with.

* With sun damaged panels (horizontal ones), more latitude can be had with cut 'n polish within certain micron tolerances

* Panels which have been repainted will give off thicker readings

* Nicki (- sounds better than bog) can be detected in vulnerable spots

If you don't mind giving a ballpark figure, how much does it cost for someone to give the car that much attention to detail etc? Just curious really.

Eugene Chan charged me $400 (mates rates) for the two day weekend Jeremy.

EugeneDetail14.jpg

EugeneDetail6.jpg

EugeneDetail7.jpg

EugeneDetail13.jpg

EugeneDetail16.jpg

EugeneDetail22.jpg

Typical process was...

Wash > Clay Bar using Lubricant > Polish (Menzerna brand) 2x with different grade pads > Sealant (Optima brand) applied > Cure overnight > Wax (Meguiar's or Menzerna brand) > Buff

Eugene (aka JDM_Performance here on SAU) learned from Polich Doc in Melbourne. Eugene detailed my 3x R34 GT-Rs

#1 R34 GT-R Black won the Concours Skaife award at the R34 GT-R 10th Anniv

#2 R34 GT-R Bayside Blue (above) wasn't owned for very long before being forced to choose, upon the availability of an N1 - paint thickness on every panel was about 320 microns

#3 R34 GT-R White N1 in PI Magazine #161 - paint thickness on every panel was consistently about 90 microns

Yup, very happy with Eugene - but pretty far away from you guys I'm afraid.

  • Like 1

Yes it's impressive.

It won't work unless the panel is made of metal.

C/F, Nicki or rust with give lousy readings.

The Detailer has to love what he does - with a passion!

Eugene has that passion - yet he hates gardening.

I love gardening - but but hate detailing unless I'm totally in the mood and begin by 7am , Lol

Yes it's impressive.

It won't work unless the panel is made of metal.

C/F, Nicki or rust with give lousy readings.

The Detailer has to love what he does - with a passion!

Eugene has that passion - yet he hates gardening.

I love gardening - but but hate detailing unless I'm totally in the mood and begin by 7am , Lol

Thanks for the info Terry. Amazing job done on an amazing car. It's almost worth driving down to Sydney and then glad wrapping it for the trip home haha :P

If you let him detail your N1, then Eugene must be good.

Cheers for sharing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...