Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I like where you are going there Mick, serious potential for you there - you could use RB26 pistons and short rods (so it will sound awesome) to make a 1.7litre... put a T66 on it with a 2" exhaust and get 50psi by 3000rpm. Will be tough!

  • Like 1

BAAAAAAHAHAHAHA! :D Just wondering if the T66 might surge making 50psi @ 3000? Maybe I should put a bigger exhaust on to increase lag say something silly like a 3.5" system and bring the turbo on around 1000rpm later? ;)

I like where you are going there Mick, serious potential for you there - you could use RB26 pistons and short rods (so it will sound awesome) to make a 1.7litre... put a T66 on it with a 2" exhaust and get 50psi by 3000rpm. Will be tough!

Lol as long as your car "sounds fast" the chequered flags yours!

I am never going to race so i give no farks about about chequered flags. Re some good tunes every time I drive the car...well I would take this sound any day I drove my car...who cares if its slow

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzvMQdxUPsM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=V667PHZwaYI#t=815

Ask Gerg_31 (I think that's his name) I would bet that whilst his non turbo'd, open throttle bodied RB26 engines he was playing with would have made only average power, they would sound much like the amazing Hakosuka with the right exhaust. Turbo's are an unfortunate muffler of raw engine sound. They take the individual pulsations out to a large degree.

There is some merit to the "sounds better goes better" ideology. I put an exhaust on my VL when I was 19, probably made zero more power but f#$k I felt fast! I'll trade in my noise for power anyday however. Show with no go only tingles in your balls for so long....

I am never going to race so i give no farks about about chequered flags. Re some good tunes every time I drive the car...well I would take this sound any day I drove my car...who cares if its slow

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzvMQdxUPsM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=V667PHZwaYI#t=815

Now thats what i am talking about. what a sound, sheer perfection

This is why I love my slow alfa so much.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2YIRhzKDamg

Edited by XGTRX

500-1000awkw

that's also a huge range! It really comes down to what engine characteristics you are chasing. for a street car more torque pretty much always makes a quicker nicer to drive car. I know I rather a 300kw rb2530 than rb25 due to the far improved driveability. ( and that's why I went for a 30 bottom end) Edited by superben

What i was trying to say is that id rather keep the 26 and spend the cash on other areas of the car. Id be quiet happy with 300-400kw on a 26. Then again some might not comes down to personal choice i guess. I wouldnt change the 26 if i was going with twins or a average to decent sized single.

I'm with superben. Displacement adds drivability.

Having said that I have sacrificed some low end torque with my new setup for the sake of having a nice sound to listen to, and gone for some big cams and a massively high flowing exhaust.

I think many of you focus too much on which rod ratio is better and are afraid to go much shorter than stock. In small piston engines like the RB's it doesn't really make a lot of difference with reliability/longevity of the motor. Its not as though the engine is throwing around 4" bore pistons. The SR23 engines with 137/91 = 1.5, with a 89mm more is a good example.

There are advantages for the short rod ratio engine in a street car too. The main one that comes to mind is that a radically ported head will work well at lower engine speeds, due to increased piston speeds and higher vacuum pull. This is part of the reason Piggaz's combination works so well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...